Leaderboard

1982 Datsun 720 4x4. Just finished painting it. Fun to drive

So the forum software won't let me edit the first post in the thread (where I wanted to place this image), but I figured I should share anyway. My mom found this a couple of months ago. My parents driving away from their wedding in the Z, May 1974. They'd had the car for about a year and a half at that point:

Okay, progress made I think.. Pulled m/c off booster and rechecked the push rod. Found it was about 4.5mm instead of the 3.5mm. I think my previous measurement was off due to the m/c being in the way of my ruler. 🤬 This time I made sure the ruler was level & square against the pushrod rod. So that resolved that issue. So all I needed to do was screw the bolt in 1mm. Easier said then done. Found that when I previously removed the bolt last year, it was frozen, had to resort to some heat to loosen it. Well turns out that between being in place for 50 years and too much heat caused the bolt to twist a bit, so it can no longer be screwed in that extra 1mm. Ended up making a new bolt to the fit inside the m/c. With everything back in place, took car for ride without using brakes to confirm no more dragging. Got home all 4 sides were cool. Went out again for a quick drive, this time using brakes. Got home it appears all is good. Will take a longer ride tomorrow to confirm. Zed Head was right on target. Thanks to all for the input. My goal is to keep car 100% original (other then points/coil) so will be sticking with the original m/c. Now if I could just find 4 “D” hubcaps..

I think these 'collector's items' are worth saving for posterity: I must say '71Zcollector' is my kind of guy. He knows plastic when he sees (and feels...) it and he's sticking to his guns. That's the spirit!

Hello, Reacently I got jute pads for my240Z,I think material is same as original but I am not sure for cutting patterns. If someone know the original patterns and can show the picture of original here,please let me know. Thanks kats

Sounding good! FullSizeRender.MOV

"If I was doing the forensics I would look very closely at where the steel contacts the wood. The inside not the outside. The fine details around the weld beads and where the spokes enter might tell a story."

I'd be a little careful with this. The original actuator tip was hardened, heat treated. I'm not exactly what you meant about making a new bolt, but if you started with an off the shelf bolt made out of mystery metal, I'd be a concerned.

Yes, those two wires are for the warning chime. You can find the switch on the wiring diagram labeled as "Steering Lock Switch". On the wiring diagram, you will find it between the dimmer rheostat and the turn signal switch. The colors of the wires right at the switch are shown as red/w and black. I suspect that's what those pair of red/blue wires connect to at the harness end. And as for being able to move the switch over to the new lock assembly, it would depend on how accurately the new aftermarket copied the original assembly. I suspect that the switch might port over OK, but I'm not so sure about the semi-circular black plastic actuator arm. Here's some pics that might help:

No Alan, very much like the wheel in this thread, including the images above. I started restoring mine a while ago, so I know every inch well. The CSP steering wheel has painted black on the inside edge of the 3 slots cut into the satin polished 3 spokes, so points to a finish proceedure after molding as with the '69-73 wheel. Probably the same as the hub of the wheel, painted after. Maybe an idea for a thread covering all those manufacturers who supplied Nissan with parts for the S30Z, the likes of Niles, for example.

Some more photos from my 'autopsy'. This time from the outer surface of the rim where 50+ years of use has worn through the outer layer and revealed a naturally-grained surface below it:

Radiator? Looks like the floor under the seat.

Now they're arguing over the color and wood specie of the shift knob!?!!

I checked it . The decal shows 0 K , November 1970. So a heater box should have the same “ 0 K “ or could be “ 0 L “ on a decal . NIHON RADIATOR, they called themselves “ NICHIRA “ . I am guessing this 919 yellow car should have “NICHIRA 20100-E4100 70 11 (or 12) “ on the surface of a rear muffler. This car also remains a center muffler , so we will see 70 11(or 12) on it as well . This car is very original. I wish I could have it . Kats

Prototype: Natural color Final color: I have not yet trimmed the cutouts….I am still attempting to confirm the actual cutouts based on my 240Z production date. The material I source is 39+/- 1" in width, currently I can purchase 10 yards, imported from overseas. I then have to have the material color matched. I then have to hang the material outside to reduce the fumes. The materials, chemicals, and labor for the two front mats shown above are approximately $450 all in (this is a set I plan to use). As I have discovered on some samples, the color did not penetrate 100% of the material, leaving some of the original uncolored material evident. Therefore, I may have to have the material color matched after cutting to pattern. I have not tested the color for colorfastness, off-gassing in an enclosed vehicle, and water repellency or absorption. Therefore, I consider any sample and my set a prototype. At this juncture, it is not feasible to offer large pieces to others. I want to get some samples to Z owners for their feedback. Once I have confidence in the process and product I will make it available to the Z community. Keith

I just skimmed over the thread. But it seems likely that this would be a wood-fiber reinforced polymer composite, with the original bulk material in the form of what would be called "bulk-molding" compound. A blend of wood fibers and reactive resin ( the precursor to a polymer) that would have the consistency of Play-doh. In that era the typical resin might be a polyester, like they used for surfboards. The mold might be pre-coated with a clear resin, similar to how hot tubs are made, maybe a polyurethane clear coat, for durability and weather resistance. Then the molding compound and steel frame would be placed in to the mold on top of the previously sprayed coating and the mold halves pressed together to form the wheel, then the whole assembly placed in to an oven or autoclave for curing. The end result is a wood-fiber reinforced polymer composite with a hard durable clear coating. The coating is then polished to give the final surface. So, definitely not just "plastic" unless you consider the wings of a stealth fighter to be plastic. But, not really wood either. A high-tech, for the time, product designed to look like wood but be better than wood. Wood has problems. Just one possibility. You can't spend a lot of time arguing with people who rail against "plastic:". The word is just too undefined, it doesn't really mean much. Literally, it means "formable".

Hi Alan, I saw the BAT comments. I am sure this thread will definitely clear the myth. It’s a lot easier to clear than clearing Mr. Goertz myth . I did a bit search for IZUMI , I found this article , https://www.nttd-es.co.jp/magazine/backnumber/no9/no09-izumi.html I think that was just a few years before being merged into Autoliv . This article is very interesting and proved their very high quality and skilled engineering. Also I found an interesting another blog , https://ameblo.jp/1119-4195/entry-12213393088.html A gentleman talking about IZUMI steering wheel. His friend whose father was a president of IZUMI , 常泉彦三郎 Tsuneizumi Hikosaburo .What I am liking is he is talking about his friend was an engineer of Nissan , his friend was testing a radiator for Fairlady Z euro version (no mention of years ) , Nissan Germany claimed the car overheated, they said the car needs to be qualified continuous 230 km/h cruising . One day his friend visited his house in Frankfurt, took his 1975 Porche 911 2.7 for a round trip in Europe, his friend was so amazed by 911 . No overheating, fast and strong brake. Kats

Happened upon a picture of the tube in the tank with no screen) in this live auction on Bring a Trailer - pic #315: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-86/

My tank did not have any kind of screen or sock at the pipe (inside the tank). When I bought my original 240z in 1992, the previous owner told me to "change the filter often". I was 22 - didn't know much. So, what I described above was happening. Car would drive fine, especially if the tank was full. Then, when the gas level would go down, the debris would find its way to the supply pipe opening. The car would empty the SU fuel bowls and come to a stop. The first few times, I found that, after a few hours, it would start up again and run fine. One of the subsequent times it did it, I had my tools. I disconnect the hose at the fuel filter inlet, stuck my head in the engine carpartment and blew back through the pipe as best I could. Got gas in my mouth in the process. 😖 But, it started when the hose was reconnected. I dropped the tank, and used an Eastwood kit to acid wash and seal it after that. All kinds of rust flakes in that tank when I took it out. If you have an obstruction, when it does it again, you could check to see if the fuel bowls are empty. With a rebuilt pump, running empty in the bowls intermittently would point me in the direction of an obstruction in the tank. It may just be a few chunks - not necessarily the tank needing to be replaced.

I don't think that you're talking about the same measurement.

Here's the "Queen bean with sweet tea". This has been like a ship's wheel for me, "driving me nuts" for the last 2 years. Finally starting to care about the cars again so I've drained the old fuel and will replace all filters tomorrow. Exmark is completely full BTW. Sitting off and on for 2 years. It ain't good. But no sign of Red-Kote! Hurray me.

https://www.tmz.com/2022/08/08/street-outlaws-fastest-america-ryan-fellows-killed-crash-dead-dies/

Try looking for A Beck Arnley new MC.

Any mechanical component from the brake pedal to the MC piston could be too tight. Each contact point is meant to have a small amount of play. The play at the pedal to MC can be hard to get right because of cramped quarters. I used to adjust mine so that I could feel when the MC rod was just contacting the MC piston and the clevis pin was loose in the holes. You can adjust the rod with a pair of pliers while everything is connected. It will spin when the locknut is loosened. People have had problems using the FSM numbers on their booster rod because of the variety of aftermarket parts and gaskets and adapter things. There's a tool you can get that will measure the depth then transfer it to the rod if you're not confident of your measurement technique. Somebody has posted it in the past, here's an example. https://www.amazon.com/Sunyat-Power-Booster-Pushrod-Adjustment/

Had previously replaced all 4 rubber lines as part of refresh.

My *guess* - informed only by what I see - is that there must have been some sort of finishing performed on the outer surface with a coat of lacquer or varnish. When you sand them down you typically see an outer layer of clear, after which you get into the organic material. I can't imagine they would come out of the press tooling with a 'finished' rim. That would be too clever! The other thing I note is that the steel part under the rim is bare metal, not painted. Therefore I think the spokes and centre were painted black after the rim was formed around the steel hoop part (high heat involved) and that may point to a certain amount of rim finishing being necessary too. Seems very likely, but I wonder if - given the CSP's 'premium' nature - Nissan upped the quality on it and specified a more hand-finished wheel for it? It certainly looks more 'Italianate' than the stock SP/SR wheels, and very Nardi-like. Is there a split line/joint in the CSP's rim?

I would leave the new switch alone. There are probably no electrical contacts under that plastic piece since it is a aftermarket switch. Just abandon the buzzer. it is annoying anyway, at least for me. I have never had to slot the anti theft screws on the lock. I remove them with a small screwdriver, tap them with something counter clockwise to get them started. Some have drilled a small dent near the screw edge to help with the screwdriver or punch.

Wood. I suspect the plasticy "feel" is where vast majority of the resin ends up during the pressure and heat cycles, on the outer surface (and inner by the photos). I presume Izumi didn't then put a finish, say lacquer, on the steering wheels, and the end finish is the resin? My CSP steering wheel looks very much like the early S30 one, and sands like wood, and for me that is a wooden one. I wonder if Izumi made them too....?

Hi inline6, unfortunately my roll was discontinued some 15 years ago. I wasn’t told the name of the manufacturer , I was just told this was provided by the manufacturer who made for Nissan as genuine parts . This roll is 10 mm thick , the well known shop “ Revive Jalopy “ in Japan used to have them and cut them to bespeak for each individual car . Now Revive Jalopy has an alternative solution for the jute , they finally found 5mm thick jute and they glue it together, and dye it with brown special liquid. Price is on request (probably not cheap for the jute ) if you are interested in , let me know. By the way , this 919 yellow 240Z is so nice . What makes me feel amazing is , the dashboard and seats . They are unbelievably beautiful, and intact as more than 50 years old car . These items are everyone’s top concern if someone wants to be purist. We can’t have them restored 100 % original. We have to find periodically correct perfect dashboard or seats . Otherwise we have to compromise on results of restoration some how . inline6 , you may already see this thread ,https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/8002-original-jute-material/#comments post # 99 and after , our members provided useful link for the jute . Kats

You hurt my feelings😒 I love my silver 240 with red interior

Also has the original Yazaki spark plug leads, unusual to see these 51 years after the car was built.