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Charles, if I didn't live 2,289 miles away, I'd drop by and help you sand.

Well I'm no brake expert, but I certainly appreciate the callout. With that in mind, here's my read. I agree with Zed Head that since the bore and stroke is the same, everything would be the pretty much identical when you pressed the pedal DOWN. However, I'm less confident that everything would be OK when you let the pedal back UP. There are check valves built onto the pistons inside the master cylinder and there are also check valves screwed into the outlet ports of the master where the brake lines exit. I haven't studied any of it in great depth, but there is no guarantee that the characteristics of each pair of check valves are the same. You need to make sure that when you RELEASE the pedal, you never create enough of a vacuum out at the ends of the system such that you would pull air backwards past the wheel cylinder or caliper seals into the brake system. Those check valves are all a balancing act between the return forces at the destination ends and the vacuum created inside the master cylinder chambers when you let up on the pedal. And since one chamber is filling large calipers that don't have any return springs while the other chamber is filling small wheel cylinders that DO have return springs, I could be easily convinced that the smart people who designed the master cylinder knew that and designed different check valves for each circuit. So, what could go wrong? When you let off the pedal, you could suck air in backwards past your corner seals (wheel cylinder or caliper). This could make it hard to bleed the system, or even worse, it could cause spongy brakes if it happens under normal use. Or it could all work out just fine.

Have you asked the boys on autobody101.com? Got to ask, are you filtering the sealer through a 50 micron mesh cone filter into the cup? Do you have dry staticy conditions at the moment that could be attracting trash ? A ground cable to the frame and a final alcohol wipe can help. I have had so many problems with sealers that I just don't use them anymore, high build urethane primer sanded to 800 then colour coat on top of that. I feel for you man, get Cody in there and put a block sander in his hands.

So sorry for the issues and frustrations you are going through Charles! I know you were making every effort to get Lily finished in time for Birmingham. It may still happen! My Christmas wish for you is that everything goes smoothly from here onward. You've paid enough "dues" to the Z gods for the things that went south. It will take a while for the sting of this to diminish, but you know Lily WILL BE beautifully finished. You won't accept anything less.

Congratulations.. you have 30 followers! must give you a extra boost to plow on!

Just a thought.. could it come from lose (rusty) dust from a compressor tank? Is there a airfilter on the system? I also can feel your pain.. i once had to paint a bike (motorbike) and i had terrible problems with silicone in the paint... after 4 ! times i was happy with the result... pfff... 4 x high gloss black..

Stay strong. It will all work out.

Make me an offer. The set on the right was running within the last decade! I live near Toledo, OH, so delivery is possible.

I got no input into what went wrong, but just wanted to tell you that I feel for ya. Sorry it didn't go as planned.

Well, I'm unhappy! That's really an understatement. I'm absolutely pissed!! 🤬 So I ran the heater in the shop for a while to warm it up. Degrease the car and tack it good. Wet the floor down, ready to spray Using a Tyveck suit I had and I have found that tucking paper towels into my gloves prevents dripping on the panels So I am running a white sealer coat. The P sheet calls for one "medium coat to coverage" Well that's not gonna happen!!! Even at the coverage level where it runs, it hasn't covered the grey primer. The yellow needs a white base or it's a different shade when shot over a darker base Not only did the sealer run really easy but I have tons of sh!t in the paint. I mean everywhere! I have no idea where it came from?? I had planned on sealer, then base coat, then clear. Now I have to sand again and get dust everywhere which will just compound the problem. and I will have to seal again. So frustrating...

Thanks guys. I've located one. Appreciate your help.

I made a test panel today. Pulled an old junk hood out of the yard. Covered in green funk. Scrubbed it with warm soapy water, degrease, wet sand at 600, then sealer. Still have some funk in the sealer but maybe not as much So I spent over an hour at finishmasters today. The general consensus is the sealer wasn't mixed enough but we can't account for the specs. He did some testing on the can but it didn't show a problem. It's possible the catalyst is going bad. Either way I'm not going to use any more of the sealer going forward. I will use white base coat like I originally did. The bad news is all of the white sealer needs to come off. It's not very thick but it's hard! I've already cut through in some areas and my blocking is already ruined in many areas. So I won't have a car ready for Zcon this year 😞 I have pushed pretty hard this fall to get the car ready for paint and now I have 60-100 hours of sanding to get back to GO. Then I will need to reprime, block, retape, rebuild the booth, etc. Pretty demoralizing...