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Sure, I only have the hatch outer seals at the moment, still waiting on the main seal and glass seal. The outer seals are straight forward but it is much easier to do the top portion when the hatch is off the car, those I tape in place for a day or so until they have relaxed then use 3M weatherstrip adhesive to attach. The main seal can be a real bugger because it pulls so much, so I do that in 2 steps now. Tape it in place as best I can, it never wants to cooperate, then the next day only attach the top most section, the 2 top corners and down the sides about halfway, that's it. Clamp it down into place with C clamps and let it cure completely. Then the next day I do the rest of the seal, the few times I tried to do the whole seal at once it always pulled off the corners. If you have the luxury of time it works well.

How often do you have to add oil to the carbs?

I believe this is it. https://zcardepot.com/products/inner-fender-metal-shield-240z-260z-280z-70-76#

Hahaha.. On MY desktop computer i get 2 plus 1 under those 2.. (on 100% ) But when i set the enlargement to 90% then i get them (3) on a row! 100% gives 2 with 1 under the first pic. At 150% i get them in a vertical row.

More of that red Georgia clay…

I see three stacked vertically on my IPad, and as well very nice work.

Yes, and I agree the G-nose definitely gives the car a Ferrari 275 GTB look.

Thanks John, with the hood, hatch and bumpers, masking tape and cardboard are your best tools to prevent scratches. With the front fenders removed I cover the cowl area and sides of the engine bay with cardboard and tape it down. Then with the front edge of hood resting on my waist and holding the sides I walk it forward and lay the hood in place. Then I lift the front edge of the hood and put something on top of the engine, a small cardboard box works well, you just want to give yourself enough clearance to install the hood hinges and springs as one unit so the hinges are in the open position. Now tape the top on the hinges for safety and pull the hood forward and install one bolt on each side of the hood to the top most hole of the hinges, once that is done you lift the hood up pivoting on those bolts and install the other two bolts and you're done. Remove all the tape and cardboard and start preliminary alignment. The bumpers are very similar, tape up the sides the fenders and quarter panels, make sure the bumper mounts are already installed on the car, get all your fasteners and wrenches laid out on the floor so they are easy to grab and ease the bumper into place, secure one nut in the centre section then move over to the far side of the bumper and secure it, once those two fasteners are on the bumper will sit there nicely so you can get to the rest of the fasteners. Expect to install and remove the bumpers several times as you add washers to get the depth and alignment right. I like to tape the weatherstrip in place on the car for at least 24hrs so it relaxes a bit and I don't have to fight the twists they acquire while folded up in the packing bags. It seems like the J hook for the battery hold down and rear P/S splash panel always go missing on these cars, I've got pretty quick at making up replacements I've had to do it so many times.

I'm sure you can but I would first follow the instructions for continuity testing that Steve gave me in that post to make sure it's a good working switch before you attempt to take it apart and clean it. As for the Honda upgrade personally I don't think it's necessary if you take the effort to clean and refurbish the wiper arms pivots and other moving Parts on the motor. From what most people said in my research the lack of speed really isn't the motor it's the 50 years of wear and tear on all the moving parts that slow it down.

You've been lucky. Your wheel is probably wobbling and that can cause the nuts to loosen. Once they get loose they spin off pretty fast. I lost two lug nuts on about a 1/2 mile drive because I forgot to torque them down after putting a wheel back on. The remaining two were trying to be free also. Stick the lug nut in the holes before installing the wheels. If the nut sticks all the way through the hole it's too long.

Over here in the UK, there seems to be "have to do this" attitude that an imported LHD has to be converted to RHD (cost/finding parts) when again, only driving the S30 a few times a month/ a 1-2000 miles a year ( and some of that likely will be on the motorway [freeway]). Then a lot of the time the windscreen wipers aren't changed over. I think its due to higher prices for a RHD model here in the UK, but that is financial speculating rather than S30 ownership. its still a L model at the end of the day.

Or the new studs weren't fully seated when installed and still need to be drawn out with the nut. There is a reason all new wheels are hub concentric these days, the old stud concentric wheels like yours were problematic.

Agreed, but - beyond that - 99% of the discussion around the Grande Nose of the HS30-H model seems to treat it as though it was some kind of aesthetic makeover. It misses the whole point. Its real reason for existence was to homologate parts to which other - more extreme - parts could be hung off for race purposes. The fact that some of us (me included) find the HS30-H model attractive is probably by-the-by. It could be argued that the 240ZG was somewhat out of date in its styling, consciously or sub-consciously referencing the curves of 60s cars like the Ferrari 275 GTB when the more angular Ferrari 365 GTB had already outdated it in aerodynamic terms as well as aesthetics. The homologation specials which came after them for Group 4 and then Group B would look more angular and more brutal, but that in itself has its attractions.

And it is much appreciated, Kats. Your presence and participation on classiczcars has been invaluable and a vital conduit to helping us understand the cars themselves, the history behind them and the people who created them. You are one of their best ambassadors. Thank you. It goes over a lot of heads but I've believe that, to properly appreciate and understand any single one of our cars, it is necessary to understand its siblings; the cars which were conceived, designed, engineered and produced alongside it. I own both RHD and LHD versions. Japanese market, UK market and USA market S30-series Z variants. Taking each one of them completely apart and going through the process of reassembly is both fascinating and educational. It is possible to observe the great efforts the designers and engineers went to in ensuring that each variant worked well whilst accommodating the other variants in their contemporary family. Look closely and you can see details that were incorporated in the fabric of the cars in order to cater for one particular market or one particular variant, hiding in plain sight. A good example being the preparation for factory air conditioning that was present on all models whilst it was only available in one of them. Most owners don't notice... Kats, we have discussed in the past how ownership of both Domestic and Export variants has helped both of us to understand and appreciate the cars more fully, right? It would be great if more owners and enthusiasts could share that experience or, if not, at least take note of the possibilities it offers.

Once an insult shows up the rest doesn't matter. That's what it boils down to, for me. Maybe it's a cultural thing. We have different values. You seem to be saying that a person who contributes to a discussion gains the right to insult other people in a discussion. The more they contribute, the more insults they're allowed. That's just not how I work. You're focused on the punch. I'm saying that the turd is still right there where everybody can see it. The punch is ruined. Stop defecating in the punch bowl please. It's pretty simple. It just takes a small amount of self-control. Read your post before clicking "Submit Reply". Remove the insults. I have written whole paragraphs myself but not posted them. I knew that they would not advance the discussion, or add to the forum, whichever one I was participating in. It takes some objectivity though. It can be difficult. Good luck. There's really not much more to say on this matter.

The 240z setup is really nice but i have a bug about keeping original stock stuff. If I get rid of them i know i wont be able to sleep.