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Stacked some high build right before supper. Hopefully it will block out pretty close without needing too much more work

Fixed it! The problem was simply the battery terminals and to the block ( earth ). Not the terminal itself but the cable that is clamped to it ( Universal battery clamp ). Cleaned everything and some electro water resistant spray on it. Damn cold weather and moisture here 😭. Moisture is a big problem here even in summer...

Today's developments: Using the below as a reference (thanks so much Steve!) I checked the continuity of each taillight-related wire from connector to connector: Continuity was good between everything EXCEPT for the below: I ran a wire between the connections and the brake lights came on when I pressed the pedal! However—when I tried the turn signals, both lit up when I turned to the left, and the right one illuminated (correctly) when I turned to the right. I pushed the car back in the garage and the jumper wire fell out. I tried the brake pedal again and the right one came on anyway (???). Both turn signals worked OK. But then I tried the brake pedal again and got nothing. This is such a moving target. There's clearly a marginal connection or broken wire somewhere. Going to pop out the hazard switch next and inspect it. The turn signal switch is immaculate inside and I have no reason to doubt it. I feel like I'm working on something with Lucas electrics at this point...

I believe I've read the DS pistons are rebadged Kamearis. Just checked the price: $1375. I figure as soon as I read off my credit card number to TEP, someone will start selling great cast pistons for $300.

This epoxy is a sandable primer so I wasn't too worried about the fisheyes. I mostly filled them in on subsequent passes but no I didn't shoot a test panel. The car will be bright yellow when done

More progress: All 4 turn signals work now! I had to clean out the switch twice (it's spotless inside now) to get them to work. Horn works also after cleaning and re-lubing the contact ring on the back side of the steering wheel hub. Only thing left are brake lights, and we're 100% operational...

Jackpot! I knew there was a zcar antenna around somewhere. I went out to the shop and gave a look around. I thought I had previously gone through all the boxes. For some reason, I missed it. In the bottom of a box was this electric antenna wrapped in a bag. I am pretty certain it came out of my Dads 77 280 right after he bought it. He was into CB radios and bought an antenna that would work with a radio and a CB. The original antenna went into storage. About 30 years ago my mom said I am throwing out all this old car stuff, so come get what you want. I did. The 280 antenna looks to be very similar to the 240. The tip unscrews and the mounting hardware is mint. I fell like I won the lottery. The switch to the right looks to be an early 240. The switch that was attached to the antenna looks to be factory, but I just dont know the 280's very well.

So I finally got the car sanded down as far as I was willing to go. I taped it all up over the last week or so and reset the booth. Then shot some SPI white epoxy over that. It's a little different than what I am familiar with. It will fish eye if you lay the first coat on too heavy. Being white it can be hard to get full hiding coverage. I may stack some high build tomorrow. I've got 7 days to coat. We'll see...

To illustrate zspert's points, here are a couple of photos of VIN 19769 (01/71), taken from the nicely-documented BaT listing when the car was up for sale in 2016. Both paint and lack of paint are in evidence, depending on the location on the underside.

Piston availability has varied over the years. Here's an old post about alternatives. Takes some extra work. https://www.zcar.com/threads/honda-xl500-pistons.45301/ Datsun Spirit has possibilities too. Expensive of course. https://www.datsunspirit.com/shop And Rebello might have something. Haven't seen much written about what's happening there, but if he's still building engines he needs pistons. http://www.rebelloracing.com/nissan1.htm

That's why I had asked if they were new. My next question was going to be WHERE DID YOU FIND THEM? I'm in the same boat. Need .50mm over. JE Pistons will sell forged pistons direct to you for about $200 each, and Top End Performance will sell you JE Pistons fully and correctly configured for $1300 a set. You can bore ($200) to 1mm over and get Ross for $900 (IIRC), but they seem to not get much love, while JE's seem to be loved by "all". Finally, you can also get Kameari from Japan for under $900, but not in .50mm over. I've been looking for more than a year and am getting uncomfortably close to being okay with $1300 for a set. My engine has had rods conditioned (shortened), the head has been cut, the block has been decked, it has a performance cam waiting to go in, and I am specing 10.5CR. I figure $100 delta for TEP to guarantee proper configuration is worth it; and by getting JE custom made, it obviates buying Cometic or Kameari head gaskets at $200 to get the CR. This is all a lot of fun. I had budgeted around $200 for cast pistons. 😢

Prior to the Covid shut down, Chis was planning on shipping a Z to me, which would have been offered for sale once it was already in the US. Most of his Z’s he is doing for his collection, however as people get into the hobby their specific interests or priorities change and they adjust their inventory.

That would indicate you're guessing wrong. If the resistor was removed from the tach circuit, there would probably be issues.

And let's not forget that it's listed on "anything goes" CraigsList where for the $5 listing fee you could call it a custom bodied Corvette since there's no title.

I took the 240Z out for Caffeine and Chrome this morning. The original plan was to drive the 260Z, but it was having an issue this morning that seems to be fuel related. I almost got rear-ended by a woman who didn't believe in proper following distances, but that was the end of the drama for a while. The great thing is that the heat took a break this morning. After a while, I had a nice chat with a gentleman who recently purchased a 70 from BaT. I provided him quite a bit of Z Car info.

I always like to source pistons before machine work for this very reason...

The body is on hold waiting for some replacement metal, so I decided to tackle the heater box and other small stuff.. It was in rough shape. I think it was go to party place for the mice. I had to remake one of the flaps, create a new spring, and get rid of a lot of rust. I got lucky and had some products left over from past restorations that I could use. Hood insulation from a BMW worked great for the foam around the heater core and headliner material from an FJ40 for the flaps. The older I get the less trips to the store I have to make.

Gotta make a coupla observations based on my experience. I was a Datsun dealer mechanic, no, not a technician or "tech" - a mechanic, from the early summer of 1970 until about 1980. ALL of the new Datsuns sold at the dealers where I was employed until about 1976 or so did not have undercoating from the factory and were, therefore, body color underneath. The paint applied at the factory to the bottom of the 240s, 510s, 1200, 610s, 710s, roadsters and trucks was very inconsistent from one area to another. It might be pretty OK here but thin over there. Lots of orange peel here and a bit of dirt in the paint over there. Whoa, yes, I know the trucks and roadsters had separate frames, painted a rather thin black, but the bottom sheet metal was body color. Sorry to say I undercoated lots and lots of the same cars. I seem to remember getting paid .3/hour labor for every one I did usually as the finale of the PDI (per delivery inspection) which paid additionally depending on the model. Flash forward a number of years to my shop where I've/we've done a number of 240 restorations to ZCCA Gold Medallion standards. I hope to notch my fourth at the convention this summer. In each case I've asked the owner if he wants his restoration to reflect the way it rolled off the truck at the dealership or the contemporary standard. Before he answers me I show him the many detailed pictures I keep on file of original unmodified Zs. Remember, these pictures show details like glue running down from grommets and orange peel in enamel paint. I think you can guess the answer I always get. Carl, you're very close on your estimate of the current cost of such an undertaking. Yes, there are cheaper prices being quoted all over the place but those units will NEVER be in the running for the top prizes or pass inspection from snobs like me who have seen just about every shade of half assed restorations. The big problem I see going forward is parts. The highest level restorations require fast disappearing goodies. Just the elementary stuff like correct spark plug wire sets, exhaust system components, battery cables, wiper blades, etc. can only be had by beating the bushes really really hard and paying a ton of money. Here's one I hear all the time - well, someone should reproduce that, if they do they'll get rich! NO, NO it doesn't happen that way. I know from my very extensive experience that reproduction, after you spend a LOT of time finding a manufacturer willing to make that widget for you, is VERY expensive. One example, for several years I've been shopping around looking for a domestic manufacturer willing and able to manufacture correct battery cables. Finally found one but the fixed costs would be about 40K for 240 positive and negative cables. Another example, 77/78 280 front and rear bumper ends, 10k for the mold and you would need 4. Chris @ S30 World, my hat is off to you and I sincerely hope you live to a healthy very old age! I know you have a TON of $ invested in your very nice tanks. PS, best of luck with your hand brake cables. Yes, his cars are for his personal collection. It's late and I'm getting sleepy.

I think Carl is intending "expected value" rather than an intention of sale value. I also think Carl premised fairly well as that would be around my "expected value" of my cars. Chris is showing us really nice workmanship. "The restoration work on the one that sold for $70K+ would take a year or two of the owners work, and an addition $60K to $80K to duplicate, on top of the purchase price of the car to start with. $70K for 240Z in that condition was a bargain today." $80 - $100K in my opinion. Plus the original cost of the car.

I am not at all current on 240Z values in the Netherlands nor most of Europe - however I do know that Chris Visscher at S30 World on Facebook - has spent a small fortune restoring several 240Z’s. I’m sure he expects to get at least $150K+ for the cars they complete. The war in Europe may put a serious damper on the economy, which in turn will lower all Classic Car values for some time… nonetheless the 240Z’s are relatively inexpensive as 50+ year old classic Sports Cars go.

Hi , now Japan is in a rainy season . But today we had sunshine , so I decided to clean up an engine at a car wash . My friends kindly helped me out for this mission, I am very happy it’s results. Not perfect because I didn’t take off a front cover , and a fly wheel . There are two plugs each side ( front and rear ) , I wanted to, but I had limited time to operate today . General cleaning was the first thing to do . This engine is on HLS30-02146 , L24- 005318 was probably sitting in a garage for last 30 years , I see very bad contaminations there . Rusty , gelled water in the block . We did our best , it was so fun ! Kats