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I don’t believe replacement screws are available, nor do I think they ever were. The parts manual only lists the left and right complete vent assemblies and the nuts. One of the rear bolts in my left louver let go, and I glued it back in place using a small aluminum plate to help secure it. That repair was done in November 2011 and is still holding up well. You’ll likely need to follow Patcon’s advice: file down a hex-head bolt or similar to the correct size and secure it using a suitable epoxy resin. Here are some photos of my repair back in 2011

Looks like a carriage bolt that’s been ground down to the shape you have removed.

You are over tightening them IMO. The suspension needs to be under load before tightening them. Meaning the wheels need to be on a block to elevate the car. Then tighten the bolt until the rubber expands a bit over the washer. Personally I’ve never torqued these. Again my opinion.

I said rough but should have said "stiffer". Like the seller did. ". No rattles or squeaks in the chassis, suspension is stiffer than factory but not overly," But, the seller has apparently not gone the urethane bushing route, so that will keep a soft ride. Looks like a nice car. "All rubber bushings, tie-rods, ball joints, transmission and differential mounts,"

First and foremost, WELCOME TO THE GROUP!!! Stick around long enough and you will find us a positive and supportive bunch, probably the best on the web. If your heart is set on a 240Z, expect to pay a premium price for a solid and well-sorted car. The one in your link seems to be very well done. Any 240Z under $15k is likely to be a project car to some degree and may require a serious commitment to complete it. If you are open to other model S30's, look into the more available 280Z's.

The leak has to be fixed first. A good shop will know how to do that, and bleed the brakes. Shouldn't really be speculating until those two things happen. If the rear brake shoes aren't adjusted correctly the piston in the MC can bottom out before the shoes make contact with the drums.

"T" bolt? I would probably make one out of the correct sized bolt

Thank you Alan! Also thank you for asking about the rear differential, looks like the car in question has an R160, that is why I felt the portion of the exposed spline something bigger than 35mm. Now I feel better. Kats

Looks like I'm out of touch with Z Club technology. It posted before I said anything. Soooo, my wonderful little 240 that I restored from the ground up, and only a couple years ago won a first-in-class at a Datsun show has a problem. For embarrassing reasons I won't discuss now it has a substantial dent in the roof. Most of the driver's side, and as much as 2 inches (5 cm) deep. The body shop that my insurer uses declined the job. The manager of body shop that painted it 8-9 years ago didn't think his guys had the necessary skill set. I finally went to a shop recommended by a friend in the local vintage auto club. Yes, we can do that! But after a month, they still haven't. My minimal understanding of dents is that they stretch the metal. Therefore I have a greater area of roof metal than I used to. If they simply pound the dent out from the underside, the dent will be replaced by a bulge. I have heard from other sources that there are people who by using heat, cold, and fine touch are able to restore the original shape. Other options? Cut the roof panel off a beyond-help rust bucket and weld it in place of what is there now? Would Nissan/Datsun be able to replicate the roof? I'm in a quandry. Would appreciate hearing anyone's thoughts. Richard