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I finally got out to my other garage and took pictures. It's hard to see but there's a Fairlady Z dash, NOS frame rails, NOS quarters, and other NOS metal, early hatches, early steering wheels, E31 heads, a couple turbo engines, 5 speeds, diffs, etc. The black Z was the first car I ever owned and white Z is a 69 Z.

taken with a dash cam no doubt.... Sorry...

Here are some of the parts in the basement. Nice doors, NOS dash, steering wheels, fresh P90A, rebuilt SUs for an L4, etc.

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There's room in a Mustang for the Nissan L6. The turbo engines can make a lot of power.

Also could have been used for fog lights if they were installed at some point in time. I added them to my car in the early days and used a switch pretty much in that same location to trigger a relay which energized the lights. I agree that tracing the wire would provide a lot more information. Mike.

+1 for antenna

I agree that the switch is probably added on by a previous owner. It's not an uncommon thing to happen. You will have to trace the wire from the switch to wherever it ends up. There are some really good electrical guys on here, I'm not one of them, that might be able to help you. I'm sure they will chime in soon. Pictures will help a lot.

Yup. Glutton for punishment.

http://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/5507031

you say that now.

Its all on the NGK website dude: https://www.google.ca/search?q=fake+site:www.ngk-sparkplugs.jp&num=100&newwindow=1&tbm=isch&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjcvZ7x56zTAhWFilQKHejnBYQQ_AUICCgB&biw=2049&bih=1008&dpr=0.67 On their top page: http://www.ngk-sparkplugs.jp/english/index.html Who buys their plugs on Alibaba? I triple dog dare anyone.

Count me among the group that thinks the price is low. I still have a Craigslist alert for Z cars in my area (which isn't great for selling prices, obviously) and follow BaT pretty closely. Other than "trending up," it's hard to get a really good sense on the market, but maybe the most reliable indicator for pricing that I've noticed is condition. Cars in very good or better shape go for big (for Z car) money: $20-30k+; cars that need a bit of work tend to go for far less. Originality doesn't seem to be a major factor in prices; neither does the year. My working theory is that Z cars don't yet have the same kind of intrinsic value as a collectible item that a lot of the other classic cars have. I think for many people, the value is in how "cool" they are. So knowing that you're looking at a minimum of $10-15k to do a very light restoration and body/paint on a "fair" car that costs ~$10k, it makes a ton of sense to just buy the finished product and save the trouble (and probably some money).

I agree with you Greg. It's, for the most part, in really good shape and should bring more than the asking price. JMO

first off, i would like to thank you all for the help. the problem is solved!!!!!!!!! it turns out the plugs i put in (NGK BPR6EGP) are designed for a high energy ignition. they have a very fine pointed center wire. basically, the pertronix and flame thrower dont put out enough energy to fire these plugs consistently. i switched to the NGK BPR6ES-11, and i have fire in every hole and the back fire is gone. something so simple............

Beautiful photos. I was in the area once and tried to make it to the top of Pike's Peak in a rental car. It was raining at the bottom, and the ranger stopped us about 3/4 of the way to the top because it was blizzard conditions and road was closed because the snow plow slid off the side of the road. Something about the plow was trying to clear the avalanche? The thing was... They had just closed the road about a half hour before, and those who were already at the top were stuck there. Nobody up, and nobody down! I was with SWMBO, and I cannot imagine what would have happened if we were some of those stuck at the top... I'd still be hearing about it! She was already nervous about the roads and wanted to turn around. I wanted to get to the top and pressed on. If we would gotten stuck at the top, it would not have been pretty!

The driver side quarter is by far the worst of the bodywork to do. Once I get it structurally close to factory, I will leave the final bodywork to the hi build phase. The fibreglas is just so much stronger for this kind of large fill work.

I had a feeling this was a global issue. So many cars have no quarter panel ridge and I wasn't sure if people were ADDING it in when doing repairs or REMOVING it with repairs. Good to know it is SUPPOSED to be there. I will do my best to make a subtle ridge appear in the final work.

And more paint shop pictures. Looks like we are going down to bare metal on the hood. Looks like the hood has been orange, yellow and red in a previous life.