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Sadly the car appears to be restored on the cheap with many corners cut with the intent of flipping it for maximum profit. There's a lot of work to undo and much money to be spent on this vehicle to get it to a point where a correct restoration can begin. Frankly, I'd rather start a rusty basket case than this. At least that way it wouldn't be like peeling back an onion of hidden surprises.

Yeah.. i asked myself.. if thats the case, but then the beam just over the muffler in the chassis should also have been parallel to the muffler? O Well anyway... your totally happy with it and thats the important thing! It has become a beautiful car!

The door gaps scare me more than the floor pan. Not sure how to deal with those.

This discussion got me wondering how much dirt and debris had collected in this area on my car. Since I'm working on a restoration, now was as good a time as any for the fenders to come off. While taking some before pictures it struck me that removing the mud guards in the front wheel wells makes it very easy to inspect and clean the area that @inline6is concerned about. In fact all that is really required is to remove the small rubber flap at the bottom of the mud guards. I checked and it is possible to remove and reinstall the mud guards with the fenders on, there are only three M6 hex head screws holding them on. The upper screw is the most difficult to reinstall with the fender on, but using a m6 screw with a point made it not to bad. The rubber flap is easy as it is held on with two sheet metal screws. I used a magnet to hold it in place while reinstalling.

That 6 is a typo i'm sure.. the small 240z brake booster's are 7 inches or 178 mm. diam.

I agree with Charles.

Looks like the passenger side to me. He has several photos. Seems like I saw the driver's side in another one of his listings. Whatever---the short scalloped edge profile matches what John posted he was looking for originally. Ask him thru e-bay.

Ekkkkk. Those pictures say many things. Not sure a frame straightener would be able to fix this without some surgery.

Or run a bolt on it and put it in the vise and straighten it. Clamp the bolt, bend a little at a time

Chas, you’re the best...thank you trying. I thought I found one, paid for it and then got an email saying they had already sold it and they refunded my money. Interesting website, I have never heard of but they sell all sorts of vintage original Z parts and are very responsive. https://maseraticompound.com/search?q=280z Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi John, I will call the guy I gave my valance panels to. He is still building his 280 and as far as I know he decided on a air-dam and has not used them.

I think unzipping the doors would be harder. If I had to guess they did the repair on jacks stands without removing the drivetrain. Thereby distorting the chassis

I don't know anything about the draw-down hatch mechanisms, but I know a guy who's been working on putting in a linear actuators on his (shaved locks) 260Z. I think he's on his second, no third. Fourth maybe? revision of the project. It's not as easy as you might think. @GGRIII The doors were pretty easy. The hatch has been a PITA.

It looks like they replaced the dog legs and didn't check the door fit while they did it

Red on(in?) white 72. A "survivor" by my standards. Looks pretty good. Very little salt used over here and when it is it gets washed away by gallons of roadspray pretty quickly. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-205/

Ya, we pulled the injectors and fuel rail and used the ECU. I suspected a few clogged injectors (I knew that they were all opening or at least "clicking") but when they all fired properly and filled the graduated cylinders equally, it obviously wasn't that. The injectors on his engine look relatively new - green top hose type - but they need to be flow tested on a real bench and perhaps resized. The ultra lean condition immediately disappeared when I installed some "known value" injectors. Young Kurtz has done an great job with help and advice from you guys! His undercarriage looks amazing and he has accomplished a great deal. We're going to finish up a little engine work for him and he'll have a nice 280Z to cruise around in.

I don't know about the aftermarket stuff, but the original OEM ZX sensors are a little different in the way they mount... On the Z version, the brass body portion is all one piece and the electrical guts are crimped to the body to finish the assembly. In contrast, on the ZX version, the tightening nut spins independent of the sensor body. The "body" portion is two distinct and separate pieces. Why does that matter? Because if you use a ZX version with the spinning nut in a wet location like the Z thermostat housing, it will probably leak through the seam between the body and the nut. You could probably use a Z version in the side hole in a P79 or P90 head, but I would be wary of the converse of using a ZX version in a Z thermostat housing. That pic above of the aftermarket ZX sensor looks like it's made pretty much the same as the Z version, so who knows? Oh, and the connector key is in different locations between the two of them. Not an insurmountable issue, but something to be aware of.

The main reason I let them know is so that they don't have a problem that goes on for months or years, damaging their business, because they did not know about it. They've been around since land lines but things are changing. Trying to help them keep up.

In MSAs defense they are the best overall place to buy Z parts, in my opinion. They actually answer the phone, are very friendly and willing to answer questions. It’s hard to be good all they time, I’m just frustrated because I was just left in the dark for about 26 days, waiting on a part to be coated. A part I could do without but not the other stuff. Oh and try calling zcardepot….they never pick up, you get voicemail and it can take days for a email reply. Both places have a good selection of parts and competitive prices. I default to MSA because I can talk to a human if I have a question and they’ve all been super nice.

@Joseph@TheZStore @Greg@TheZStore @James@TheZStore @zcardepot.com

Hope you guys don't mind, I'm going to "at" the MSA guys and ZCD. ZCD never responds but I think that he does read the posts. The guys at MSA usually respond, and seem to address issues. The penny-saving on shipping seems like a new one though. @Joseph@TheZStore @Greg@TheZStore @James@TheZStore

$18,200!!!!!!!! I'm about to lose religion. If they made it brand new today it wouldnt go for this.