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The MN47 has found a new short block . Now the engine is a MN47/42 - 3.2 liter.

I just disassembled one on the horns on my7/70 car. All of the olive green coating is paint over clear zinc plating. The outer front cover has only a very light coat of the olive green paint on the inside and the center disc is painted on the outside only. The center nut and small screws have olive green paint over clear zinc plating. The attached pictures show both sides of all parts as I found them. The paint seems to sand or scrape off with minimal effort, leaving the clear plating. The back is clear zinc plated with no paint, and the inside plating has a slight yellow tint.

Summer of 1972?

You need to bring this to Leadfoot in Feb 2020. Www.leadfoot.co.nz ?

Progress! Finally got a good tolerance tool done. Now just have to bore the 1/2” hole through the body for the boring bar and start making practice 62mm holes. 6B1A7676-B04D-4E1B-8757-4BF3A2E4E3A2.MOV

Post up when they get back. It will be interesting to see the finished result @Diseazd Looks like it might be an hour or so from you

http://www.hoodhingerepair.com/

I could possibly someday. I often think about quitting my day job and doing this full time. But then again, I think that if it were my day job, then I might not enjoy it as much. It's nice doing this on the side at my leisure.

One of these days I would like to hire you to do a Z for me.

Finished up the front and rear struts this weekend. Cleaned up the rear drums and painted with high temp flat aluminum. Also cleaned up the front hubs and discs. Cleaned out the front wheel bearings and packed them with new grease. Assembled the front hubs, disc and calipers to the struts. Will wrap these and set them aside for now. Will probably start the steering rack next. Still about 4 months before the body is finished and painted. Pics are below.

Yes, the front is longer going deeper in the chambers to account for the gas going towards the windshield when you accelerate. Note the different length "arms" that hold the pins for the floats. Front is longer for the longer valve. You just need new valves, not higher flow valves.

Try this: It will require a helper. Loosen the four hood bolts to snug - you don't want the hood to drop or move by itself but you want to be able to force movement. With the hood up and the bolts loosened - using both hands, one on the front edge of the hood and the other towards the back of the hood (one hand down, one hand up on the side of the hood each man (or woman)) - push the front of the hood back and the rear of the hood forward as much as it will go. So, down hand aft, upper hand forward. The bolts should have been loose enough that the bottom bolts will move as far as they can towards the rear of the car and the top bolts will move as far as they can towards the front of the car. You don't want them to move up or down, that would spoil your hood-to-cowl fitment. May help, but if it doesn't you'll have to repair, modify, or replace the hinge as suggested above. This is a simple and quick thing to try to get the nose of the hood down. It has worked for me on several of the Z's we've had in the shop. Some just had to much wear in the hinges to be able to get the hood to stay where it belonged. If the hood sits properly when the torsion rods are out and pushes up when the torsion rods are in place, the hinges are too worn. Please keep in mind that these cars were built in a different era and fitment back then was nothing like the sheet metal fitment of modern vehicles. When we were putting Z cars back together after paint we usually tried to get fitment that was as "visually pleasing" as possible, not perfect alignment of all the parts and seams... (The factory certainly did not take the time to shim and correct body panels for perfect alignment.)

I have the same problem, found the problem to be in worn hinges ( pivot points ). I have send them away for rebuild to a guy in the states. Will post results in my topic when they are back on the car. Hope it works. If you have to push down on the hood you are allready confirming the problem to be in the hinges.

If that turns out to be difficult, I’ll settle for a high resolution picture of the bottom of a filthy rusty thick undercoating covered Z applied to the underside of the coffin lid. Leave me a wire brush, scraper and propane torch so I have something to do for all eternity.

Your coffin will need to be at least 2 feet off the ground to get a proper transmission removal.