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Just thought I would say 'Hi' to all of the regulars and give a bit of an update. I took a break from the classiczcars site as life has been pretty busy. My wife and I moved last year from San Diego,CA to Boise, ID, so the move in and getting set-up has kept us pretty busy. I also picked up a job that kept me way too busy but that is now in the past. I now consider myself semi-retired and will probably do odd jobs on the side, or perhaps do another resto now that I am mostly settled. Wife says it's hard for me to sit still, so I am sure I will always be doing something. We bought our dream home in the foothills of Boise and we should be here for quite some time. The house is huge, has incredible views of the Boise foothills all around us, and also has a 1500 Sq-ft garage that currently contains a 20 ft Geo-Pro trailer and 7 cars. I am cheating a bit as I have one of the Z's up on a lift, but the other vehicles are all on the Epoxy coated floor. Also had a large heater installed so I can keep the garage at 55 degrees F all winter long. I can crank it up with the thermostat if I want to work out there for a while. Z-wise, it's been a pretty good year for the restorations. The last Z I restored, took first in the Japanese class at the La Jolla Concours in April. The owner was thrilled and it was a tremendous event. It was a nice way to start the year. In July, @jayhawk Blue '73 took first in the Japanese class at the 66th Hillsborough Concours de Elegance. That blue is still one of my favorite Z colors. And last but not least, a side job that I did and posted mostly on IG took third in the 240Z category at the JCCS in September. Pretty impressive given the large number of 240Z entrants at that show. Unlike my other restos, it was not a complete resto, but still looked good enough to place. So, it was a pretty good year for the Z's. I did enter my white Z in one of the local car shows here in Boise. The venue was nice, but the car culture appears to be a bit different than So-Cal. First off, not many foreign cars. Also, flashy colors and aftermarket mags seem to go over much better than an all original vehicle. Sadly, I think if I brought my beater yellow Z (with black side stripes and panasports) and my dad's original '70, the yellow Z would get a lot more looks and draw the larger interest. A bit disappointing, but maybe it was just the couple of shows that I attended. Will have to see how this developes in the future. Also, I stopped at the Z Doctor's shop here in Boise. Nice to have someone to talk Z's with. Anyway, I should be a bit more active on here now that I am caught up with most things. Will most likely be at ZCON 2023 and may even bring a car. Thanks for the support. Best regards, Rich

Base of the mirror centered on the concave channel and 6 inches from the front edge of the door. Hope this helps.

Strange, I would think based on that VIN, the production date would have been around 05/71. Here is a snippet from @Carl Beck's list.

I think it is several factors. Lots of clear pictures of the things everyone wants to see. Great looking undercarriage and everything else in very presentable condition. Responsive seller, offering a $25K 240Z, with $50K+ worth of restoration or refresh work already done. That saves the new owner a couple years worth of work and worry not to mention risk. I would say it is a pretty nice condition #3 example, well short of the $90K+ price range for condition #2 on the Hagerty Value Scale. So at $70K it is in the range one should expect…. Still I am surprised to see that many potential buyers that also like the Metallic Brown color - that is not the usual case. Also - from my memory, I don’t believe that Metallic Brown nor any Metallic was Amino Alkyd Enamel - the Metallics were acrylic enamel.

Let me know if you find a 10mm socket.

We got lucky and never lost power. Lost a tree though. Guess I don't have to worry about all those pine needles getting all over the yard and into the ventilation system of the car/truck.

I was not sure how this would turn. But with no one close to do cad. plating I gave it a try. I"m happy with it. He did all the cleaning of the parts and plating Close to me in Escondido ca.

$240,000.00 then PLACE BID He's drunker than me!

I know the forum likes to look at nice clean restored cars up for sale for top dollar. But as the title states "and other places" Well here is a new one from the "other places" category. These don't show up in this venue too often anymore. In NW Oregon. https://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/RNDrpvNisqJIreOFPB3Q2FuZD

My guess would be the console change had everything to do with the transmission change from A style to B style. New shifter location.

What is your VIN and production date? Model year is very subjective. That "series 1" console could very well be original and correct for your car.

Pretty funny. Fat fingers... "We have canceled a bid on the following BaT Auctions listing: 1970 Datsun 240Z. Canceled Bid Amount: $240,000 We apologize for the inconvenience. Up-to-date information can be found in the comments section of the auction, which you can find here. You are receiving this message because you are watching or bidding on this listing. To unsubscribe from bid notifications for this listing, click here. The Bring a Trailer Team" https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-87/

Nice paint and very clean. It's not a restoration. The "pre-muffler" is left off also. It's gonna drone. Pick, pick, pick...

I think this is an indication of the level they restored it to, painting everything on the rear suspension black at once (including all the nuts and bolts) seems a cheap easy way out. Don't think the factory did it that way!

Ouch! Blue oil pan? Folks, you have one chance to do it right, don't let it slip away!!

I already figured it out and also have an unknown estimated bill for finding the short on behalf of the car shop. Apparently former owner connected the sensor that activated the Dome light when the passenger door was opened backwards. How much labor time and fees should i expect from them for finding the short and installing the instruments and wiring back? Fortunately, the dashboard was not removed.

You can move the rod in and out several inches so the front to back position is not very critical. I made a simple plate jig to hold the end of the rod in place to support it while bashing the pin out. 17/32 bit for the rod I think. Hose clamp to hold the rod fully forward. This puts the pin head exactly 3-1/8 back from the case face. I have used an air chisel tool with a round bit in the past to get this pin out, it works extremely well and is nearly instantaneous. Beating it with a punch requires more effort and unpleasant words.

I drilled a 5/16 hole, then enlarged it to about 3/8 and angled it to aim at the pin more directly. When done I drilled it to 27/64 (just under 7/16) and tapped it with a 1/4NPT tap and plugged it. The hole is 3.125 from the case face, and down 1.375 from the casting edge above. I’d likely use a plug with a recessed hex head rather than the square headed thing I show, it’s just what I had on hand. Locktight it in.

Sounds like "the bride of Frankenstein's creature" scenario.

You would only have been able to fit 4-point harnesses on the driver's side, as there were no shoulder strap mounts/anchor points on the passenger side. Mounts could feasibly be added after the fact (I've done this on my 432-R replica project car because I wanted both sides the same) but they need a doubler underneath or - preferably - the welded-in L-shaped factory reinforcements and captive nuts as seen on the driver's side. So this is another one of those Works rally car-specific differences. The Works rally team fabricators were able to specify non-standard additions and modifications literally before the bodyshells were welded together.

In fact it seems it was restricted to the 1970 RAC Rally and 1971 Monte Carlo Rallye batches of Works cars, as the 1971 East African Safari Rally batch and onward batches of cars didn't have the cut-away finisher panel holes. There was clearly - as is so often seen on these cars - an evolutionary process going on here. The very first batch of cars sent overseas - for the 1970 RAC Rally - featured the cut-away finishers, but not the extra self-tappers. Instead they had threaded studs inserted where the normal fixing screws would thread into (those pesky...) captive nuts in the plastic lamp housings, and butterfly nuts were used to hold them in place. This allowed the lamp units to be removed fairly quickly without having to take off the finishers: Obviously the 1971 Monte Carlo Rallye batch (an event where rear quarter damage was more likely) improved on this with the addition of spring nuts on the body and self-tappers passing through the plastic lamp housings, so it was no longer necessary to fiddle around undoing butterfly nuts inside the car. Better! However, for the 1971 Safari they reverted to uncut rear finishers. The finishers were secured by self-tappers (rather than the stock plastic rivets) so could at least be removed fairly easily. That area of the car was a good place for storage. They tended to store the onboard jack near there, as well as a host of spares, ropes, jack base, shovel etc housed inside a fabricated pocket. LOTS of storage on these cars:

I saw that. Odd how there always seems to be someone wanting to place a bid that correlates to the model, e.g. 240, 260, 280. Looks like Captain Chet was a bit over exuberant, eh?