Leaderboard

Fuel tank full of vegetation….

Undercoat that is applied by Schutz usually has a more gloppy texture, I'm guessing that was done with rattle can undercoat. The coat on this car has the same consistent texture as yours does but has a bit more of a shine.

It is the somewhat infamous vin 51 car that went through BAT back in 2013 or so…. yes , a shell, with correct dates glass, and engine block. Will definitely be looking for a few items. But fortunately, I have a couple of doner cars…

Oh, congratulations! You should have a lot of fun putting that back together. Zed Head, we call them 69s because they were built in 1969.

Hihi.. not in Fahrenheit! Lets say if you touch the aluminum wheels (somewhere in the middle) and you have to pull back fast because it feels to hot to let them a few seconds on there, that's most times to hot.. Normally if you drive an half hour with lots of hard braking you get the same result, those wheels get very hot.. (That's normal) Take a look at the container/user manual of the grease you used! It should say something about temperatures.. It does remind me of a time i drove a sunny coupe to work very fast.. When i came at the firm and stopped and got out there was a black plume of smoke over both front wheelarches! 😁

Plans are to dustless blast, and evaluate. Current visible issues are rear valance, and “slam plate”. Slight impact in front at some point has crinkled the radiator support structure. I think it can be straightened out for cosmetic reasons ….if not, I have to round up some parts. Frame rails have taken some abuse over the years….. repair or replace yet to be determined……

Thank you 😊 Started on the eave(?) above the doors. Removed the damaged one, to find (of course) that there are additional issues. need to add a 1.5" strip to seal the gap that exists behind the eave. I'm going to cut it from the extra PVA I have, don't have to worry about rot with that. I bought 1X6 pine instead of the shallower 1x4 for a deeper overhang of the doors

I was just recently messing around with a window (fumbling moderately successfully?) and I found that rubber roller had seized on it's axle and had worn a flat into the rubber. That can't help matters as far a scratching the glass goes.

Having been declared in 1995 as “under restoration” #51 has sat quietly waiting for someone to put her back together., I thought I’d share my sure to be slow resto project……good, the bad, and the ugly. Pulling a clear glass, 09/69 dated rear hatch glass from the clutches of a dry rotted hard gasket isn’t for the faint of heart…. Trusty hammer, screw driver……😃

Lot's of pictures of this car here on this post from 2016. Upper link directly goes to this car. Also lots of good pics of other early cars, thanks @240260280z aka hoover.

Even in October 69 the wiring was in place for an electric fuel pump install.

Not more details about the plan - more details about the car. Why do you call it a 69? I see a transmission but it's not an early 240Z transmission. The diff is intact but the propeller shaft is not there. What's up with that? The plan will be a lot more interesting with details about the potential of the car. Do you have the missing stuff or did you buy a shell?

Grommets, you say?

Hatch in better shape then expected under gasket…..some rust, but not too bad.

Why don't you reach out to the Triangle Z Club based in North Carolina? I'm pretty sure that a club member nearby could recommend a body shop that performed good work on their Z. https://trianglezclub.com/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/TriangleZClub/

There is a 40% mark up on this one….I’ll throw in free shipping .

Found a seal search web site for the internal repair option. Might be a skinny seal. https://engineering.timken.com/engineering-tool/seal-search/

On my cars, the yellow paint (I assume lacquer) was blotched on with a brush. Fairly messy, seemingly applied in a hurry. So, I looked at all my glass, from both cars, and I can't tell what from the chart. I have some LAMISAFE M-146 and some TEMPERLITE M-215

All of the lights are fairly easy to change out. I like the Hella H4 housings. Just view the attached video on YouTube (look at the lower left hand side of the image with the link) so you can see the parts link in the description. The Auxito bulbs I used do not need relays, but relays won't hurt. White LED (license plate and reverse lights) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XWWJ4N4 Amber LED (front side markers) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XWXXPN5 Red LED (rear side markers) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XWX81ZD Red 1157 LED (rear turn signals and brake lights) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YFR8TPT Amber 1157 LED (front turn signals) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BCCYWKF Green LED (gauge lights - note, you may need to remove the green lens in the gauges) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087JGFK11 Red 1156 LED (rear lights) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WGAUIR2 Please note that I selected these for the best fit/most light that I could get. Match the lens color for all exterior lights.