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I understood that you meant PS sheet material and not PS foam, which is used, among other things, for the shallow trays that hold cuts of meat in the supermarket here in the U.S. I spent the bulk of my chemistry R&D career in the plastics and polymer industry and a lot of that was making material recommendations for all sorts of applications from automotive to telecommunications to medical devices to aircraft interiors to farm equipment. In my opinion, plain PS will likely be too brittle in this glove box application, particularly it there will be substantial items like tire pressure gauges or pocket knives banging around when you're driving on a twisty road. You will be better off using ABS (acrylonitrile/butadiene/styrene copolymer), which has much better impact performance compared to PS because of the butadiene (rubber) content. It's working temperature for thermoforming will not be too much higher than for PS. I'll have initial dimensions and a sketch for you here later today so you can get started fabricating a plug. A proper drawing will come this weekend.

Some of the final details completed. Original hubcaps were cleaned up and painted. For being used on the Z for so long it’s amazing how clean they were. Dash area is just about wrapped up with only a few minor items left.

So nobody wonders why I said that? Nobody is even going to ask? What? Am I the only person out there in the whole world that looked up the part number stamped on the handle on Jim's awesome transmission spinner device? Just me?

Oh.. so funny! Now i know again why i'm on my own... no missis to say it can't be my way.... That's also.. i think... why there are so much LAT relationships in the Netherlands.. (and a shortage of houses! ) ( I don't need to explane what LAT is? as it is a english abbreviation of: living apart together.. and yeah.. Dutch is full of english words.. and abbrev's ! ) I investigated (googled 😃) a bit and 45% !!! of the Dutch population is single! On 7,8 million households there are 3 million single households !!! so.. i'm not alone!

I can't wait! You know it's not going to run first try, right? You know that, right? I'm no expert on such things, but here's what I would do. 0) Make sure you have a fire extinguisher and a spotter/helper with you. 1) disable the fuel injection system and pull the spark plugs. Crank it over a bunch like that first. Just to get the oil circulating and listen for grossly incorrect noises, etc. To disable the FI system, I would disconnect the fusible link that runs to the positive battery post. And to look for oil pressure, you should be able to pull the oil cap on the valve cover and watch for oil coming out of the holes in the camshaft lobes as you (your helper/spotter) crank the engine. 2) Once you've got oil flowing, put a timing light on it and you might be able to get it spinning fast enough on the starter to get your ignition timing somewhat close to target. 3) Then once you've got oil flowing (and maybe timing close), pull the starter solenoid wire off and just hang on the key for a little bit and listen to the fuel pump running. I can hear the difference in sound of the pump when the load changes on a full pressurized rail. 4) Then once you've got oil, spark timing, and fuel... Put the plugs in, reconnect the starter solenoid wire on, reconnect the FI fusible link, cross your fingers... And give it a go. And call me so I can hear it running in the background!!!

Thanks for the "good reads". several very helpful comments. one of which was making sure that the fuel pump arm is riding on the offset cam lobe and not below it. one of my concerns was whether i had just incorrectly installed it in the block. i'll probably still remove the valve cover just to learn more. Thanks to all. i'll report back when i fix it.

StwveJ, I found a pic I took before I tore everything apart and found that all three black wires were grounded to the chassis. Another pic I can see the yellow wire tucking down under the thermostat. I forgot I took those pics. Thanks again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hahaha!!!! I also rotated the pic so I could get a better view of the number.....

@CanTechZ Front is 6,76mm and rear 3,85 mm acc. to the glass manufacturer. I measured the following front: 6,52 mm and rear 3,66 mm on my 78" 280Z. I don´t know exactly where they got that information, but as I´m aware off there where just so many glass thicknesses available and together with the intermediate foil it comes down to the values they supplied.

Interesting, mine is definitely closer to 7mm thick, and to the best of my knowledge is original, I've owned the car since 1978. Here are a couple of pics while measuring. First one is lower left corner, 0.267" (6.78mm), near the Nissan OEM marking. And the second is 0.273" (6.93mm) at the upper edge near center. Possibly 6mm is a minimum tolerance?

As i'm in the proces of putting in a clean L28 in my 280zx.. i see your L28 has no heatshield under the inlet manifold? Is that not neccesary? Maybe you can make one? cleaned up parts (incl. heatshields)

Crack the drain on bottom of the radiator and run clean water through the top to flush out anything. It'll run hot on 1st start for a minute or two then the temp will start to come down when all the new starts to wear in. Keep the hose running through during that part, as per Tom Monroe's How to book.

Typical dutch young girl but.. no never seen her.. Much to young for yah! (or me) ( I could put a picture of a granny here but i don't want to mess up this topic haha)

still the original "Denke" ? Thanks

Evidently that number wasn't Obvious to the rest of us 😉

Well actually, according to Bob Bitchinn, the answer is "two". Apparently he rolls big joints.

LOL!

@Seppi72 I didn´t mean polistyrene (the white porous stuff that ´s used in packaging, etc..) but styrene plastic, the material most car and airplane models are made of. I think each material goes by diferent names according to each country. Anyway I´ll be very grateful if you can supply the measurements. I really don´t know if what I intend to do will be succesful so I can´t make any promises, , but I´m willing to try and report back here what the results are. Obviously if the benefit can be shared with others all the better.

The "relay" is the voltage regulator. The W/B wire is for the field. It should inject current into the alternator when the voltage is low. A failure to produce an output from the alternator could be a problem within the voltage regulator or the alternator. What makes you think I don't like that grotesque abomination called the Interlock Relay Unit? Have you ever buckled up an inanimate object in the passenger seat because the car would not start otherwise? Seatbelt interlocks came from a push by Ford to make itself look good to the NHTSA about getting people to use their seatbelts more. While Ford had already designed and debugged their system, the NHTSA mandated the implementation of a seatbelt interlock for all cars in the 74 model year. With the relatively short notice most automakers implemented the rules poorly. The NHTSA quickly retired the rule. Here is some reading on the subject: https://www.allpar.com/threads/the-return-of-the-seat-belt-interlock-crazy-rule-or-money-saver.236643/. People found ways to defeat these systems because a faulty interlock would make it where you couldn't drive your car. There is an emergency button under the hood on the passenger fender. There's a picture below. In its early life, the button was red. It's an annoyance to have intact, but it won't affect charging.

Thanks, I appreciate it. It's been a fun process.

Okay...Cliff you’re right if I spent that much on taillights I’d be sleeping in the garage. My whole car cost less that 3000 Euros when I bought it. I guess I can be happy with my US spec red tail lights. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That looks good Ferg! I've had a few cold ones too so we're looking through the same goggles as this guy.

Thanks Chas, I’ll read that tonight over a cold beer. So I decided to mock up the Xenon Valance on the car with clamps hoping it will take the original form and stop looking twisted . I’ll let it sit like this for a few days and see how it looks . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk