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Yep, I documented the C-2 connector in my notes to my customer. I try to have a work plan ready for paying customers so I don't rack up a bunch of hours on random diagnostics. The white/red wire feeds many fuses in the fuse box. My customer had another shop put in a disconnect switch due to a battery drain, so I used my ammeter to track that down. (Fix the problem, and don't use a bunch of band aids.) I traced it to that branch in the fuse box, and we removed fuses to see when the current draw ceased. That took a while because the draw would come and go somewhat randomly. Eventually I found that the passenger side door switch was wonky. There wasn't easy access to disconnect that switch, so we just pulled the fuse for now since he was not worried about the dome light or other lights on that circuit. I'll have to look at the other circuits in C-2 to see if there are other indicators of corrosion. The terminal for the parking light circuit could have overheated at that connector. It's not like I haven't seen damage to a lot of fuse boxes and wiring for the parking lights. The nice thing is that he is willing to get his hands dirty and does not mind providing assistance since that reduces the number of hours I charge. He seems willing to learn, too. He was thrilled that I was willing to inspect his car with him present and give him an idea of what issues he may have. What worries me, though, is that the rear brake MC reservoir was almost empty. I added fluid and bled the rear brakes, but the car is still HEAVILY biased toward the front brakes. I didn't have time to bleed at the MC, and I plan on looking at his front brakes on his next visit anyway. If it's the valve between the front and back brakes, that will be a challenge. The rubber hoses on the back need to be replaced, and I wouldn't be surprised if the front brake hoses are in the same condition. (Heck, ballooning in the rubber hoses could have caused the problems I felt in his brakes. There are many signs of bad mechanics or idiot previous owners working on the car. It will take some money to get things right (and safe). I just want this guy to be able to enjoy his car. Somehow I get the feeling that my retirement job will be fixing S30 electrical systems in the Atlanta area.

I hear you. This 240 is the 5th one I have had, and try to keep them mostly original, but this 240 is my first rotisserie job, and will be a life long keeper. With that said, it will be my kids problem to deal with when I'm gone, and since I just turned 47, it will hopefully be a few years. Maybe this is a good time to say I'm making a Fairlady tribute as well out of it. Badging, fender mirrors, D hubcaps, JDM tail lights, etc. I love the Fairlady, but hate the right hand drive.

CO said the injector wires, not spark plugs. You can just move one plug over to the injector next to it and swap them. They all fire at the same time. If it's the ECU then the clean plug will get dirty. Make sure you swap a clean cylinder injector plug with a dirty cylinder injector plug. Switch injector 3 with injector 4, for example. 4 should foul, if it's an electronics problem.

Cliff, you are truly the official librarian on this forum. Thanks for finding that. I want to convert to deck because my deck is in rough shape and it’s easier to build a flat one over getting that decking to curve properly. Low priority as I need get her on the road. I now move in the new pace on the 31st. And the Z arrives shorty after. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I believe in you! You're going to be fine. It will take some time though. Hang in there buddy. ❤

The choke cables were the problem with the difficult first start. The PO had installed the round tops, and also put a mounting plate under the center console to strengthen the choke lever attachment. However, the mounting plate was actually catching on the screw holding the choke lever, keeping the lever from moving more than half way. I don't think it would ever go all the way forward, either. I was told that this was just the way it was when switching to the round tops while using the flat top choke cables and lever. A little playing around with the nozzles showed me that they never went all the way down when the choke was on. In fact, they barely moved. Basically all the choke was doing was moving the throttle plate a bit. I had to take apart the center console and trim the mounting plate for clearance. I've now got full range of motion on the chokes and the cables are set right. As for float levels, I set them using some clear tubes attached to the drain holes. Set them so that the fuel is 23 mm below the top of the float bowl with the car running. Is that right? Maybe it's too low, because now that I can actually use the chokes, I discovered that pulling the chokes on just a little will cure the the feeling of missing or stuttering at constant throttle between say 1800-2500 RPM. Noticing this, I turned down the nozzles a half turn (now at 3 full turns down), and it runs perfect. Maybe I'll get the colortune out and see what it looks like now, but I hate to mess with it any further. As for the oil in the carbs, I found several recommendations for 20w-50 oil. On a whim, I switched it out for 3 in 1 oil, which also gets lots of recommendations and is definitely lighter weight. Not sure it makes any difference. I think the real difference was getting the chokes working right and getting the mixture set better. Any other thoughts are appreciated. Always helps to have another brain or two! Thanks everyone.

My deck lid is flat and my production year is 5/77. I think the 8/77 started the sloped deck as Av8ferg stated. I remembered something Cliff can you believe it?!

Quite the blast from the past! I've just copy/pasted the Comp header test results into the link above from the original HybridZ thread. The stock cam of the L24 did not pair well with the long-primary Comp header--it's really the length that matters for tuning, width is sized to minimize pumping losses vs weight/package/cost. Not to mention that the header was run with dual pipes with no merge collector. It wasn't the most scientific experiment because I didn't isolate just the header but it gives folks an idea of what these changes caused and why. That car was sold before more engine work was done. My current 260Z runs an L28 with the MSA 6-1 header. The header came with the car along with an MSA 2.5" premium exhaust. I had it modified for an additional resonator and "the quietest muffler you have" which ended up being a Walker Quiet-Flow. I wanted to hear all the induction noises, uninterrupted by a loud exhaust. I've since converted some Z friends who wanted to quiet their car down, to the same muffler. Here's a dyno run on poorly-tuned carbs.

Well, Peter Brock is an engineer and you argue with an engineer at your own peril. So if he says don’t do one without the other, you should listen. Pic of my front BRE for fun... it’s glassed to the valance. I have the original design rear, also glassed on.

Eh, I don't know that I would say it feels good on the budget part ? It's a slippery slope building at this level and then you get to a certain point where you just can't cut corners. I don't intend to ever build a car to this level again to be honest. Too much time, effort and money. I tend to like to build a car I can either break even or make money on. This will have little to no chance of either. But I do enjoy the build and part of me is getting bummed out that it's getting close to being done because it has been such an amazing journey.

1) "Difficult first start of the day" is not enough fuel. Misadjusted choke cables are often the reason. Have you checked the float levels. They are the primary mixture adjustments.