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GOT IT OPEN Thanks for the help and support.

This will be a good one to watch on BaT, https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-225/ Over 1000 pictures with hundreds of the resto.

This was my "ah ha" read that helped me wrap my head around twin SUs one day. The fuel level in the float chambers is most definitely #1, then getting the front 3 cylinders to run off the front carb "equally shitty" as the back 3 was #2. It'll run on 3 but barely. Don't forget about the vacuum advance nipple on the front carb. It needs to be hooked up to the dizzy or capped off if you're getting pull from somewhere else. Thanks again to @240260280... You doing good I know. Probably playing with grandkids? Anyway we miss you but life is more important than these old cars.

checked on main .0015 (best I could read the plastigage), con rod .001 so looks good there. pulled one piston (the one I was checking the con rod) rings were nice a loose in the lands pistons looked very good, and no coked up oil in the expansion ring was noted. Lastly I fabed up a tool for installing the core plugs. Having not done this before I decided I needed a tool to make sure I get the plugs in a consistent correct depth. here is a short video of the tool

I have an '82 ZX Turbo with the 15" stock wheels. I'm looking at BFG TAs for my next set. They're available in 205/60/15.

^Watching! Same color combo as mine, within 3000 of the VIN. Thanks for sharing!

Haha! If you're anywhere near as good at counting the beans as you are with the stuff that you really enjoy, then you must be pretty good at all of it! I'm not worried at about you opening up your first motor.

Yep, the only way is to reach up from underneath to push the latch to the released position. It will be easiest from the passenger side, as the exhaust will be in the way on the driver's side. A long prying driver, like this should get you there.

Yes, your asking for trouble if you attempt that.

I thought you were a numbers guy, not an electronics guy? I mean... Seeing your place, one would never guess that, but isn't that the case?

So, I found something that fits. The screw is an M5 .8 I do not know the correct length. I happen to find a few 20mm and they appear to work well. Thanks anyway.

I don't have anything swapped. I have a parking light relay harness ready to go in: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10d15/12-4652 but I want to get everything functioning "normally" before I complicate things by installing that. So by "flaky" I meant either bad connections inside the switches themselves OR bad connections at the connectors. Digging more into it tonight. Thanks for the offer of switches! I may hit you up.

Hope everyone had a nice holiday. Here is a little drawing I made around 1980, when I lived in a waterfront home on the Tulalip Indian Reservation. I hosted a party every year, charcoal grills cooking meat, lots of beer to drink, and fireworks. Lots of fireworks.

Thanks! The older of the two wants to be an engineer, and he wasn't around all the years I was driving old cars, so this is for his benefit!

I will take some close-up pix tomorrow and post here. Thanks, stay tuned!

@Patcon when you are done and an expert, come up to Chicago! I got a z that could use some love and can arrange for unlimited beer of your preference. 🙂 Seriously, coming together nicely!

When you say flaky, do you mean bad connections or did you have something swapped? So glad to hear that you are getting it sorted. PM me if you need any extra switches to test things. I should have some stuff laying around that may still work 🙂

Undo parts of the linkage to see if you can identify where the sticky part is happening.