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Great idea! And just what size heat gun did you use to shrink the shrink wrap?

1&6 fuel in 2&7 float vents to air cleaner 3&5 coolant lines 4 vacuum line to brake booster 8 positive crankcase ventilation

My vintage SK throttle bodies look pretty darn amazing after vapor blasting. Casting quality is good, not as good as a Mikuni carb. They should look amazing on my 240z. These are late 70s or early 80s. Now time to re zinc all the parts and rebuild them! FullSizeRender.mov

This forum is probably one of the few where you could have an oil discussion without it ending up as a flame war. I thought the "synthetic vs dinosaur oil in old engines" debate had been resolved years ago. There are some guys who used the first formulations of synthetic oils and had there engines leak still claiming that it's bad for old engines but I think the general consensus of car guys agree that was only the case with the first synthetic oils. At least that seems to be the case in the forums on bobistheoilguy. I've been a lurker on that site for a few years and it's quite something to see the sheer volume that has been written about oil.

Back in the day, pulling a spring from the advance weights for quicker advance rate was a common tweek if you were going to spend the day at the track. Is it possible that the PO didn't reinstall it?

You should have used the ribbed version with the reservoir tip 👌

When I have a winter project planned in the garage my poor Z has to spend the winter in the storage tent, I don't like doing in because of all the dust and mice. So this year I bought a big roll of the white shrink wrap that they use for winterizing boats and now she's all snug for the winter. I could have worked all the wrinkles out but I didn't see any reason.

Clearing a path is a major step for me in my garage. Congrats!

Waiting on a part for the waste oil furnace. A transformer that makes the spark for igniting the oil, 120 volts in, 10,000 volts out. Well, when it works like it should. Mine doesn't, and the package guy will have a new one here next week. So I got a wild hair and decided to rearrange the shop a bit, do some cleaning. I cleared a path, and dragged HLS305957, build date 6/70 out and assess its condition. Managed to get it out and have a cursory look, but need to move all the stuff into the slot it was in and then free up the right rear brake so I can roll it up on the lift. I got this car not long after the race Z and the brown 72. A friend of a friend connected me with a guy who was under threat of divorce if he didn't clean house. I can't remember if I got it free, or paid a couple hundred bucks for it. It was last registered 1991. The original color was yellow, and it has those stupid dealer installed rub rails on the sides. One of the previous owners changed it to red. It was later painted red oxide primer, the badges removed (why didn't they take off those stupid rub rails?), and an attempt was made to graft the headlight buckets to the fenders. The front marker/turnsignal assemblies are missing, and someone has gotten creative and uses stainless lockwire (like is used to secure assemblies in aircraft) to suspend the bulbs in the middle of the openings. The bumpers are trashed, the rear looking like someone had a trailer hitch on it at one time. I'll get some pictures up, after I get the shop cleaned back up, and the brake freed up. OK, lunch is over, back out to the shop.

@One Way, I think I have a unicorn you might be interested in. Back when I had my 280z it was missing the D/S hood vent drip pan so when I was at our local Z clubs swapmeet I picked up a pan for my car. When I got it home I could not figure out how to mount it, it wouldn't fit, it was then that I realized that some clever guy had made an identical pan for the passenger side. Here it is, it's very well done. It is useless to me as I don't own that car anymore, it's all yours for the price of shipping.

If he doesn't leave the nozzles dropped, chokes on. I learned that the hard not to smell fuel in my upstairs apartment way. I moved my 240s around and left the chokes pulled back. Bad, bad choice. My garage apartment was a gas fumed bomb.

New valve seals and checking guide wear would be my next step. It's possible the #4 seal was damaged when it was installed.

Interesting Jim, with my car being a UN, Only 12 cars older than @240dkw's UN car, I thought I would check my dizzy for a painted on number. I found that mine is a D606-52, but the number is engraved, not painted. Lot's of small variances with our cars. Cheers, Mike

Well I don't have electrical power out near the storage tent so basically I did exactly what GI Joe is doing only the flame is smaller. In the pic you can see the blue flame in the bottom right corner, I kept the flame 6-7" away and always keep the flame moving. With an electric heat gun you have great control and can chase or push the wrinkles away as the wrap shrinks, the torch doesn't have that directional control so it takes a little longer. Once the wrap is tight against the paint you don't go back there, I only used it on the baggy areas.

This is the drip tray which mounts under the hood and left ( driver ) side hood vent on the 77- 78 280z vented hood. There was never a similiar piece for the right side but one can be custom fabricated out of a left side hood vent.

I ran Kendall GT-1 in an old 911 I had. My mechanic swore by that stuff for air cooled motors. He said prop planes used it too. I think it was synthetic or a synthetic blend. I know it was $10 a quart in the '90s and for a 13 quart oil change that was one more reason I went back to Datsun Zs. I've always heard you can go from dino oil to synthetic but once you use synthetic you can't go back to dinosaur fossils???

In this one I edge ever closer to having the complete shell stripped....

Thanks X That sounds like good advice, I will remember that one, initially I tried to weld it with the frame upright but was blowing holes like a dolphin...

https://www.google.com/search?client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&ei=zeyTX_PtEanO5gK726CwCw&q=head+on+valve+spring+compressor+classiczcars.com+&oq=head+on+valve+spring+compressor+classiczcars.com+&gs_lcp=ChNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwEAMyBQghEKABOgQIABBHOgUIABDJAzoGCAAQFhAeOggIABAWEAoQHjoFCCEQqwI6CAghEBYQHRAeOgcIIRAKEKABUPI3WLlWYKdoaABwAXgAgAG9AYgBnQmSAQMwLjeYAQCgAQHIAQjAAQE&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp#scso=_7-yTX-2qF8us5wKCg6CAAg12:3041.333251953125

The E31 closeness to the bottom edge makes me think the 31k head has been cut too. Mine doesn't look as close as that one and it definitely had a cut. Could be the angle of the photo though so it's just a guess. Like Zed said "Dog pile on". Everyone is piling on so I thought I would join in too.

Sunlight coming through the trees.

"Do it in a Datsun"

Sorry, I miss spoke, I have the non-emissions dizzy, 606-52. I saw the date in the first post and got it in my mind that it was a UN

Okay after i did the spark plug boot to ground on cyl 4 i could only notice blue spark. So the problem is not electrical.

Amazing what pain one would go through to get a little back in the day. 🤪

Honey! I shrunk the Z!

both weights are constrained by the one spring - the unsprung weight can only move out in its slot as the advance plate rotates, and the advance plate advancing is resisted by the spring on the other weight. thus a single spring has a faster advance curve than 2 springs.

You all must be a bunch of youngsters, our family ride was a 61 Bel Air wagon, 283 with 3 on the tree. Got my license in this baby in 1967. When I started dating the folks sold it and got a 1967 MG Midget that they let me take on dates. They must have known the old adage of "accidents in the back seat cause kids"!

My only reason for watching that show after school was Susan Dey.

In high school one of my good friends had an Oldsmobile VistaCruiser with a big block (455?) in it. That thing was a tank, but lots of top end if you had room to run. Remember burying the speedometer needle more than once with 5 or 6 (or 8 or 9?) of us punks in it. It is a wonder we all survived some of the stupid things we did back then.

The repair parts I ordered last week all arrived this week. All look great and top marks to all three suppliers for delivering faster than promised. From Zedd Findings - LH and RH front frame rails, From Auto Panel Solutions (UK) - LH and RH outer repair panels above T/C box, From KF Vintage JDM - LH floor panel and full rear frame rail, toe board, rear floor repair section and RH full rear frame rail an RH toe board Here is a mock up of the LH parts,

Well the compressor came. It’s 28” deep instead of the 23” their webpage says. So it’s a tight fit. My wife isn’t happy:) Its pretty darn nice. Internal pumps and such are all weg, which I like. I am hopeful this is the last Compressor I ever have to buy.