Leaderboard

Bottom line? Duplicolor 261413 Metallic Carbon Mist. Top coat with Krylon Colormax 53530 Flat Clear. More detail? My first attempt was BFM0360 Ford Dark Shadow Gray. The basic color was good, but it really lit up when light hit it. In other words, it looked pretty good in certain lights, but in other more direct light, it didn't look so great. Looked way too light. My second attempt was Duplicolor 244228 Metallic Charcoal, and pretty much the same problem as the Ford Dark Shadow Gray. It looked good in the shade, but when light hit it from the right (or wrong?) angle, it was way off from stock. My third and final attempt was Duplicolor 261413 Metallic Carbon Mist. I found this paint looks good in both sun and shade and does not "light up" like most of the other metallic options (like the Dark Shadow Gray). I would recommend this color over all of the other previously discussed varieties. Of course, it really doesn't mean much unless I could compare it to a stock colored panel, but I don't have one here. Anyway, it looks like this. This is in the shade with no flash: In the shade with flash. Note how the reflectors in the taillights and the license plate lit up with the flash, but the panel did not: And in the sun. Half direct sun, and half shade-ish:

That starter is a gear reduction starter from a ZX. It’s brand new. It does sound odd but works perfectly. Spin faster than the stock Z one. This one is made by AC Delco bought it on Rock Auto https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1982,280zx,2.8l+l6,1209350,electrical,starter+motor,4152 I won’t forgot how to swap these modules out. It’s dummy proof.

In my never ending quest to find parts that no one seems to be looking for, I finally found what seems to be a good replacement for the single filament (1156 style) bulb sockets for the tail lights and reverse lights. The Dorman 84808 fits snugly in the tail light housing. You can find them on Amazon and Rockauto. I'm going to get a Dorman S847 to see if it's a suitable replacement for the 1157 sockets.

I once found a frayed (near the center) cable that was causing a speedo fluctuation.

that is the truth. happy i found this and thankful for the replies. removed the resistor I put on by coil and all seems to be good. running a smooth 850-900 idle

Hi all I’m new to the forum from Tampa bay happy to be around the classics family Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This modified 71 is probably going to outdo the "early 71 Series I" 240Z. It has fender flares! Eeeewww.... https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-231/

$12,300, RNM. Presentation is key on BAT. The seller did a not-so-good job.

Really...this has become laughable! Calling a car by the badge on the outside is a problem, the woke police taking over yet again. It says Datsun 240Z on the outside so that's what I have.

Or lonely shut-in living in his mother's basement and reaching out for social contact from a caring classic Japanese car enthusiasts group. We'll probably never know.

100% hands free cold start, warmed up and idling below 1k. ITB and IAC playing nicely.

I’m running the stock EFI. Those plugs have been exposed to all sorts of usually activity with the ignition issues and getting the timing and advance all dialed in. Hoping they look better next time.

Not a bad idea, I’ll keep the extra two wires pieces I built in the glove box and a card with the wire setup drawn out in case I’m drunk and brake down 🤣🤣 Today is test day. I’m going to run the car around and see if I can shake out any more bugs. Yesterday, I re-torqued the head bolts from the rebuild and about half of them did tighten a bit (set 60 ft lbs), adjusted the valve lash and replaced the spark plugs. About 9 valves needed to be adjusted. 7 had too much clearance and 2 not enough but all were within .001 of the cold specs. (my back hurts now from that) The old plugs were fine but my local parts store had the NGK (BPR6ES11) in stock for $3 each so I grabbed them, only needed 4 because I had two remaining when I bought the 8 pack last time. Just doing my part to help the economy.

I thought about that one, and i took a close look at your rpm-meter when you started but could not see any difference.. now i know how that sounds! 🙂 It's totally different from the normal startersound!

Well, this was a win! Thanks for posting this Tweeds. Cutting the 45s and getting them to match up nice is the hardest part.

Actually, my post wasn't about the easiest way. It was about the best way to be sure both ends were correctly seated. Your bobbly speedo sounds like the cable is not fully seated and it's rubbing on the inside of the sheath. It's bound up. Or it might be that you have a bad spot on the gears. At least you know that the parts all work.

No fuss, no muss, no unsightly build-up. We are glad your Z is operating normally. I would not be surprised if it drove better now.

FB is good for posting pictures and getting lots of bad advice that buries the responses from the few knowledgeable people.

I didn’t immediately see the stock resistor there as I quickly removed the TIU with my 3yr old in tow. Just removing the TIU made the tach work! Is there a benefit or harm to removing the resistor I soldered in if the tech is working? Thanks again and happy I found this thread as FB responses months ago were not this helpful.

First he needs to take out the TIU and 10K resistor to see if he has a problem. I would not be surprised if getting rid of those (along with ensuring the stock resistor is in place) fixes his problem.

It's a lump in the taped up harness. Like a frog in a garter snake.

Thanks Site, I'm still very happy with the results. When I picked the color back in 2016, I must have looked a little strange in my local Canadian Tire store holding a hub cap up to various cans of paint. Lol This is a test I did on the inside of a tail light finisher that had OE paint in good shape partly painted with DC dark shadow grey and matte clear. Here is one of my unrestored hub caps against the end result,

Before I painted mine earlier this year, I read all the threads on this forum by others who had painted their tail light finishers to determine opinions on a close color match. After sanding and a coat of Rust-Oleum Flat Gray primer, I used Dupli-Color Perfect Match Dark Shadow Gray BFMO360 which is listed as a Ford color and topped it with Rust-Oleum Ultra Cover Matte Clear. I'm very pleased with the results.

So starting in 1973 in the USA the model (series) year and calendar year were the same. There were USA changes to the car in '74 where the bumpers changed, but it stayed a 260Z for that year. In the USA the '75 through '78 were all 280Z's?? Wonder how many changes went into the 280Z's (and zx's for that matter) where the model year didn't change. It seems to me that as @HS30-H probably believes that it's these USA car nonsense/shenanigans that led to the "series" connotation. I'm also guessing that the whole "series" thing originated in the USA.

I just ordered some footage from McMaster. I've ordered stuff from them before. All good high quality. Anxious to see how it looks and fits.

No, it's not a loose fit. You press it on.

No, it clamps onto the ridge around the doorframe, just like the stock weatherstrip.

I bought some generic door weatherstrip from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NELWRJ4 I believe it worked well, and it installed easily. I go into more detail in my thread on waking up my 73.

Nope, we are all African according to scientific research and evidence. Most North Americans arrived from Africa via Europe after waiting in Europe for transoceanic ships to be invented. Others arrived by walking the long route from Africa to Middle East, to Asia, to Alaska. They arrived earlier but all paths are from Africa. The crazy aboriginal "rights" in Canada would not agree with the above. They would claim that they were here first and own all the land.... so if we apply this to the Moon, the USA owns it as Armstrong was there first.... but his ancestors came from Africa. FYI: I was riding on the Mayflower When I thought I spied some land I yelled for Captain Arab I have yuh understand Who came running to the deck Said, “Boys, forget the whale Look on over yonder Cut the engines Change the sail Haul on the bowline” We sang that melody Like all tough sailors do When they are far away at sea “I think I’ll call it America” I said as we hit land I took a deep breath I fell down, I could not stand Captain Arab he started Writing up some deeds He said, “Let’s set up a fort And start buying the place with beads” Just then this cop comes down the street Crazy as a loon He throw us all in jail For carryin’ harpoons Ah me I busted out Don’t even ask me how I went to get some help I walked by a Guernsey cow Who directed me down To the Bowery slums Where people carried signs around Saying, “Ban the bums” I jumped right into line Sayin’, “I hope that I’m not late” When I realized I hadn’t eaten For five days straight I went into a restaurant Lookin’ for the cook I told them I was the editor Of a famous etiquette book The waitress he was handsome He wore a powder blue cape I ordered some suzette, I said “Could you please make that crepe” Just then the whole kitchen exploded From boilin’ fat Food was flying everywhere And I left without my hat Now, I didn’t mean to be nosy But I went into a bank To get some bail for Arab And all the boys back in the tank They asked me for some collateral And I pulled down my pants They threw me in the alley When up comes this girl from France Who invited me to her house I went, but she had a friend Who knocked me out And robbed my boots And I was on the street again Well, I rapped upon a house With the U.S. flag upon display I said, “Could you help me out I got some friends down the way” The man says, “Get out of here I’ll tear you limb from limb” I said, “You know they refused Jesus, too” He said, “You’re not Him Get out of here before I break your bones I ain’t your pop” I decided to have him arrested And I went looking for a cop I ran right outside And I hopped inside a cab I went out the other door This Englishman said, “Fab” As he saw me leap a hot dog stand And a chariot that stood Parked across from a building Advertising brotherhood I ran right through the front door Like a hobo sailor does But it was just a funeral parlor And the man asked me who I was I repeated that my friends Were all in jail, with a sigh He gave me his card He said, “Call me if they die” I shook his hand and said goodbye Ran out to the street When a bowling ball came down the road And knocked me off my feet A pay phone was ringing It just about blew my mind When I picked it up and said hello This foot came through the line Well, by this time I was fed up At tryin’ to make a stab At bringin’ back any help For my friends and Captain Arab I decided to flip a coin Like either heads or tails Would let me know if I should go Back to ship or back to jail So I hocked my sailor suit And I got a coin to flip It came up tails It rhymed with sails So I made it back to the ship Well, I got back and took The parkin’ ticket off the mast I was ripping it to shreds When this coastguard boat went past They asked me my name And I said, “Captain Kidd” They believed me but They wanted to know What exactly that I did I said for the Pope of Eruke I was employed They let me go right away They were very paranoid Well, the last I heard of Arab He was stuck on a whale That was married to the deputy Sheriff of the jail But the funniest thing was When I was leavin’ the bay I saw three ships a-sailin’ They were all heading my way I asked the captain what his name was And how come he didn’t drive a truck He said his name was Columbus I just said, “Good luck”

Another example: S20 race ex. manifold. Note construction:

Sean, First of all, I would say that the description "Nissan factory race header" is kind of misleading. It would more accurately be described - in my opinion - as a 'Nissan Sports Option' or 'Nissan Race Option' part, or - if it was being retailed in the USA by 'Datsun Competition' - as a 'Datsun Comp.' part. Yes it was a Nissan part, yes Nissan qualifies as 'The Factory' and yes it was intended for race use however, Nissan themselves tended to use different - usually hand made, more complex and more specific (as opposed to generic) - exhaust manifolds than this on their own race and rally cars and it is usually these to which the term 'Works' is applied. Generally speaking - and certainly so in the case of S30-series Z race and rally parts - the proper 'Works' parts were not intended to be sold to the general public, they had part numbers that were only for factory logistics use and their costing was only for internal use and/or Customs carnet use. The 'Sports Option' parts on the other hand were designed and manufactured with the intention of sale to the general public, had full part numbers and a pricing structure, were listed in factory-authorised literature and customers could seek advice on their fitment and use. Two quite different situations. Looking at the parts themselves, they are something of a moving target. Especially true of the 'Works' parts which - by their very nature - were constantly evolving, being superseded and made obsolete. If anybody wants to claim that they have a genuine 'Works' or 'ex-Works' part, then provenance is the key. You've really got to know what it was originally fitted to, where/how it was used, where it has been up to now and how it has survived. If you see enough of these parts you can start to understand a kind of vernacular in their construction, and evidence of their handmade is clear. In the period I'm talking about (let's say roughly 1968 thru 1974) there were probably just a handful of guys making Nissan's Works race and rally exhaust manifolds and systems. You can see the same techniques, that same vernacular, on most of them. The Sports Option parts on the other hand were - in comparison - volume produced, and in different facilities. Here's an example: An RHD Works rally exhaust manifold from 1971:

Progress has been steady lately, but the deeper I get into this the more I feel like throwing in the towel… you will see why shortly… unpicked the beaver panel today, all went well with no surprises. Now I will have good access to repair the box section behind it. couldn’t resist putting the replacement piece on to see moved onto the roof skin next. As I began I felt a sense of impending doom… wire wheeled the rain rail to reveal the spot welds. before after ah no, Your eyes do not deceive you, that is a giant frickin hole over the A pillar. Gazing into the darkness of this chasm I felt like my soul was being pulled from my body along with all my motivation for this project…. it was like gazing into the eye of Sauron himself…. Where the roof skin joins the rear quarter was also a huge hole. I’m yet to perform the archeological dig to extract the bog artifact from its resting place I didn’t even bother trying to unpick the spot welds, I just cut what little metal was left. Then I did a lot of swearing, bird flipping and inanimate object abusing. then I unpicked the rear of the roof skin. I used a 25mm scraper blade to help check if the panels were separated and to separate the last bits that were holding on, this allowed me to do minimal damage to either panel. I found it incredibly useful. I found the roof skin was tacked the roof structure in the corners where they couldn’t get the spot welder, I believe this is from factory if anyone can confirm. so halfway to having the roof off now, should knock it off next session, then start tackling the rear quarter panels. I feel like Captain America, I keep getting beat to the ground by this car, but somehow I manage to pick myself up and utter “I can do this all day….” But lately I’ve been getting ever so close to throwing in the towel.