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The "P" in BP5ES or BP6ES is an indication of a projected tip. our cars need that to get the spark in the correct location. A B5ES would be shorter overall. The R mentioned above is a resistor. (BPR5ES) Heat range (the number 5 or 6) is the size of the porcelain as opposed to the electrode. Has nothing to do with the overall length of the plug. https://www.denso.com/global/en/products-and-services/automotive-service-parts-and-accessories/plug/basic/heatrange/

I do it all the time!

You used the wrong paste.

Hi all, Just a follow up on my build I had @grannyknot over today helping install the L28 and the install went great despite spending most of the time looking for the correct hardware ? thanks for your patience @grannyknot Looks like I will need to purchase a new pertronix igniter kit as some how the previous owner decided to cut the main wires that feed the igniter.

Almost ready to put this stuff back in the car. . .

The place is called Commercial Radiator. 1584 2 Pl, Memphis, TN 38116 901-377-8080 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's hilarious. I'm going to go out on a limb and say his 3-wheeler uses a little oil.

Unless something has changed, the ZStore gets their carbs from ZTherapy, so you may as well deal with ZT directly. Many times the ZStore lists items as available when they really aren't and you place an order and are subjected to long wait times for fulfillment. Don't order until you call them first and they confirm all your questions.

Not knowing much other than what the pros have stated I would put the bpes5 in cylinder #4 and run it, check the color. All other plugs look really good to me.

That's the one I read, but I missed the part down below about P6502 effectively replacing E3002 now, even though they obviously aren't exact matches. At any rate, I recall now that there was some remnant electrician's tape-looking stuff around the stopper when I checked the oil before buying. I guess that was his fix. I just applied the same fix. Sitting snug right now. Thanks.

Hey Captain, is this the one? Only £8 on fleebay, shall I hit buy? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F163516321436 And then there is the SUPER grey, so which is best!? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F184243311437

Found a good thread on this.

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I went through this about a year ago. I was going to do it myself but I changed my mind and had it done professionally after meeting a guy who was doing it himself.and I’m glad I did. This guy put BB’s in the tank to break up the rust and could never get them all out: he has to cut the tank open to get them out and used that hole to put the POR in. It looked like a mess and environmental disaster. I took it to a shop that did work on Big rigs in Memphis. They had a hot tank and did an acid bath and then treated the inside with a red coating. He said it would last longer than anything on the market. The tank came looking brand new inside and out. Total cost was $320. Pricey but I wanted it done right and put it behind me. Wish I took before pics to show you how good of a job they did. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here's another "heat range" definition. The term "heat range" is inherently confusing I think. Not sure why they picked that term. I would have used something like "operating temperature". My first guess. Anyway, NGK gives simple description of "self-cleaning". Why is Denso talking about gas pocket capacity? What the heck does that even mean? The simple answer for Jalex's issue is the last sentence, I think. Of course, then you have to define "ultimately". https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/understanding-spark-plug-heat-range "UNDERSTANDING SPARK PLUG HEAT RANGE One of the most misunderstood aspects of spark plugs is its heat range. It is believed by many that the heat range measures spark temperature or intensity. This is incorrect as the heat range is actually a measurement of the plug’s ability to transfer heat away from the tip of the spark plug. One cannot change the temperature of how hot a fuel burns. A hot spark plug has an insulator design that will be slower to draw heat away from the plug tip (thinner insulator mass), whereas a cold plug has an insulator design that will be faster to draw heat away from the plug tip (thicker insulator mass). For a spark plug to function properly it must have a tip temperature hot enough to invoke self-cleaning, while remaining cool enough to avoid pre-ignition. For most vehicles, the factory recommended heat range is sufficient; however, on some modified or special-use engines, alternative heat ranges may be necessary. Often hotter heat ranges have been used to attempt to correct an underlying fuel or oil consumption problem; this is merely a cover-up fix and the underlying issues will ultimately have to be addressed."

Access port hole *should* be on all post Aug 76 models. Key #34. Did not search for 2+2 applications. Unsure if the microfiche sold by the club covers *only* export to US models...

Happy 510 day to all. Here are a couple pics, from 1980, of one of my 510's. It was my winter beater ski car, that I drove while my Zed was hibernating.

That's correct. The gap stays the same. A super cold plug has a very short center electrode and porcelain. The difference lies in how far the center electrode and porcelain extend past the threads into the combustion chamber.

Yup, those rails are 77-78. The 74.5 to 76 have 60 degree tabs on both ends, like the front tab on those. 240 rails have studs on both ends that fit your holes. I have lots of the 240 rails, let me know if you want a set. Send me a PM.

He's only going to get about $50-100 from a wrecking yard. The engine trans and diff would probably be worth picking up as a set. It only takes one of them to be good and the buyer is probably paid back. Buy those and let him scrap the rest. Even a set of good injectors, a fuel rail, and an FPR might make it worthwhile. A garage full of spare parts gives comfort. @Terrapin Z is a collector and has been known to travel.

You got me Captain, I thought you were kidding. It is Saturday night so...

I used to use that silicone RTV style for pretty much everything, but a couple years ago I switched over to Pertmatex MotoSeal for gasoline intensive applications. I don't know if you've got something similar on your part of the globe, but I assume you could find something. I ran some tests on both in gasoline, and the MotoSeal came out to be the clear winner. I think I've got some pics around here somewhere if I could only find them...

Hi Dadsun-- Mark is right. You will need the Uni-syn as an aid to balance the airflow in your carbs regardless of flat top or round top. I wouldn't be spending money on a header until I found a true need for it. The header is immaterial to vacuum leaks. It might help with engine compartment temperatures, but until you've driven the Z hard enough and long enough to reach those temperatures how do you know it needs that as a remedy? The real issue with servicing the flat tops in any meaningful way lies in the fact you must completely remove them from the car to open them up, replace gaskets and adjust the internal floats and fuel nozzles. That involves dis-assembling a lot of air and water connections just to get to the point of faithfully adhering to the Factory Service Manual step by step so that the required adjustments are made . No shortcuts. No kidding. Once you go through this process the flat tops are reliable and perform very well for extended periods of time with no issues. I've driven my flat top powered Z round trip from NW Arkansas to Austin, TX in 2017 and Atlanta, GA. in 2018 with no problems. I couldn't be happier with them, really like that they are original to the model year and take some pride that they are rarely seen in proper operating condition.

@jalexquijano If you're going to try the hotter plug in #4, I'd use a BP5ES not a BP5RES. The rest of your plugs are BP6ES. No need to throw a resister plug into the mix.

Alright gang, the hunt for air leaks continues .... I could tell that despite the car feeling better, there was still something amiss with the rear carb. Using self penetrating oil (as it froths up nicely and is runny), I sprayed around the typical areas and found that that outer end of the throttle shaft on the rear carb was showing a perfect line in the froth between the end cap and the carb body. Using a razor blade, I gently encouraged it out (which was frankly quite easy). I discovered a putty type material in there which I assume is there to seal the cap. Not much of it left though. Looking at the fingers in the cap, you can see where it was leaking has the dark residue. So I cleaned both the cap and carb big up and using a gasket making paste, I covered the cap, pushed it home and wiped off the residue. I’m sure someone will tell me that I have used the wrong paste ;). Incidentally, I used the same thing on the intake manifold and carb insulators gaskets to ensure a good seal. I then did the other side to play it safe. Having given it a good hour to set, I fired up the engine and did the same test, froth everywhere! So if your ZT carbs start to leak, at least the fix is very quick and simple. Mine have been on for 7 years at an average of 2k miles a year. So I guess it’s fair to expect a little maintenance being required.

Hey Bill, I just researched this and heavy silicone spray is recommended to moisturize rubber parts. As far as cleaning, degreaser is probably ok but something milder might be better if the rubber is older. Dish soap maybe? . . . my two cents worth. I have a set of snap ring pliers arriving monday and I'll be able to do the final disassembly on my steering rack. Best, Andy

Haha! Probably took a lot of testing and revising to get that just right! So you don't have that 77 style hatch? I knew the UK stopped engine sizes and carb evolution with the 260, but I thought the rest of the car was the same as the US. So your entire car, body stampings, electrical, all that? All that stagnated* in 1974 and held through until 79? * Not intended to be derogatory. Used for description only.

Yep, don't cut any corners when doing the POR 15 and it will do fine. Also be sure to let it cure about a week like in the instructions. Cleaning the tank before is essential. Depending on condition, some people use Muriatic acid (diluted) and then Phosphoric acid. Muratic acid tends to flash rust almost immediately so be sure to neutralize after with baking soda if you do. I can't think of any advantage of removing the vapor tank. If the sending unit is non functional, replace it, otherwise just clean it up by soaking it in CLR.

I've done the POR15 gas tank kit a couple times now, just follow the instructions to a T. Clean as you can it then a hair dryer running through the tank for an hour until you are sure the inside of the tank is dry. I had so much left over that I took a brush and gave the outside of the tank a good coat too.

Job done! The Bosch injectors from Motor Man are in. I was waiting on stainless steel holder plates from Z Car Depot which arrived today and with the help of my son we put everything back together in about 90 minutes. Changed the fuel filter as well. Started right up but took about 4 or 5 minutes to run really smoothly. No leaks! Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

It's been a while since my last post. I finally got the Z back mid January and made some progress. Brake lines complete and suspension installed Engine bay harness installed. I still have to figure out the engine bay relay's as they did not come with the car for some reason. Trying out this new window gasket from Spaenaur #825-065 as my Z did not have any of those "S" clips that attach to the OEM fender rubber seals. I decided to go with wider Watanabe's 15X9 -13 rear and 15x8.5 -6 front and run the marugen shoukai fender flares as I'm not happy how my rear quarter panels ended up. The painter messed up the body line and the inner lip of the rear quarter is full of filler. Plan is to get the differential in this weekend and doors. If anyone is interested I have my Watanabe 15x7 for sale, shoot me a pm for details.