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Well whadda ya know! I've had a lot of fun on here with you guys. Whizzed off most but helped a few too, be it cars or a laugh. One of my best buddies told me the other day I could get away with saying anything, being from Alabama and an alcoholic. What's the world coming to? Likes and dislikes...yeesh. COMMUNITY REPUTATION 3,003

In an effort to reduce my low/mid range reversion issues, I added some 70mm ITG made velocity stacks / horns / trumpets (take your pick)! Strangely they aren’t as loud as the stock back plate with built in trumpets, but they sound deeper and the in-gear / midrange throttle response is noticeably keener. Can’t really tell any difference at the top-end. The car still sprints eagerly into the limiter @6.5krpm. The finish on them is pretty poor!! Having de-burred them for test fitting, I’m going to shine them up next on the inside for smooth laminar flow. I’m going to start playing with the exhaust system next to cure / reduce the reversion issues. I can still get the AFR on WOT in 3rd to hit 9.5:1 [emoji33] @ 3.3-3.6krpm !

There is also these guys in Quebec, http://www.alfaparts.net/dat280.html. They make each panel by hand, English wheel, bead roller and hammer/dolly. They are making two rear quarter panels for my 510 right now.

I've done my time in the nightlife. Gained nothing but memories and some periodic bumps on my dingaling. I'd rather talk to you guys and gain more knowledge.

Zedd Findings has always been a quality source of repro parts. Now we have KF Vintage JDM (and I can personally vouch for both their product and their customer service). The (important) surprise is Auto Panel Solutions from Britain. These are previously unobtanium panels that are being delivered a hi-fi by a previously-unknown supplier. RIP, Tabco.

The repair parts I ordered last week all arrived this week. All look great and top marks to all three suppliers for delivering faster than promised. From Zedd Findings - LH and RH front frame rails, From Auto Panel Solutions (UK) - LH and RH outer repair panels above T/C box, From KF Vintage JDM - LH floor panel and full rear frame rail, toe board, rear floor repair section and RH full rear frame rail an RH toe board Here is a mock up of the LH parts,

got it fixed. put some teflon on plug. There was a small rubber O ring slightly inside. It was causing leak. Once i removed it and tightened....no leak

I would remove both to service one, I'm old and it's much less difficult than under the car

I understood the original question to be "If both engine and transmission are out, is it better to install the engine and transmission as a unit, or drop the engine in first and then the transmission". In that case I would always do them as a unit unless something (maneuvering room, availability of a leveler) prevents it. If only the engine or the transmission needs to be removed, then yeah, only remove that - no need to remove both just to service one.

Yesterday I removed the black vinyl from my transmission tunnel and the bulkhead behind the seats. I also removed the insulating material from the firewall and the jute insulation from the transmission tunnel, with careful use of a scraper while gently lifting all the jute came off cleanly with out much damage. I'm very happy that all of the insulating materials and vinyl can be reused. Next I will be removing the tar mats from the floors to inspect for rust. Before removal I am following the lead of @inline6and creating templates of the tar mats so that I can make replacements to use at re-assembly. Here is a pic of the first one, If time permits I will be creating cad profiles of the tar mats that would be suitable to make printable templates. If I get to this I will upload them to cad file section in our downloads area.

Watching the news about the crazy plot to kidnap the Governor of Michigan and noticed the lamp behind the guy talking. Check out the plugs in the base.

No, I take them off, and they go in a drawer in one of my toolboxes.

Okay, had my grandson Jake over to help put the engine and trans back into the car. I made some longer sling brackets so the lift chain would clear the valve cover and curve inside the smog air galley tube. Went well, took about 90 minutes. Thought I measured right, but no. That extra ~1" distance the 73 bumper sticks out was an issue. The hydraulic jack on lift was over the top of the bumper, which should have come off. Had to push engine back a bit to land on motor mount pad. New early style bumpers in the rafters ready to install, need to get some bumper brackets. Right side motor mount bolts were the biggest challenge, and of course the drive shaft bolts are always fun. Time lapse video below. Hopefully startup in a couple weeks.

Thanks dude. Funny how we can be critical ourselves - to me it’s still a bit messy ;)

ROFLMAO!!!!!!!

Well Mr Site, that is a heck of a lot of posts!! You need to drink out more often brother [emoji13]

OK, a quick and dirty cell phone pic. The long one with 2 holes bolts on the right front side of the cylinder head just behind the fuel pump. The small one with one hole goes on the last exhaust manifold stud on the left rear of the head. My engine sling has tabs on the ends of the chains, and I use a 5/16” bolt, 2 fender washers, and a wing nut on each one to attach to the lifting fittings.

I'll try to get some photos soon. I also promised @Captain Obvious photos of the underside of my 72, but have been working lots of overtime lately, and can't seem to budget time for that, so bear with me.

About the altitude compensator... All of the documentation I have indicates that the altitude compensator is an ON-OFF switch affair, and not an analog resistance device. I don't have one of those devices here for confirmation, but that's what the docs say. (Ref 77 FSM EF-15 and the 1980 FI bible page 85.) I wouldn't worry too much about a dramatic change in engine operation when the switch changed state. They can handle that in the electronics with smoothing and hysteresis. As for the stuff inside the altitude switch... Don't knock that thing around too much. That "spring" inside is actually a hermetically sealed bellows chamber. It's very similar in construction and operation to the bellows in the throttle pull-pull off and the BCDD. Here's a thread that's about the BCDD, but there are some good pics of the BCDD altitude compensating bellows that they used inside there. Looks like this: Here's the thread where those pics came from: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58748-info-on-bcdd-boost-controlled-deceleration-device/

I'd forgotten about Wolf Steel. If the quality and fit are there, their S30 rear quarter looks like tremendous value. Cdn$300 = US$225. Looking forward to your report on the 510 quarter panels after you take delivery.

Some of that is Wilwood comp pads and the other and primary source is the left LCA (just) touching the rotor under heavy braking. I moved the LCA pivot points to reduce bumpsteer so take a look again and see how little I need to saw the steering wheel back and forth. LCA has had a visit with the grinder (again) but it can't be tested until I get to The Glen next week.

I agree. Any of the three ways are a piece of cake compared to removing and replacing those parts on most cars.

or

That's a fan belt pulley base like ours that go over the water pump. Good for you Zed Head! The www.com is your bitch.

I'm waiting for the "just right" to hit and go mow my lawn so here's a joke I heard today for the first time. Sorry if it's an oldie but I'm way down South. Things take longer to get here. (there's a joke right there) Q: What Is The Speed Limit Of Sex? A: 68, At 69 You Have To Turn Around!

Years ago, at a party, a biker showed up. He would walk up to a gal and say, “I’ve got your name tattooed on my d***.” One gal challenged him, so he whipped it out. Sure enough, “Your Name” was tattooed on his unit. What an idiot.

The earlys can sell for good money. Got any pictures? Check your serial numbers, numbers-matching means much to many. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-126/

Admitting a screw- up is a nice way to help someone else avoid it. All of us have brain farts on occasion.

We all do stuff like that, some admit it, some don't.

I read your first post and wanted to reply but didn't have a clue. Those rags and paper towels are common problem sources, form what I've seen. You should keep a count of your paper towels like a surgical team with sponges, and verify all accounted for after a procedure.

Oops! Sorry! Memory like a goldfish. Well that, and I kinda wander in and out of on-line consciousness. I'll put something together. I just took some pics.

Spent some time yesterday cleaning the dash and some of the ventilation system parts to ready for storage. I am storing select parts on shelves in my office the rest will in my crawl space and organized on shelves and bins in my garage. I under estimated the space required but I'm doing my best to be organized so that I won't have to rely to much on my memory when I eventually get on to re-assembly.

After recently removing my exhaust header I was able read the casting number on my E31 block, The casting number is located low on the left side, just back from center and in raised characters reads "0630I". Using the decoding method suggested by @katsthat would make it 50 years old today. Here is the old topic from back in 2004, where this was discussed:

My next task is to remove the instrument panel/dash. I have a dash from a 12/70 parts car (pictured here) that I used to build a rack to safely store the uncracked dash from my car. I will be storing it on a newly installed shelf in my office, out of harms way.