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I think it is natural for people to have a bias toward their local market variants, and in pre-internet days not so many people got to see other market variants - so they didn't even consider them. What I do not understand are people who tell us not to look, or that a particular market/model is not worthy of attention. It is bizarre. Every variant has its own significance and the more contemporary variants you look at, the more you learn about them and your own market variant. There is always something to be learned. I own variants from three different markets; Japan, UK and North American, and two different models from one of those markets (Japan). Each one informs not just about itself, but also teaches us something about the others. I find it fascinating to compare them, and I'm still learning something new every time. I contend that you cannot understand each model/variant fully without looking at its production line and showroom siblings. It's a pipe dream, but I'd like to have an S30-series Z event where we managed to corral at least one of every variant/sub-variant and market model, and every different production spec and showed them all together in one space with full access. No velvet ropes around the cars and no cars locked. I think it would be both interesting and informative. Just a pipe dream though...

Clogged filter somewhere? Do you still have a fuel pressure gauge installed? Oh, and if Dave is right and you ran it out of gas, you shouldn't ever tell us that. You should make up some story about how your fuel filter clogged with sediment from the bad gas you got last time because they were filling the tanks at the station while you were putting gas in your gas can. Yadda, yadda, yadda, Or something like that.

Just put 6 gal. fresh gas in the tank before I started it up, tank was cleaned and sealed, new fuel filter, new air filter. Will re install fuel pressure gauge this afternoon and check plugs for fouling.

A little progress tonight. Powder coated the fantastic new COP manifold from @convertt and added a little JDM Password bling with dress up bolts.

Here's a great deal for someone... https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Original-1974-Datsun-260Z-Car-Jack-Wheel-Chock-Tools-and-Tool-Bag-Real-Nice/183763325840?hash=item2ac925d390:g:tbIAAOSwk4Rb8e4V

In the end, it's not the numbers that matter to me. I am more about the torque in the mid range and the balance of power throughout the RPM range. Having a stroker with 89mm pistons, stage 3 cam and forged internals hopefully will deliver in this area. Adding the Haltech with sequential fire and dwell control, injection pulse width and duration, variable advance timing etc will certainly help reach the numbers I am looking for.

Yeah man. Never seize.

"CO's Stud Service Thread" giggle, snort

It's alive. IT'S ALIVE!

Just because one can, doesn't mean one should!

Original AR Libres

The later cars in the US have about 315hp and are very fast but they have problems with frame damage at that power level and thats not a 50 year old chassis designed for 140 hp or so

Hmm, I wonder if I'll have enough time... I'm not sure whether or not I used anti-seize on the plug in the O2 sensor bung. It will take a while to get it out. Just in case, new bungs have been ordered.

Do you ever sleep? J/k - your project is coming along fantastically! Great to finally see it in person. Great work!

That's the carpet finisher for the passenger footwell. Bolts holes go on the bottom. Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

check the fuel, no joke, I did this and was out of gas.

Use a 280ZX block....bore it .040 over, use P79 flat top pistons, use the modern P79 head or N42 head (not the E88 that you have). If you go P79 head, shave and shim it .080 and install a Isky Stage III Cam. Put your numbers matching engine on a stand in the closet. Now you’ve got a fun engine!

? or a 42 year old newspaper in the hatch!

These posts have come up before . Google 200 RWHP Hybridz and read so,e of those threads . 200 hp is much more realistic and if you haven’t driven a Z with 200 you don’t have the objectivity to ask for 300. 200 would be a hand full for a street motor. People that have ridden in my 155 rwhp car swear it’s much more. Gearing will help with the fun factor . The advice above is realistic. These engines aren’t cheap to get that HP goals . Cams, cam gears, harmonic balancers , pistons , valves , port work, hardware, engine control( ignition and fuel) , triples or EFI , $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Who in the world is going to pay $5,200.00 for this piece of work?

"engine clean enough to eat off of". Not sure where the seller is used to eating. But, if it's out of a dumpster, he may be correct. Between covering the side quarter windows and blocking the rear window view with the ginormous tall spoiler he's certainly enlarged the driver's blind spot. Dennis

This is doable with a 3 liter motor but it takes about 12k to do it unless you are a very gifted engine builder. The head work alone is about 2-3k of that. Rebello or Datsun Spirit build them all the time but the real question is "How fast do you want to spend?" Very difficult for a DIY'er to hit those goals. These cars don't really need 300hp, an honest 200-225 makes them move really nicely without tearing the drivetrain and chassis up

Some big progress today, bumpers on, dash in, emblems on. Just have to pick up a fresh battery tomorrow, throw the drivers seat in and take it out for a drive! In case anyone is interested the total weight of all the bumper parts comes to 80lbs.

Okay, the page has been updated with Day 3 activities. I figured out how to do AN fittings today. It's hard to believe that I'm the same person as the idiot who couldn't do it yesterday. I also hit a minor stumbling block in that the fuel pressure gauge has a 1/4" NPT fitting. I couldn't find an AN connector with a fuel pressure gauge port larger than 1/8" NPT (and I already have one of those), so I ended up ordering another fuel pressure gauge that has the same range as the one supplied by Rick but with the 1/8" NPT fitting.