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She’s alive! Didn’t take much to bring it to life. Slight rattle from the resonator in the background. A part from that sounds healthy, good oil pressure and no leaks. Few tweaks and she’ll be able to move under her own power and begin the break in process.

IIRC its the unleaded fuel that required the use of a steel valve seat. But if you go to a larger valve wont you need to modify the seats anyway? Or is the intention to just cut out the old seats a little more? I think larger valve would also need the block to have a relief cut done to it..... There's a good book you should look at `how to modify your nissan/datsun OHC engine`.

I think the packed mud is a clue that the car spent time on a dirt road. The mud likely packed between the coils as well as below them and caused coil bind when subjected to full jounce travel over the rough dirt road. The owner likely overloaded the car often with kids and stuff in the trunk making the situation worse. Once a coil broke, the car would sit lower and when not repaired, the next weakest spot failed from being subjected to unusual forces from the spring position. The rust might be minor, but it did likely factor in a bit.

If the spark plugs were not torqued to spec, that could give you that result. If the same plugs have been taken out and put back many times, the sealing washers could be compromised. However, there could be some contributing factors, like failing oil rings. In addition to what @jonbillsuggested, do a compression test per the directions in the factory service manual.

Larger valves will require larger seats too. And then you'll need to notch the bores on the 2.4 block to accept the larger 2.8 valves.

Hey John, we’re you going to put that FPR on before you drop it in. Probably a lot easier than fighting with the FI hose leaning over the car. Pretty tight fit.

Thanks ZH, I checked and she’s flush and flat. Got the throw out bearing install and the transmission mounted. Put an old nasty valve cover on for install so I don’t booger up my nice one. Doing some final torque checks and marking the nut heads so I know which ones I’ve done and them I’m ready to drop this puppy in. Still haven’t pulled the drive shaft out. I have 3 guys so I’m hoping it’s possible to slide the yoke in during the install but we shall see. Tomorrow might be the day. I also pulled the billet fuel rail off. It was interfering with the throttle j-hook and I don’t have the FPR other than the stock one. This ZX rail I had powder coated so I’ll use it for now and maybe forever. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Congratulations!

They kept driving it after the first break! The spring kept self deteriating. Wouldn’t want to install a new spring when you still have 2/3 of a spring left! Those 510’s are tough little bitches!!!!👍

Great to have you back Zedyone…..glad you’ve been spending time with Zedytwo!! 🥳

Welcome back. You never left, the Z-Force is strong within you and you can simply no longer resist it’s call. Resistance is futile. No wait…

check and confirm its not water/coolant. Take the spark plugs out - are they coroded? what do the tips look like? (post a pic) have you had the valve cover off? it could be oil thats run down from the top. try cleaning it all up running again to see if more emerges.

Stainless swirled valves From the description: If you are serious contact Eiji at Datsun Spirit.

Couldn't say it better myself. Missed ya for too long. 2019 post by you

Welcome back Zedy. You're our only hope.

On the flywheel and plate - check that the plate cover did not get warped when you torqued it down. It's probably fine, there's some flex but if it is significant you might consider replacing to avoid chatter. On the other stuff - wealth gap increasing, billionaires taking joyrides in to space while their workers barely make it, Marx and Engels. You don't have to take a side to understand what's happening. But people should understand what's happening before they take a side. It's been studied and the things happening are not unexpected. Free market competition is one facet of a complicated picture. Winner take all just means lots of losers.

I'm in the "if they want..." group. Repo guys can get anyting. So with their knowledge and equipment anybodies stuff is steal-able. To add, my car lives in a garage and is never left alone at car shows, isn't parked as a normal car. My Camry is my DD. The only thing more important is my dog.

I wish it were true that is that easy to get recruits. I was briefed once by USMC manpower HQ and they said 82% of age eligible citizens do not meet the minimum qualifications to join the military. No HS Diploma, drug usage, law offenses,, weight, medical, allergies, psychological and then entry test scores. It’s that bad! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The nuts (use two 12mm wrenches, not 10mm) need to be closer to the slave body, effectively making the pushrod shorter. The manual says to back them way off, then tighten just to the point that all play is gone, then back off 1.5 turns. That will give the "proper" amount of free play at the clutch fork. I've found that I prefer a bit more play at the fork than that, generally backing off 2-2.5 turns. But that is just my personal preference.

Ok, todays challenge is to help me understand how the following broken coil spring situation may have happended. First, a picture is worth a thousand words. 1969 510 rear springs. First two are left and right springs “pieces” on the floor after extraction. Third is the left rear as I saw it initially.

Here are my original 510 front springs,