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It's my belief that Wix makes some of the best filters. They make the NAPA premium platinum oil filters. There are a few good videos on Youtube where people have cut open the filters to show how they're made. Wix was one of the best. Fram sucked.

And about cleaning out the block... I made a little adapter for a garden hose that shoots a thin jet and I was able to stick it deep into the core plug holes and flush junk out. Kinda like a power washer, but just at tap pressure. Looks like this:

Why not the flywheel? The flywheel, crank and damper are usually balanced together, and having the clutch cover with pressure plate balanced at that time is something that should be done. The pistons will need to be fitted to the bores. When you use, say, twenty thousanths oversize pistons, the piston is measured and the cylinder bored and honed to fit that piston. Each one is fitted and marked for the bore it was fitted to. Then the connecting rods are checked for squareness and that the pin and journal bore centerlines are parallel, the pistons fitted to the rods, then the assemblies are weighed, and if needed, material is removed until everything is within a tolerance (I forget right now how close is considered the same). This is all very important stuff, especially for an L series six cylinder, as the crankshaft is quite long, and vulnerable to torsional twisting fatigue under load. Are you looking for cast pistons? Forged? Billet? Also, keep in mind, engines usually only have enough cylinder wall thickness to go two steps overbore. You've alread taken one cut. It is fresh. It is starting to sound like sorting this out by taking another cut is going to cost more than having pistons made, to fit the overbore you have now. Search the innerwebs for custom made pistons. JE is one I know of, although I have not used their services.

I don't think that not balancing is going to cause a failure. I just think it makes the motor rev smoother. I remember when my rear view mirror would vibrate when I really spooled up my Z. That was way back when I had one that ran...😉

I think we are drifting off topic but good reading in any event.

In a perfect world, all parts would be balanced as one. In this world that's not going to happen in my case. Why not the flywheel too? Well to be honest, because I don't care. I used to be an ASE Certified Master Tech, and I even worked at Nissan dealerships and I can tell you that in times we had to pull the flywheel from vehicles, they went right back on without necessarily being at the same clock position as they were when they came off. The part is indeed balanced by itself. I'm sure you 've noticed there's sometimes a weight welded to the flywheel somewhere. That's why. We didn't worry about putting it back in the same position because it just doesn't matter on these. Argue that point if you like, but never once did I or any tech in the shops where I worked have a problem or a comeback when doing this. My flywheel is going to get taken to the machine shop to be resurfaced and cleaned up, but I'm not concerned with balancing it with the assembly. Now admittedly I have little experience in tearing down engines and reassembling them in a shop environment because when we had internal engine problems we'd replace the engine at the dealership. Regular repair shops just don't get into that kind of work. It's a shame, but again, real world vs. perfect world. The last time I did anything like this was on an '87 Jeep Wrangler with a 4.2L inline six. And that was... a while ago. It turned out fine. I'm building this 280z on a budget, and I'm already over $3k in just this engine and I'm not even done yet. I wasn't expecting to completely teardown, machine and rebuild it when I got the car but yet again, real world. Decisions have to be made. If not balancing the components together bites me in the backside later then it bites me in the backside. The project is being funded by eBay sales and mad money out of my paychecks so this kind of compromise gets made because the alternative is that my grandchildren will be finishing the project for me. Some, including people with more experience in engine work may disagree and I respect that, but this is where I stand on it.

Or there being junk in the filter out of the box due to Chinesium. I recently replaced the clutch slave on my D21 pickup just to have the new one start leaking after about a month. Took it apart and found shavings from the manufacturing process. I want to say there's a thread about that here too.

So I contacted the machine shop and they actually offered to bore it again at no charge. I guess since I JUST had a bunch of work done. I also ordered the pistons from Greenline. They say they're backordered until November, sadly... But it is what it is. In the meantime I can focus on the car's body and other systems.

I went to work for Boeing eight years ago, as an aircraft structures mechanic. During the three month training period I was surprised that, as a world wide, multinational corporation, Boeing has stuck with inches and feet, 100%. Everything is built to the nearest 0.001”. Holes for rivets and bolts are drilled to decimal sizes in inches. Parts are located in inches. Locations on the airframe are given a by 3 point location system, in inches, from a point just ahead of the nose of the airplane aft to the tail for fore and aft, from the water line for up and down, and from the buttock line (centerline) for right and left, all in inches. Interesting to note that given a 777 commercial airliner has a wingspan around 200 feet, and is around 200 feet long (freighters are shorter than passenger planes), yet everything is located in inches. I was disappointed that engineering hadn’t embraced the metric system. Given that math is not one of my better skills, I thought that metric would be easier than fractional and decimal inches. *sigh* Oh well, it didn’t take long to get used to it, and now I’m very well versed in everything we do there. Everyday I machine the specialized aluminum alloys, titanium, and (only rarely) stainless steel. The hole sizes are small for the most part, nominal sizes of 0.125” for pilot holes and small rivets, up to 0.375” for larger rivets and bolts, which covers most of the fasteners used. Sure, there are larger fasteners, up to 1” and 1.5” for wing attachments (the titanium bolts that attach the wings to the fuselage cost several thousand dollars apiece). Holes for rivets are sized slightly larger than the rivet, which swells to the finished hole size when it is driven. Holes for most bolts (called “permanent straight shank fasteners) are sized slightly smaller than the bolt, which is forced into the hole (transition fit) using a rivet gun. The specifications call out for the hole sizes of various fasteners, with tolerances in the thousandths of an inch. Even the final assembly jigs and tooling are built in inches. The FAJ (final assembly jig) for each part of the build are massive steel structures set on concrete piers that go 30 feet into the factory floor. The FAJ for the 777 Wing Majors is 4 stories tall, and covers the area of a US football field, and 4 pairs of wings are built simultaneously. The forward and aft fuselage sections were also assembled inside massive FAJs, but the new 777-9 fuselage is now built on giant crawling cradles. The 767 freighters and KC-46 tankers are built in similar tooling, but the fuselage is still done in FAJs set on huge concrete piers. The 747 is also done with large FAJs, but those will be getting torn down soon, as the last airplanes are being manufactured this year, after more than 50 years. I started in 777 Wing Majors, then worked building the wing spars for 777. After a summer working on the flightline)also 777), I have been on the 767 Freighter/KC -46 tanker program in forward bodies (everything forward of the wings). I plan to retire at the end of the year. From the FAJ I work in on the 767/KC-46 program I can see the wing/body join and final assembly areas of the 747. The last pair of wings was loaded into the 747 wing/body join FAJ the other day. In another part of the factory the 747 spar FAJs have already been torn down after more than 50 years of manufacturing 747 wing spars. The 747 Wing Majors tool will be torn down soon to make room for the next chapter of Boeing in Everett, Washington, And as always, in inches.

Guide coat this afternoon This is what it looks like when you block. The dark spots are low and still need some work to be smooth

I think I found the answer to the yellow w/ green wire question: apparently it's from a low brake fluid/pressure sensor to the e-brake light on the dash.

When I was still working as a journeyman mechanic at the local electric utility I held ASE Auto and Truck Master certification, and was a certified Mobile Fluid Power technician (hydraulic systems). Can’t say that I have ever seen additional weight added to a flywheel for balancing. I have seem where material was removed, by drilling.

Try WIX filters there good quality. They are also clear. The last fram filter was white plastic.

Not sure if there was a reason or just Chinesium. I would be wary of getting junk in the filter from drilling, though.

An engine is an engine, cast iron, steel and aluminium. Doesn't matter if it was made in Japan, US, Europe, Mexico, Brazil, or China. The principles are the same. Sure, the rotating assembly can be balanced as a whole, or separately. But it is always better to balance those items I mentioned as a single unit. The damper is keyed to the crank, so no need to mark it for reassembly, the flywheel and clutch cover are not, so the must be marked for reassembly to the orientation they were in when the assembly was balanced. After the machining of the crank is done, the machinist I have used assembles the flywheel, clutch cover and damper to the crank, performs the balancing work, then disassembles it all. The piston and rod assemblies are balanced by bringing the weight of each assembly as close as is possible to eac of the others. It doesn't matter what language the manufacturer speaks, the materials and processes are the same.

I'm NO engine builder but i think that's tipical american (engines) way to think.. Japanese engines are balanced per part i think? The inner parts are balanced maybe together i don't know but the flywheel/clutch is balanced separatly for as far i know on these japanese engines? Maybe im wrong, i never had to repair a underblock of these engines.. (I also ask myself how a machine would look like that could make a balance in a engine when it's all bolted together? I have heard of balancing the cranck and the connecting rods and pistons are weighed, but no flywheel as it is balanced on it's own..)

Parts for Nissans.com says it was shipped today so standing by..

Sold the one in stock and off to Belgium it will go. Should have another made by tomorrow…

Rockauto seems to have the Fram filters in stock. I bought some as "just in case" for the 260Z since I recently had an issue that seemed to be resolved with replacing the fuel filter.

Agree with Pop's Z. You'll want to get them all while you're doing it as the others are sure to fail also. I bought all my low pressure fuel hose at o'Reilly's auto parts. Don't use heater hose. For the 180 degree bend you can use 2 PEX 90s and some clamps. Me and some others have done it without any issues. You'll have to remove the back panel of the hatch that covers the backside of the brake lights. You might can reuse the plastic rivets that hold it on but if not they're still available from Nissan or Z specific vendors like zcardepot.com. Here's some good threads to read through before you tackle the job. Good luck. Plenty of help here when you need it. https://www.google.com/search?q=240z+evap+hoses+classiczcars.com&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&ei=9SS-Yq7VFpOxqtsP-YGkiAs&oq=240z+evap+hoses+classiczcars.com&gs_lcp=ChNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwEAM6BAgeEApKBAhBGAFQlxRY3Upg4lNoAHAAeACAAYYDiAHjEJIBCDAuMTAuMS4xmAEAoAEBwAEB&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp

My guess is that like many of these cars that are 50+ years old ALL the hoses in your car will need to be replaced, not just the one you have found with an issue. If you have looked at the service manual (available on this site by searching)you will see that there are a number of hoses attached to the tank. All will need to be replaced for peace of mind at least. Once again, search is your friend as the gas tank and it's various issues has been discussed with great regularity here. You won't be able to easily just drop the tank part way. This is one of those jobs that will become..."while I'm at it, as long as I have it out..." Ask me how I know. Good luck

That's when Ford switched over from SAE to Metric. They designed the all-new modular engine family with all metric dimensions and fasteners, but they installed it in carryover and mildly refreshed vehicles which were still all SAE. The F150, Econoline, Mustang, and Continental all used the Modular engine family in SAE-based platforms. It really sucked to work on them and it was several years later before all of the platforms were refreshed. As for tools, @dutchzcarguy, are your socket sets still 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drive or are they the metric equivalent? I'm pretty sure that ALL machining in the US is still 100% SAE. No matter what the drawings state, everything is converted to SAE for the actual fabrication.

My toolbox has a full compliment of SAE and metric wrenches and sockets, from very small (I think the smallest is 5.5mm) to very large (2 1/2”, and a 4 foot pipe wrench. All my hammers are sized in ounces or pounds. Most of my machinist tools are in fractional inches, but I do have a couple of calipers that read in inches and millimeters. All of my torque wrenches are in inch pounds or foot pounds, if I need to torque something in metric (kilograms centimeters squared),? I do the conversion. I have two sets of taps and dies, inches and metric. None of my screwdrivers are metric. But I do have several Oklahoma Micrometers (crescent wrenches) that are inches on one side and millimeters on the other. I’ve been working on my 1995 F150 Eddie Bauer the last few weeks. Very aggravating that some fasteners are metric, others SAE.

Here in Canada, we gradually switched to the metric system over the course of the 1970's. Since this period coincided with my entry into the engineering profession, I got to witness the changeover as a consumer, an engineer, and as someone living in a country right next door to the US (which, to this day, has never really embraced the metric system). Despite the many positive aspects of the metric system, you will still find that Canadian grocery stores advertise prices in both $/kg and $/lb -- although, curiously, we've gone pretty much 100% to metric when it comes to volumes (no more gallons, quarts or pints... unless you're buying berries or small fruit). Outside of the food store, we still have difficulties applying the metric system for real estate (lot frontages and depths are still quoted in feet and property sizes are better understood by most when stated in acres rather than hectares). Gas, however, is uniformly sold by the litre, temperature levels are almost always quoted in degrees C (except for the kitchen oven), and fuel economy is pretty much always stated in litres per 100km (I still like mpg... but only if the 'g' is measured in Imperial gallons). In the technical work that I was involved with in the 1970's, there was also a mixture of metric and 'imperial' measures. Railways in North America were tied to a track gauge system measured in feet and inches (4 ft. 7-1/8", IIRC) and that seemed to find its way up through the rest of the vehicle and infrastructure layouts. Steel rails were -- and I believe still are -- categorized by weight per unit length, measured in lb/ft. Buses and trucks were an odd mix of metric and imperial (trailers, for example, are still often categorized as 45-footers and 53-footers -- the latter oversized to accommodate two extra rows of 4-foot pallets). Despite the prevalence of metric fasteners, you have to work hard to find a set of metric drill bits (for your 1/4" or 3/8" electric drill). Metric lumber? Not gonna happen in North America. Which means that the residential homebuilding industry still has to accommodate fps. It was interesting to watch how the US auto industry tried to deal with the metric system during the 1970's. The vehicle engineers and designers really wanted to go metric (note: 'designers' are not 'stylists', although stylists sometimes like to be called designers), but the sunk costs in fps-based tooling, infrastructure and support equipment made it difficult. And the American consumer would have problems dealing with a speedometer calibrated in km/hr. I believe that it was decided to start by going metric with the engine design only. The rest of the vehicle systems' designs gradually followed suit afterwards (except for the speedometer calibration and the diameter of the road wheels). Which is why most of us have two sets of socket wrenches (to fit our 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2"-drive ratchets).

Okay, so I went down to my car to take a look to see what I could match up. The black/yellow and green wire are for emissions controls. Matching wire lengths helps, even if the controls have been removed. The black/yellow is for the opener control valve, and the green is for the solenoid valve. Look through the EC section of the FSM for more info. In my car, a previous owner had cut the wires and spliced them back in. I'm not sure why. In looking at the washer motor, my car does not have a yellow/green running to the washer motor. I believe it was black/yellow. I could not find a single yellow/green, only the one in the 3 wire connector for the wiper amplifier. Of course, there's only so much time I'll spend contorted in the footwell to look at the wiring. As for why someone would cut off a body ground...well, I don't use the term IPO (idiot previous owner) for fun.

From my experience, best bang for the bucks, get the cylinder head as good as you can afford plus an aluminum flywheel. Quick rev high rpms. But if the cylinder walls are damaged more than a good hone will smoothe out I understand the over bore. I have a 83mm 2.4 with big valves and an aluminum flywheel that I drive everytime. My 2.8 86mm hasn't seen the sun in years, it's the garage queen #2 on constant trickle charge. May put some fresh fuel in it this holiday weekend?