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I appreciate the compliment - thank you! It's been a while since I provided an update, but I have been working hard on body work, trying to finish it up. I actually have been redoing some body work that I was not happy with. For example, I realized I was not going to be happy with the right front fender. I got it as good as I could, and then realized that the rear edge of the wheel opening was pushed in a little. You can see it here: The fender was hit in this area, and when I worked to straighten it, I did not realize that this corner was still pushed in some. I spent hundreds of hours most likely on this fender in total only to have to redo it. I actually got out my Port-o-Power and jacked against the part of the fender in the corner of the yellow lines to push it out. That cracked some of the primer and filler. And of course, I sanded the effected area back to metal and started with body work again. Additionally, I have spent a lot of time on door fitment. Some pics: For the door gaps, I aligned the doors to the best possible position first. This averaged out the gaps at the front, rear, and bottom. Additionally, the door shells (empty of all parts and hardware) are somewhat "flexible". That is to say, I twisted them a bit to then find the best fit for the outside edge of the door panel with that of the fender and that of the quarter panel. From that point forward, filler and primer were used to get the surfaces to match from fender to door, and from door to quarter panel. Left door - to left quarter panel: Left door to left fender: To get the fit this close, I am fixing the door into position where it can't move, and then use sanding blocks across the gaps. So, the surfaces of the adjacent panels become continuous. Right side door to quarter panel: Right side door to fender: Right side door gaps: None of it is perfect, but I am trying. I've got very little time left before I have to hand it over to the painter. I made plans back in November to drop it off to them in January. But that was before reworking the fender and so now I am running behind. I have precious little time left to finish up!

I have never seen those license plate lamps, very cool! These were removed at the dealer when the customer wanted mags on his new z. The customer gave them to me in the early 80's when he was cleaning out his attic.

I bought some from a guy that found them in the attic of a house he bought. They look like they've been stored since new too. $125 I think I paid. Lucky life we live!

You paid too much 🤣🤣

Just a follow up on my original post on the Z radio options. I went with the www.tech-retro.com mentioned in my earlier post. I had Ralph the Radio Guy in Bartlett, IL (773 814 5094) do the conversion on mine. So far, I'm very happy with it. The radio looks and work just like the original one. When I got it back, I set it up on the bench and checked out all the features. Everything works as described in thier video. I now have am/fm stereo ,4 channel 45W (ea) speaker connection, usb input, mp3 input, bluetooth, hands free phone with internal or external mic. It now also has a fader and a balance control. My original radio was an am/fm monaural radio with one rear speaker. The car isn't on the road yet, but the radio is installed and tested. All ok

Yes, its to replace the carbs with a single 4 barrel. Maybe the air cleaner would not clear the hood, so that is to route air to a remote air cleaner. I suggested a turbo because I think Cartech had a turbo set up back in the day for the z. May be some old pics somewhere online.

Found this going through a box when I started my restoration. I think I bought it as a spare many years ago when my wheel cylinder seized.

A part i found in my stash.. is this a orig 240z / 260z left mirror? 96301-E4600 ? and is the 302 the right one? i wonder if i can get that 96302 somewhere?

Currently there is only one manufacturer of the diamond pattern trim. The company is Distinctive Industries in CA. While their product is of very high quality it takes a skilled hand to achieve a good look, especially when it comes to the rear strut towers and rear wheel arches.

or just buy a cheap impact driver.

Are you looking for a separate choke from the throttle plate in a round top SU? There is no separate choke plate in a round top SU. The nozzles in a round top drop when the choke lever is pulled and the throttle plates open a little more. This richens the mixture up.

How about making a special washer with a D-shaped hole? Squared, or slotted, or spanner-holed, whatever depending on the room available, something to grab on to. Or maybe with the spikes underneath to grab the surface, like a lock-washer. Leave it under the nut after tightening, for future removal. Koni or MSA should make them, and include them with the product.

Hello JagoBlitz, while Lee is currently unavailable, he did get the Koni engineers to confirm. They said if you are using some coil over or other custom top or replacement for the mounting insulator, which does not have the "D" shape, if it has room for two additional nuts at the top, you can "lock" those together to hold the shaft, and use special wrenches to tighten the nut below them. However we would add that since many or most custom setups won't have enough room for 3 nuts, then jonbill's suggestion is a good one. We also know of some who have used strong hands and gloves to simply "hold" the shaft in place. Many have tried a "protected" pipe wrench, which is not recommended.

You might have the rod to the master cylinder adjusted too long. Could also be the rod at the pedal to the booster. This can close the fluid return hole to the MC reservoir. The fluid expands and can't escape. The fluid leaking out of the switch is probably coincidence or a result of the constant pressure on a small leak. Anyway, there should be a small amount of play at the rod from the brake pedal. Easy to check first.

Hi Alan, Mr.Matsuo too. When I asked Matsuo-san “wood or plastic” 20 years ago, he explained how our wood steering wheel was made. Matsuo-san said “ real wood is pressed with liquid like plastic in a very strong force. Wood but same time plastic. That is what IZUMI doing”. Matsuo-san’s statement is for how, not for what we should call it. Matsuo-san was surprised and delighted, then said “ what a enthusiastic discussion (in the classiczcar.com), you guys are OTAKU, interesting!” When Matsuo-san talked about steering wheel, he always say” ウッド　ハンドル” (wood steering wheel). This may sounds incorrect for someone, but do we really need to say in a different way and advise Matsuo-san not to call it wood? Probably he would say “I didn’t even think about there is a point of view that it should not be called or regarded wood steering wheel. You guys are great! But I still call it wood steering wheel”… I feel very comfortable that Nissan and Izumi called it “wood”. I have never felt I am cheated. Alan’s anatomy, that is fascinating and the pictures speak themselves. This picture was taken 8th May 2003 in Mr.Matsuo’s studio. Matsuo-san told me and showed me a lot of interesting stuff to me. A Memorial Day for me. Kats

I agree. A lot of lead-time needed for the production of the manuals and literature on these cars, and I see a few Skyline, Cedric, Gloria, Laurel and assorted 4-cylinder type parts used on the (likely pre-production/not to be sold) cars and details in the photos. Not surprising.