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When I googled it, I was served up some “wife pleasers”!!!! https://www.redbubble.com/i/throw-blanket/1975-Datsun-280Z-by-FromThe8Tees/66717202.16D0B

That's "Resurrected Classics". I've helped them out a couple of times with electrical issues on cars. https://resurrectedclassics.com/ Max is a member here, but I don't recall his username.

While I am hardly an expert on the topic, I know enough to know that's exactly what you don't do when breaking in a motor. I'd be questioning the credibility of the engine builder if he told me that, and would likely ignore his instructions.

Cody especially!

Charles & Cody would give the Dutch a run for their money....

Cool. I think I have a loose volt/fuel gauge around here to snap some pics. Just to make sure what you have there is the same as what I have here. I think that with the mix-match of years/harnesses/parts, etc, we need a solid point of reference. I'll see what I can find.

Im ok with the babying part to some degree, but I agree on accelerating and decelerating to set the rings. The idle part wouldn't be my choice. What kind of warranty is he offering? Motors are motors. His shouldn't need a special procedure compared to someone elses. @Diseazd What is yours or Eijis preffered break in method?

Ha hA😅 ha🤣 HA😂...... Must be a UK thing.......and shouldn't that come "FromThe7Tees"

good recipe for more rebuild work.

The paper books are cool, I have one. I still mostly use the website for looking things up. It is also free.

It passed the smoke test. Well, there was smoke coming out around the gasket because the exhaust manifold wasn't bolted down where it shares studs with the intake. Anyway, I buttoned it back up, and I'll be testing soon to see if I hear anything that I shouldn't with regards to an exhaust leak.

https://www.carpartsmanual.com/

The point of making the measurements was to learn how to use a multimeter to discern between the L (lamp or the switched source) & S (sense or battery voltage) terminals on an internally regulated alternator. With the positive probe on the meter on the S terminal and common on the B terminal, you will see resistance. In this case I'm using a ZX alternator for the demonstration. However, if you swap the probes, the diodes in voltage regulator will block the resistance reading between the S terminal and B terminal. This meter reads "OL" or open line when the circuit is open. There are no diodes between the B terminal and the L terminal. So the reading get with the positive probe on the L terminal will be about the same as when the common probe is on the L terminal. In your second photo, the common (black) probe is on the S terminal. Frankly, I would connect the wire from the S terminal to the cross of the T terminal on the stock wiring. Connect the vertical on the T connector to the L terminal. Again, you can get the connector from Vintage Connections. Get the jumper plug from Motorsport Auto. Hook them up. You are done.

https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=280z+online+catalog&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8 I literally googled your thread title. All of these are good places. Check out the fourth on the list. Best of luck with your car. 😬

You say they are theoretical but let’s be honest stealing a Z is no different than stealing any 70’s vehicle. There isn’t anything particularly unique about the design that makes it stand out from a ease of theft. So I’m not sure where you are going on this? It’s not like you’re trying to steal a Tesla or something with a advanced stock anti theft device. In the 70’s you pretty much had kill switches for the ignition and crude alarms. It you want to be creative put a cut off valve on a inconspicuous portion on a fuel hose. Nobody will be looking for that. Open the hood, turn the valve 90 degrees and walk away. There are several areas to hide a valve like the in the engine bay.

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Very fortunate they did not snap off at the head. Still a lot of fun ahead once the housing is removed. Back and forth with small increments may have prevented them snapping off. Had about a 50% luck ratio trying that method. As you know sometimes it just isn’t going to budge….

Great video! I forgot I'd seen that before Picked up 2.5% with ignition upgrade 5.7% with EFI At the end of the video in their summary, they say that the numbers don't tell the whole story. Mid range power is better. Drivability is better. Sounds better and fuel economy should be better. That all sounds nice

Well I'm glad I found this thread, I was about to adjust my clutch by disconnecting the yoke and unscrewing it from the rod!