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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/29/2024 in all areas
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Restoration of BringaTrailer 240z - HLS30-35883
First, and probably most people have this step figured out, when you start your post, click on choose files (yellow highlight in this capture): After you select the pictures that you want to upload, you will see them in the uploaded portion of your post, as seen here - they show up below the choose files link: Then, you put the curser where you want to insert the picture. In this case I will hit enter twice to return two lines, and then I will click on the image I want to insert: Most people leave their images full size like above. However, when you double click on the picture you inserted, you are presented with resizing options: At that point, if I want a row of three pictures, I change only the width from "1000" to "350". I do this for each picture. As I do, I can move the cursor where I like and add spaces or hit delete to move them around. I treat them just like text at that point. If I want a row of two pictures, I resized the width from "1000" to "450". If you do something you did not intend accidentally, hold control and "z" at the same time to "undo". You can control z and back up one step at a time as you need to.3 points
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carb oil leak
2 pointssolved, as suggested by Mark I did call Steve over at z therapy today about the leak problem. now if you happen to over fill the carbs with oil and put the piston plunger back in, it will spill over in the dome and come out the bottom when the piston is inserted. I2 points
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carb oil leak
2 pointsYou are correct that overfilling the carbs with more oil than necessary won't really cause a problem. It'll just run down into the carb throat and be pulled into the engine when you start the motor. But 500 miles later, that should have happened already and should have burned off by then. In other words... If you put oil in the carbs 500 miles ago, but the mixture nuts are wet today... I'm skeptical that it's oil from the carbs that is making the mixture nuts wet. I'm thinking that maybe it's partially evaporated gasoline mixed with a little blowback from the intake manifold mixed with a little road dust? There was a thread many moons ago where we talking about oil leaking out of the damper tubes. Seemed improbable, but possible, with the flat top carbs, but seemed impossible with the round tops? I can't dig it up right now, but maybe someone can find that old thread?2 points
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Repetitive clunking noise from driver side only when in motion. How concerned should I be?
That one stud that you can't get a nut on, mark it, remove the wheel and spin a nut down on that stud as far as you can then tap it with a hammer in the direction it needs to go. Chances are the stud isn't bent just misaligned, it happens all the time when new studs are installed. Also, when you do get all four wheels on, take the car for a short drive, 4 miles then re-torque all the nuts again.2 points
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Restoration of BringaTrailer 240z - HLS30-35883
2 points
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Dave W 1971/240Z rebuild
2 pointsI have found the 3m to be a lot like boogers and not very spreadable2 points
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Restoration of BringaTrailer 240z - HLS30-35883
This: https://www.yourautotrim.com/noname37.html?utm_source=noname37&utm_medium=shopping%2Bengine&utm_campaign=googleproducts&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA0PuuBhBsEiwAS7fsNYjrtr-rjnrgG217g_Wh_NIaKDB1lRzQNuqbQVa1Q9VkGZ7dClw8fxoCKcwQAvD_BwE Yes - part of the reason I asked. I have mine set to 90%. On 100%, it goes to two on top of one. Depending on the monitor width, and browser settings, the pictures move.2 points
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Z's on BAT and other places collection
It should also have the turbo cv axles as well. The 83zx 2+2 parts car I found had them. Installed them in my car.1 point
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Dave W 1971/240Z rebuild
1 pointI finished up the quarter windows today, they have altered the inner seal design from the original, they have added these little fins in the back corner. At first glance I thought it was a nice addition but I could not get the frame even close to fitting properly, eventually I had to just cut them off so the seal looked like the original and the frame fit properly. Anyone else run into this?1 point
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Restoration of BringaTrailer 240z - HLS30-35883
I saw that in the Z's on Bat and other places collection thread the other day... and it is low miles, all original! Looks like it is in amazing original condition.1 point
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New Nissan L-Series Head, Maybe?
1 pointI was actually knee deep in making this myself. I am glad I pulled back a few months ago. My goal was to mass produce them, go cheaper. Nissan didn't say they aren't going to sell them, a writer for a magazine did. I was told from a nismo engineer that it's not off the table. I guess they are blown away with the response.1 point
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carb oil leak
1 pointI don't know where the oil is coming from but like C.O. I don't think it's coming from the carb reservoir. Ztherapy has an excellent video on SU carbs. It describes their function in detail and has many tests to ensure the carbs are working properly. With that thought in mind, you might give Steve at Ztherapy a call and ask him about the oil problem.1 point
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Dave W 1971/240Z rebuild
1 pointI use the tip of the nozzle to spread it around but there are many other good brands to choose from, I just use 3m because I've learned its tricks.1 point
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Repetitive clunking noise from driver side only when in motion. How concerned should I be?
Do you have a speed square? Like carpenters use? You could set it against the face of the hub and see if the studs are coming through square to the hub face. Use the speed square to adjust the studs until they're close to square. Checking with the wheel as you go along. See if the shoulders are seated all the way on both sides. Measure the hub thickness both sides. Measure how much stud sticks out on both sides. Then you will be able to calculate if your studs are the same length on both wheels. Don't assume... Another thought, set the speed square across the face of the hub to see if it's flat. Maybe the hub face is bent slightly making the stud point in the wrong direction1 point
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New Nissan L-Series Head, Maybe?
1 pointI think there are a lot more people out there that would pony up $10,000 for this head than most realize. The cheap seats at the super bowl were $9000!!! It was full of people and this head will last a lot longer than the Super bowl! When you look at the cost to build an L motor up to this power level of $12-14,000 then this head isn't out of line. This head would also make it easier to build that kind of power on your own versus relying on a engine shop to port and polish a P90 head. I guess one of my questions is, would the new head only cost $10,000? Maybe it will be $20,000? They will still sell a good many but it will push it out of reach for many. I hope they make it and I hope it's quasi affordable.1 point
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Repetitive clunking noise from driver side only when in motion. How concerned should I be?
So the shoulder on the wheel studs is all the way seated against the back of the hub? Are the hubs the same thickness? Yes, the studs look bent. I would thread a lug nut onto the bent one and tap it with a hammer to get it centered in the hole. The should move fairly easily. Don't get carried away!1 point
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High speed wiper not working on 1972 240z
Well i remove the clamshell and took the combo switch out. Sprayed some deoxit d5 fader which i use on my fender, vox and marshall tube amplifiers when require some maintenance. Problem solved and now the high speed on the wipers is working. I did noticed that when i took the car to the shop for a short circuit some one unplugged Dave Irwins harness i had purchased and conected the female and male sockets directly as the car came from stock.1 point
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Can't get momo hub to slide onto steering shaft
It's the right part number. https://www.amazon.com/MOMO-3503-Steering-Wheel-Nissan/dp/B000F0KG9A1 point
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78 280Z - Finally got it driving - High Idle, will occasionally die (but restart), sound like it has a misfire
I'm saying that when the engine is idling high after it's been warmed up, and you think that it should be idling at a lower RPM, open the hood, and press the linkage toward the closed position. If the blade is fully closed and the idle stays high then it's not a linkage problem. If the idle drops, it is a linkage problem.. Just trying to use the process of elimiination. Yo have to do it when the problem is happening though, not when it's not.1 point
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Z's on BAT and other places collection
Once an insult shows up the rest doesn't matter. That's what it boils down to, for me. Maybe it's a cultural thing. We have different values. You seem to be saying that a person who contributes to a discussion gains the right to insult other people in a discussion. The more they contribute, the more insults they're allowed. That's just not how I work. You're focused on the punch. I'm saying that the turd is still right there where everybody can see it. The punch is ruined. Stop defecating in the punch bowl please. It's pretty simple. It just takes a small amount of self-control. Read your post before clicking "Submit Reply". Remove the insults. I have written whole paragraphs myself but not posted them. I knew that they would not advance the discussion, or add to the forum, whichever one I was participating in. It takes some objectivity though. It can be difficult. Good luck. There's really not much more to say on this matter.1 point