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I've not seen one before. It reminds of that saying "Just because you can, doesn't mean you should".

The previous owner of my Z thought it was a brilliant idea to "clean" all the emblems, holes and other stuff from the body. so this is what my hood looked like: For reference, this is what it should look like, with the two holes to install the Datsun Hood ornament (my spare hood shown): So i got to work and marked and drilled back the holes in the original location: The result turned out perfect (ornement not pushed completely in in th ephoto, so i could remove it again, but the the holes fit perfectly) I also gave it a layer of primer, to protect the holes from rust, until it gets a proper paintjob. Ok i know the area was a bit of an overkill 🙂

Nissan part No. D4160-00003 and superseded 00016. 'Leather-Top' (Black) Appears in the 1973 North American Parts Catalog, illustration 150, and I can't find it in the 1972 Fairlady Z Parts Catalog. It is listed with the '240Z' rocker stripe kits and the illustration shows installation tools and glue. It shows edge molding but the picture looks like a coil of string. It is not mentioned in my 1972 North American options catalog but I recall it from a Japanese option catalog? I saw one in a junk yard in Texas - out junking with Fred. Only one I have ever seen.

There are things one could nit pick but overall, without seeing it in person, looks like a nice car. If you can see it / drive it in person, you can find out way more about the car. Look for prior wreck damage / evidence. Look for rust (under master cylinder, under battery, floors from interior, dog legs, hatch deck, etc. How does it do driving straight? Does it stop straight? Does steering wheel shake under any conditions? Does anything come out of exhaust...blue, black, white? Is there an exhaust leak? If seller will let you, how does the car do if you drive it and shift first to second and second to third at 6k rpms? Does transmission shift smoothly and quietly? Does it run hot? Does clutch slip? How do engine oil and coolant look? How well does it start and warm up cold? Do all gauges work? Get it on a lift. Any leaks? How do the bushings look? New or original? Rubber or poly? How do the black suspension pieces look: coat of surface rust most likely if never refinished? How thick is the paint and how does it look in person? Tire age and condition?

It was an option in Japan, available here in the USA though the Datsun Parts Catalog / Dealer Parts Dept. Could have been installed at the Dealership, usually done by upholstery shops/convertible shops that specialized in Vinyl Tops for cars. Most of them were custom made and installed at the Top Shops.

I'm going to try to reinstall the dash with everything connected behind the new dash, wiring, vents, glovebox, etc. So all I'll need to do is connect the harness at the right side relay area, fuse box, center console, and ignition switch. I'm not sure the new glove box can be folded like origami to fit through the front opening. But it was nice not having a glove box in the way when I removed the dash. I'm going to try installing it this way, but plans may change. I mounted a small push button and bracket (circled in red) to adjust the new clock when needed. I think I need to hunt up another person to help me get it in place, it is fairly heavy.

I believe that was a factory option...

Most of the heavy rain went East of us. It rained hard last night and we had some wind but nothing too bad, thankfully

This is what JDM Car Parts sent in response to my questions: 1. I can tell the EPU is a full system, but I can’t tell if the header is the same as the Super Ex or if it has also been updated. EPU Has 3rd Gen Flipped flange. 2. I see that the EPU version can accommodate an r200 differential, but does it still work with a r180 and the factory cross member that has indents for a twin pipe exhaust? It would not work with R200 set up. These indents are for factory exhaust for Z432 and such. I think they’re not understanding my question, but I found somewhere else that there are specific part numbers for the r180 version and the r200 version. I am betting the r200 version is too wide to work with the factory differential cross member with the exhaust indentations. 3. I saw one website saying the EPU version has an O2 sensor, but I wasn’t sure where it is. Is it on the header or the y-pipe? O2 Sensor does not come with the system. It comes with a plug, which can be removed for O2 Sensor if you wish to use it. 4a. Is the EPU system a bolt in setup in a left hand drive car, or is there going to be a clearance issue with the steering shaft hitting the header? NO Made to fit LHD / RHD > Yes. It fits both RHD and LHD YES 4b. Related to this, are all of the hanger brackets welded on already? YES for EPU 5. Are there any other changes to the EPU over the Legalis r / super ex that explain the price increase over the older setup? Many of the products have been updated without changing part #. We recommend you purchase header and exhaust system together, so you will not have any matching issues. Super EX must be used with Legalis R 750-15414 It is made for a Lowered vehicle. It is made for R180, it does Not work with R200. Super EX does NOT work with Legalis R 750-15411(For Stock height vehicles, it was popular in 80's.

Another 72 on BAT. I have never seen a Z with a vinyl roof. Gotta say, it isn’t for me. Looks like crap. The finish around the hatch and alongside the quarter panels is weird. The termination at the lower end of the windshield pillars is unfinished. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-242/

If it looks gray in pictures - might just be the lighting and angle of the light source etc. That said - if it looks gray or has blueish undertones etc when you see it in person- it isn't factory. Factory Silver in person looks Silver as in that picture. Factory Silver used "Fine" silver metal flakes only. My first 240Z was Silver... got a scratch in the passenger door about 14 months after I picked it up from the Dealer. Spent several months trying to find the right body shop that could match the paint - the fourth shop got it right. Spent months looking very closely at that Silver from the factory. Very hard for shops using completely different types of paint today to blend the correct color - it can be done - if they are willing to shoot enough test panels large enough. Chevy Guys - have the same problem getting Cortez Silver correct as well on Corvettes/Camaro's/Chevelles from the 60's/70's. I had that on my 1970 SS396 El Camino - it is all but identical to the original silver on the 240Z's. Sill if today you look at a hundred pictures of Cortez Silver - only about 1 in 20 looks like the correct shade. Too many of them have gray or blue undertone, or a sand/gold undertone. FWIW Carl

So much opportunity but so many mistakes. In the meantime Banzai Motorworks notches Gold Medallion #4!

So here are a couple things about the 77 and 78 modules: The cases are electrically isolated from everything inside. In other words, there is no electrical connection to the metal boxes that house either the 77 or 78 module electronics. There is no current limiting in the 77s output stage. That is why a ballast resistor is required to limit the coil current. The 78 module, however, DOES have current limiting built into the output stage which is how Datsun was able to get rid of the ballast resistor for 78. Other than that current limiting and some temperature compensation (which the 77 also does not have), the electrical designs of the 77 and 78 modules are pretty much the same. Since everyone likes pics, here's a pic of the 77 module guts: And here's a pic of the 78 guts:

Are you taking questions or will you just be adding things as you explore? You had more in Av8's thread, with the Z wave form, compared to the ZX. Still wondering why this forum doesn't have Stickies. So many good discussions are buried back in the past.

I started a discussion earlier regarding the felt washers needed when rebuilding the wiper assemble. One of you suggested McMaster Carr industrial felt. That's what I ended up doing. They came out good. Not sure how long they will hold up but they're a lot better than the worn ones that were in there. Unfortunately, I had to buy a 10' strip of it. I ended up using about 6". It's 1-1/2" wide and 1/16" thick. If anyone needs a piece, let me know and I'll mail it to you (no charge as long as it can fit in a business size 9" envelope. Oh, BTW I soaked mine in oil before installing them.

I think a direct vacuum line from the engine would work fine. You could install a little check valve in the line so that vacuum applied to that cokk would not be able to bleed off back into the intake manifold. Never a perfect seal, but would probably slow the bleed-off down to the point where that cokk would stay open. Might close down again overnight when the engine isn't running, but as long as the engine is running, that cokk would be forced open. I was only suggesting trying mouth vacuum first (before you invested time running vacuum lines to the engine) because there may be other problems as well. Your heater core might be plugged solid for example. You may have forgotten to connect the heater hoses up in the engine compartment. The mouth vacuum was just a quick way to identify one possible cause for your no heat condition. From where I sit it's the most probable cause, but not the only one.