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Grease the rear driveshafts' u-joints. The propeller shaft u-joints might have Zerk holes also. You might need to get a Zerk fitting since Nissan plugged the holes with screws from the factory. The ball joints need grease also.

A couple of tips. 1. Before draining the transmission or the diff remove the filler plug first. Sometimes the filler plug is very hard to near impossible to remove. Once you drain the oil, the car is inmobile and all your options are gone with it. 2. Transmission: Try oil from AC Delco or GM. Yes, it does wonders on these old trannies. The part numbers are AC DELCO USA part number is: 88900399. GM USA part number is: 12377916. I can not order the GM or AC delco oil here in Europe. I'm using Redline MT 75W-90 and find it very good.

So I ended up getting this free ZX from Craigslist, expecting it to be a total pile, but actually it's not too bad. It has less rust and body damage than my car did when I started out with it many years ago. Too bad there's no title because it wouldn't bee too much to get it on the road. I have enough sitting in my garage to do it. The trunk does this wild thing where it stays open with these shock absorber looking things instead of a broomstick or a pair of vice grips. I'll have to research that a bit further. No transmission. Originally no engine but the guy ended up giving it to me after a bit of talking about Z cars. Great guy. The engine looks to be suffering from a few poor color choices and more importantly, a missing rocker arm and a lose rocker arm that went off the rails. Looks like they might have ran it that way because the cam has been eaten up a bit. Too bad.

The Mast got bent fully extended right at the bottom, so the bottom most shaft will not retract. it bent and torn. I have it back up and working but for that one part. Also, the acorn nut got damaged, the plastic top part. I wrapped it with electrical tape as a temp fix to keep water out. I was able to find a donor power antenna on Ebay that may work, hoping the bottom rung of the mast is the correct fit. As a backup I scored an OE era correct Harada that may be a direct fitment. That is on the way as well. Somehow, I will get it back on-line for full retract. Good news the misfire is gone, seems like the Italian tune up is holding. I will try for another compression test as soon as my new starter gets here. My old one had a smoked armature (wires brunt, string wrapping toasted clean off. I got a rebuilt Hitachi from a Nissan dealer, my Autozone replacement that I am currently using has an iffy Bendix, it engages but does not pass power consistently, I presume the contacts are getting pitted (it was the one I had on my engine test stand) I have a spare Bendix that i pulled from the smoked starter, filed the contacts clean so may try that on the autozone starter, reinstall to new turbo test stand. Lots of musical chair's games on starters lately.

Looks okay in that picture. As said before, check all of them. If you want to get a better idea, mark all of the wear pads with some layout fluid or a magic marker then rotate the engine a few times. The cam will rub away the marking and show you what's happening. Some of the wear might be from before the new camshaft was installed. Good luck.

Pretty bored waiting on the body shop. I decided to clean up my front blinkers. They cleaned up nice. I ran the plastic housing through the vapor blaster on low psi, and it removed all the overspray. I wish I had taken a before picture. They were pretty rough.The screws were rusty, and got trashed removing them. I found this nice little package of stainless screws on amazon that matched pretty well. The longest one, isnt quite as long as the OEM, but seems to work fine. Just thought I would share the link in case others need some screws. For $10, it isnt worth my time to drive around town searching for screws. I was able to reuse most of the little plastic washers. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B6HV8YZL?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Download the factory service manual. It has the specs. The FSM is available in the Downloads section of this board. I have a link in my signature.

https://www.viczcar.com/forums/topic/5381-whats-the-difference-between-240z-carbys-and-260z-carbys/?do=findComment&comment=84116 https://www.viczcar.com/forums/topic/5381-whats-the-difference-between-240z-carbys-and-260z-carbys/?do=findComment&comment=116901 https://www.viczcar.com/forums/topic/9945-flat-top-carbs/?do=findComment&comment=116889 2 comments worth checking out. I've not had much first hand experience with the later flat top's but I have heard a few people know how to get them to run right and they work well when tuned correctly.

A cam lobe that's dropping off of the edge of the wear pad could be the cause of the noise you're hearing. The pattern is definitely "wrong", out of spec., but as RacerX said some people do it on purpose to gain a bit more valve lift. Overall though, the odds seem good that you'd be better off with the proper lash pads to get the wear pattern centered. The three that you showed seem very close, the middle one might even be the noisemaker.

If i am unsure of a scammer, I ask them to send a unique photo of the item. Something like hold it in your left hand giving the middle finger. Always run any photo they send through google images. Sad there are so many scammers.

Thanks again for the help guys. I'll hold tight and hope others can chime in. And I'm certainly in agreement with the flat tops being good carbs. Swimming upstream against strong current, but moving my arms anyway. And thanks Dutch for that document page. I'll add that to my files.

The ones that I have to hand don't, no. But then I simply might not have the one document that does. @dutchzcarguyhas just shown that the suffixes went up to '10' at least, but I have no idea when these supersessions were applied. I think @RIP260Z is your man for this. Ian has done some good research on the HMBs which shows them to be a good design, unworthy of the 'boat anchor' reputation. Hopefully he will contribute.

I'm not on your list, but this is something I've been asked to look into before. The UK market documentation (FSM, R-Drive parts list & L26 Engine Service Manual) show that three variants of carburettor were used between August 1973 and 1978. They were the HMB46W-1A, 1B & 1C. The R-Drive parts list shows all the component parts and part numbers for the preceding HJG46W type, but not for the HMB46W. And if you look in the L26 Engine Service Manual it warns strictly against dismantling the piston chamber, piston spring, piston weight, suction piston and needles. They are very firm about it. I guess they didn't want mechanics to mess with them. Possibly because of emissions-related calibration worries? There may well be a document which gives the part numbers for the needles, but I haven't seen it. Sorry.

It lets me browse the profile, but pesters me at every turn to log in or create an account. No.

I have the same problem with Pinterest and it's gotten to the point where sometimes I add -pinterest to the search to try and filter out Pinterest results.

Both are on Facebook and home based Datsun guys. All my dealings were via FB, FB Messenger, and texts. Who needs a website anymore? Thanks. I wonder if these guys know that by using only Facebook they are limiting their visibility to potential customers. I don't know if Facebook knows that I have an account because of my email address and are trying to force me to sign in, or if those pages are closed to everybody without a Facebook account. Either way, I could not look at the page without being a signed-in Facebook member. This isn't a comment meant to imply anything about the Facebook users out there. It's popular. Just pointing out the fact that the way it's set up forces users to join and sign in if they want to see Steve Bonk or the other guy's products. They might not realize that. Pretty fascinating how much control Facebook has, without people realizing it.