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Guess I'll put it here as this is, at least to this old buzzard, the path of least resistance After almost 190,000 miles and a bit of bearing noise I decided to give the 5 speed in my 78 280 the business and @ the same time address all of the related issues. At the risk of glazing the eyes of my audience I promise to be brief. I had the rear engine plate powder coated - yes, I know it was clear zinc plated from the factory but I wanted to see what my very excellent powder coater could do and the results are very satisfactory - removed 4 pounds from the stock 24 pound flywheel, had the now lightened flywheel balanced along with a new pressure plate, replaced the rear engine seal, clutch assy - used the Exedy set for probably the 100th + time in my career - flywheel and pressure plate fasteners, ALL of the trans bearings, 2nd and 3rd gear syncros, seals and gasket and had all of the related fasteners, etc. zinc replated. This past Sat I drove the 350 mile round trip to Import Carlisle - touched 100 MPH for a couple of seconds - without a hint of concern. I got those trans parts I could from Nissan - yes, I know there are some cheaper alternatives but I like the guys at my fav dealer. Those bearings that are NLA from Nissan I got from a company in Japan, Amayma. They, Amayma, provide excellent service and excellent prices for parts in the original Nissan packaging. Way back in 1971 the dealer I was working for sent me to Datsun trans school. The school held @ Datsun eastern headquarters in Secaucus, NJ. The dealer provided me with a NEW, just off the boat, 510 2 door for transportation. Yes, a new 510 2 door was capable of an indicated 100+. We were provided lunch at what was, I'm confident, a mob owned restaurant. Our instructor told us we could order ANYTHING on the menu but if we wanted lobster we had to give one day notice. Those were the days.

Found it. SOB. It was with the extra freeze plugs I have. Fun times! Lol. Thank you for the replies. And yes, turning the pump CCW. Gonna shoot for having it all buttoned back up by Saturday. Wish me luck!

The customer ordered it from Summit, they declined the return because he used one of the pieces and only wanted to return the other 2 pieces. We offered to send him a new kit for free, I would call that “eating it” would you not? We didn’t get his order but were still offering a solution.

You are correct in using this product to seal affected areas but only after the rust has been treated. From the product description: APPLICATION - Remove grease, oil, and other foreign substances using POR-15 water-based Cleaner Degreaser followed with POR-15 Metal Prep to etch the surface and neutralize rust. Stir POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating thoroughly, DO NOT SHAKE. Always apply thin coats, minimum of two. May be recoated or top coated when dry to the touch, typically 2 to 5 hours. Topcoat when surface will have exposure to UV light.

Yeah, this "One thing that just came to mind is the oil passageway plug that goes into the front of the block. I remember pulling it out and looking at it but am now only 80%ish sure I reinstalled it." You need to verify a plug is in place.

When you write "won't prime" do you really mean won't pump? Filling it with oil is actually the priming. How do you know it's not pumping? Oil flow to the cam shaft, reading on the gauge, or what? You might remove the oil pressure sending unit and see if oil flows from the hole when you spin the pump. Also, if you packed vaseline on the inlet side of the pump it might have trouble pulling the oil in to pump it. You can only generate atmospheric pressure on the inlet side.

That is the sound deadening material, AKA "tar mat", that was factory applied to the floors by Nissan. Unfortunately they applied it to bare metal. It is safe to remove, search "tar mat removal" on this site, and you find lots of ideas. Like using dry ice. If you plan to replace the tar mats later, and want close to original, see our downloads area, in the cad files section, I posted some tar mat templates there.

NEW PRODUCT!!!! 1970 - 1978 DATSUN 240z 260z 280z Rear Trailing Arms 3/4" Chromoly Heim joints Reinforced Mainshaft at Bushings Tested on 1000hp Drag/Drifter

I sold my restored 260Z about 3 years ago. It was a labor of love. But I still like front engine sports cars. A Z replacement entered my garage this month. Enjoy your Z's. Dave

FWIW, I bought a Resurrected Classic's valance set last fall. The body line contours weren't even close. This reproduction had contours that were over 50% wider than the original and didn't match the original fenders. I sent them back the corner valances, showed them the error. No response, no refund, just crickets. I cut and welded on the center valance, moved the holes and got it to fit. Here's some photos of the corners compared to the original.