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So I just got off the phone with Klassic Fab . Very nice on the phone and apologized for the website snafu . He split shipping cost with me to make up for the inconvenience . They should be here next week so stay tuned . Sounds like I might be customer number 2 right now . I ordered floors, seat rails , frame rails .

So this thread is titled "tips and tricks" so here is one tip and trick. This is related to using the bearing splitter and puller. I use the puller with long extensions to get the rear main shaft extension housing bearing off, then to pull the very snug bearing sleeve under the 5th gear needle bearing. It requires 16" extensions for one and 18" for the other. Being inherently lazy, and efficiency driven, the ordeal of spinning those 3/8 nuts back and forth on the long rods, or changing from 16 to 18 in rods and having two sets of nuts and washers, I find just too tedious and time consuming. What to do, what to do.... Let's see... Surely there is a nifty "something" out there that allows you release a threaded nut and slide up and down, then quickly re-connect it with the threads. Didn't take much googling to find the concept of a "slip on nut" to be a real thing. Here is the first thing I found. Two interlocked nuts that rotate to expose an opening, then rotate to lock back on the threads. Found it on Fastenal's website, and low and behold, they actually had some at the store near me. I zoom over, and yes, she pulls out four of them in a baggy, goes to the computer and says "That will $60 bucks please"! I let out the loudest laugh i have ever produced. She looked at me with very worried and surprised eyes, wondering what I'd say or do next. She managed to say with a straight face, "well, we do have minimum charges....". I apologized for possibly offensive behavior, thanked her for her time, declined the purchase and left.. Home I went to the internet. Found them on McMasterCarr for $5.75 each. BTW these are 3/8-16 thread. (PN 90125A031) Even better, I also found on McMasterCarr a much slicker sliding nut system, the "Push Button Slide Adjust Nut (PN 98150A360) for a mere $10.83 each. Of course I bought both items to compare. I had other important things to buy from them as well, so I justified it easily. Like a bag of 25 orings that fit the speedo cog body and striker rod for $8 bucks (9262k892)rather than the $8 each that Nissan charges you. Same for snap rings (97633A290), and various individual ball bearings that match the ones you always lose when you take the trans apart)..... They are surprisingly all perfect SAE sizes. 0.25 (shifter rod detents), 3/32, etc. (Yes, it all was more than $60 Canadian, I knew you'd ask....) Anyway, the push button slider nuts are the best thing out there. Push, slide, release, thread to lock. The nut OD is quite large (over an inch for a 3/8 nut), but for this usage its perfect, as the base is flanged and fit the fingers on the puller head without additional washers. The two piece slip on nuts work too, but are finicky. BTW the trick to getting McMaster Carr to sell to Canadians is to register your account with a business name. Don't have to provide proof, just have a name in the box when you fill out their on-line form. I use my zKars handle. Occasionally the courier driver will ask my name on delivery, I will blurt out my actual name and he will say "but the name on the waybill is ZKars". I show him a business card I had made up, he's happy.

It could be resistance in the contacts from the temp gauge sensor (usually yellow wire) to the gauge. Check for corrosion at the thermostat housing connections. Temp gauge sensor is normal a single bullet connector.

FYI, I am the maker of the FloatSync and expect to have more units for sale in the next 60-90 days. For anyone interested, send me a private message and I'll follow-up with you when they're once again available. The tool will eliminate a lot of guess work and incorrect measurements. Just a reminder that the tool will only work on SUs that have the threaded plugs in the float bowls.

That's sooo tempting. Most of us already have the parts to complete it or know where to get them.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/dorman,602885,wiper+linkage+/+transmission,8856 Harold Burroughs posted on FB yesterday about the availability of new aftermarket S30 wiper linkage from Dorman, PN 602-885. Just thought I’d spread the word. He reported the find from Advance Auto’s website, but Rock Auto has access to it also. Anyone with access to Dorman can get it. The price is impressive, $69 CAD. That’s about a $1.98 in USD, so who can resist? Yes as we know you can rebuild and re-lube the stock stuff, but if your shafts are all rusty (as all us old guys know), no amount of lubrication will make things go smoothly or last that much longer.

I used SEM Rust Inhibitor with good results. It'll turn whatever you put it on black but it will not rust any worse. EDIT: maybe it was "Rust Mort"?

Could you get a helper to make it do the grinding thing and then you listen around and see where it is coming from? That's what I would try and you may already have. It could be the water pump impeller rubbing against the front cover. That's pretty common. What about the sound with the clutch engaged/disengaged? Listen around the alternator too. They can make a grinding noise when you rev the motor. It would have that black dust all over it also.

Jason, That isn't our job. The fellow's reputation has nothing to do with Kustom Fab.

no, we should let them know.

Yes. actually very good. I didn't look at the following pages at first. Didn't realize the post was so deep. I'll pop the unit apart tomorrow. Thanks.

Has anyone tried just roughing up the metal toggle handle and painting it flat white? And if someone really really needs a plastic one and has a dead example for autopsy, I bet I could come up with a plastic replacement. Might take 100 hours and cost thousands, but I'd be willing to at least take a look at it.

Jim, here's another source with lots of choices: https://www.digikey.com/products/en/switches/toggle-switches/201?k=spst toggle switch

Just because he has a checkered past, doesn't mean that Klassic Fab's products are bad. He just happened to purchase the product for a 240Z restoration. I'm not here to defend the 240Z Guild, but it's not fair to dismiss a good product, one that looks to be head and shoulders above anything else that's out there when it comes to floor pans, rockers and frame rails.

I'd start by verifying the actual coolant temperature. If it is too cold I'd pull the thermostat and give it the boiling water test. It could be stuck in the open position.

I recognize that bench and tool box. ? Nice bling!

Yellow zinc plate them and you have $1.5k + on that bench!!!

From grunge to glitter! Next up - Dremel wire brush to clean out all the insides, then wet sand final prep for handoff to the plater. I was pretty lucky with this group, only one body had a couple of dings and only one had any serious patina issues.

Whilst poking around inside my 4/70 HLS30UV project car the other day, I noted that the passenger floor tar mat was manufactured in a shape which accommodates the possibility of fitting an OEM passenger footrest:

Update: just got my first items back from powder coating. The parts came back perfect. Was $100 to sandblast, prep and powder coat all these items. Time to install. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My BS detector goes off loud when I see those too although I don't have any specific tell to point to that is a clear indication they are repros. I do worry that it seems the people who are making these are simply getting better at fixing their mistakes and making the repros harder to distinguish from the original versions. I suspect the chatter here pointing out the differences is allowing them to monitor this thread (and maybe others like it) and use the info within to improve the parts. Double edge sword... Better repros that are virtually indistinguishable from the originals are a good thing. But if they are sold claiming to be NOS parts made by the original manufacturer, it's a lie and should not be allowed.

240260280, Kats and Terrapin Z, Thank you taking the time to post the pictures. After looking over all of the pictures, the D hubcaps that I'm considering look like an updated set of reproduction hubcaps to me. I am looking for an authentic set and this seller hasn't been very forthcoming when I asked him questions. He also has been difficult to work with when I ask him for additional pictures. My gut tells me to back off.