Leaderboard

I have a scan of the gasket that you can print on a standard 8.5X11 page. Get some 1/8" thick closed cell foam and lay the print on it. Use a very sharp hobby knife to cut out a new gasket. I've used this process several times for license light refurb. License Light Gasket.pdf

Blocking, block, block…..

Im going with D A A or B A A

Confirmed clear plastic washer and small screw. Round metal "coat hooks" up above were later replaced with a more hook shape in plastic. Seat belt hooks are here. Once they were moved from the seat back.

This is from my 1/71 series 1 car. Phillips screw with clear plastic washer.

Pretty sure its a phillips screw with a trim washer in that spot. J hook is below the panel and a coat hanger round metal piece is at the top. This picture is from BAT auction

Correction. Look at the 1987, too. Left: Right: The 1986 calibers are the same, too.

Looks like O A A, 1969 January 1st? Or O I A, 1969 August 1st? We talked about it here,

According to Rockauto.com, 1988

Referencing this nice exploded view and my comments earlier, #9 is the valve that got stuck. #10 is a rubber part that fits on #9. When the rod portion of #9 seizes in #12, then the cylinder operation stops working properly. I don't know exactly how it works, but I think #9 works like a one way valve - it seems to close the circuit, which then allows the main piston and primary cup to move fluid. When #9 is stuck in the "open" position, fluid just flows back and forth, and no force or movement of fluid is generated.

Manifold gasket? Hey, on the problems bleeding the clutch system - I discovered that you can push the slave cylinder back in its bore by hand from underneath or by reaching down inside the engine bay. Crack the bleeder, push it back using the rod to remove the air. Easier than messing with the pedal. I also had a bad slave cylinder that I could not get bled. I never really figured out for sure what was wrong with it. I think that it might have been sucking air in through the seal. Can't understand how unless the MC return spring was strong enough to pull negative pressure. Anyway, replacing the slave cylinder fixed it. p.s. I remember that there was a small amount of fluid under the dust cap. But there shoudl have been more after many pumps. Had to be sucking air on the return.

It has worked for me many times, especially when I replace everything and dont bench bleed. Old BMW's were really hard to bleed, at least for me, without this method. FWIW, mountain bike brakes are bled like this. 🙂

Look at these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaz-19b979?srsltid=AfmBOorQHThiJTzimO6iRJqOhvJrTk6qA8SuHrOzdDx3mNdVlhMjM5fU https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaz-19b978?srsltid=AfmBOoph0mai3pzg2aMTQEZ4Nsv1qV5CBGEa_W2dgqT_Ks4aG4Kh3P8v

And should anyone be interested in the ducts themselves https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/167065483403

Have the jack that came with vin-51, can’t make out the markings, but has a clear enough decal….. anyone take a shot at the stamping? Couple different angles.. and lighting.

Try reverse bleeding the clutch.

To be clear Richard, I do not have any 1971 plug wire sets.

Hi Ian, you made it! You will be so satisfied with the color when you paint your block. Kats

Just checked my stash. Have NOS sets dated coded 1972 and a 1973 set, white lettering. Also a set of unstamped ones I'm doing up for my car in yellow lettering for 1970. Don't have time to do the reproductions, busy developing next gen drones!