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SOLVED! The second black wire with a female spade connector is not, in fact a spade connector, but a double female bullet connector. I think this is the connection @SteveJ mentioned a couple of posts ago. I figured this out after looking at this 240Z Headlight-Wiper Switch Identification post and noticing there was a wire looping back on itself. It's always something simple. Here are some detail shots: Here's an updated diagram: I also sort of answered my own question about the door switches. In the 1973 240z the driver's side door switch has three black wires coming off of it; one with a spade connector and two with bullet connectors. I don't know if other years are like this, but I have only found this three-wire switch once and it is very used. I may need to splice the missing wire onto one of the ubiquitous two-wire switches to make it work unless someone knows of an alternative part.

I'd pull the valve cover, cover as much of the surrounding area with some thing to catch the oil, (shop towels, bath towels, plastic sheeting, etc), start it, ensure the cam is getting oiled from one end to the other, shut it off and clean up the mess. That's how I discovered an early oil spray bar that was severely gummed up.

That hole in the drums lets you turn the adjustment wheel on a 240. Not 100% sure if the 280s have that adjustment? but if you can't get the hole lined up to the toothed wheel then it's no good. Hit the drums with a rubber hammer or small sledge if you have replacements. My country arse would try dragging it with my lawnmower to unstick them, been there done that.

Today i finally got the Japanese Neko publishing "Fairlady Volume I" & "Fairlady Volume II" Books. Two super nice hardcover books that come in an additional nice cardboard box each. I've seen those books many times but somehow forgot about them until a friend reminded me about them (Shoutout to Florian!), So i had to get them, of course. I have only flipped through them quickly so far, so have to dive deeper into them. It appears that vol 1 has a lot of background information about the development. like below shown the different prototype / development versions: They also feature nice pictures of all variants like the HS30-H G-nose version or the PS30 (Z432), etc, where you can see all the details: Vol. II has a lot of motorsports photos And also shows one of the famous Z432 Highway patrol cars: As i said, i still have to go through them in detail in the coming days, but so far, they look good in my (partial) collection of Japanese Z-related books:

Excellent! So I've got an EK hatch (I know it's not really an EK, but all the cool kids call them EK's). It's my daily and it's never intended to be the project. It looks like asss with failed paint and it's a slow pig, but I'm in it for the gas mileage, not for the performance. Only thing that annoys me is my prior daily was a First Gen Teg, and it was fun to drive. Not super-performance, but way better than my current Civic. And the thing is.... It got about one MPG MORE than my EK. Enjoy, and try to remember where the project time and money should go!! Haha!

It's in the thing...

and if you replace one, I would replace both. Even though they might be expensive. They tend to have some wear in the orifice and a matched pair will be easier to tune and get running right. I might also consider replacing the needles too if they show any signs of rubbing

Here's a red one that made it to $35,000 in November of 2020, but did not sell. Not sure the market is better now. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-253/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-159/

That valve is supposed to be open when the piston is at rest (not pushed in) and closed when the piston is pushed in. In other words... When your foot is pushing the clutch pedal in, that valve is closed. It opens by catching on the little retaining pin you were questioning about the color. The function of that valve is allows fluid to fill the plunger area if necessary, but then close off when the piston starts to move so hydraulic pressure can build. The tip of the pin rides in that long groove, and when the piston is at rest, that pin pushes against a small weak spring and opens the valve. Valve closed: Valve open: Easy-peasy.

That's the bottom of the fuel nozzle. Have you retrieved the brass nozzle that attaches to your broken piece? My first thought was Ztherapy (Salem, Or.) as a source for the nozzle.

There's no way I would trust epoxy on that. You need a replacement.

More than likely they should both be n54

Round

Finally got around to do the Honda wiper motor swap after my original died. In typical fashion, I took a relatively easy job and turned it into a multi day event but like everyone says, it was well worth it!

Haha!! How far from the original subject do we want to stray? With apologies to the OP....... I've got a 6th gen Civic (96-00). I always hated the steering ratio. Always felt like I needed to readjust my hands in the middle of a turn because I needed more wheel rotation. Got fed up one day and started experimenting... The pinion gear on the end of the power steering spool valve has eight teeth. The similar pinion gear from a third gen Integra (93-97) has NINE teeth (one more than the Civic). Problem is the spool valve bodies are different so you can't just toss the whole Integra body onto the Civic steering rack. However after poking around with both of them in my laboratory, I determined that the GUTS are interchangable. So it's a "simple matter" of pressing both valve assemblies apart and reassembling the Civic valve body using the Integra spool valve. Then reattach the modified spool valve onto the original steering rack and put in back in the car. "A child could do it." Take the valve off the rack: Pressing a spool valve apart on the hydraulic press: Spool valves. Integra on top. Civic on bottom. Note that the Integra has a tighter pitch on the gear: Pinion gears. Civic on left. Teg on right: How did it turn out? Fantastic. Would I do it again? If I had the sub-frame out - Maybe. If I wasn't going in for something else? - Absolutely not.

Yep, the headlight harness connections have been hacked off. *Sigh*