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Just picked up a new flasher for the signals on the 280z and here is another one of these warnings, they seem to be everywhere. So how do I get cancer and reproductive harm from this little flasher? I think I would have to grind it up to a fine powder and snort it.

Yeah, it's unfortunate that I'll miss this one. Was really looking forward to the group meeting of the Flat Top Advanced Research and Development Society. So if I'm not there... Can I count on someone else to do something stupid in my absence? Is @siteunseen gonna be there? He'd have my back on that.

I like the colour of the outside and inside ?

Wowsers!! Yes, that's exactly what I have now. Both pieces. Haha!! I measured my lobes at 1.585, so the same as what you have there. I'd love to have it! Thank you so much for the offer!! PM on it's way!

Looks to be pretty solid. Here's the link: https://fortmyers.craigslist.org/lee/cto/d/fort-myers-1971-datsun-240z/6929051886.html

I really wanted to make it to Branson this year. I'm sure that anyplace that has a warrant out for Cliff must definitely be a party town worth going to... and I have family near there and could have made good use of a trip that way, but the gods (roofers, doctors, car dealers, insurance folks, etc..) said no (actually they said Hell NO!). Anyway , I'm aiming for NashVegas next year also. That's close enough that I'm sure Cliff has left some tracks there so it will be fun for sure.

For sure. This was just a quick mount and check. I have to get the doors stripped still too. The hood looks pretty good with it just sitting on the car.

As SteveJ mentioned earlier, in order to run LED's on a US spec 74 260z I would need to re-wire the dimmer switch to switch on hot instead of ground. I'm not prepared to go that far so will probably just drop in a relay and be done with it. Depending on amp load I may upgrade to halogens, but tbd.

Now is a good time to just weld the sugar scoops on and be done with that gap altogether.

Thanks Blue...never was too good in history. It does look like a very restorable Series I though, and good shells are getting harder to find.

Looks like a solid Series I to me. A new dash is a great start to a really nice resto. Glad I have no garage space, but Steve, this one could be a nice resto for about 20M in addition to the 15M. IMO However it is missing that 2400 valve cover.

I call BS on the original paint. For that call, I cite (in addition to the blue on the door jamb plate) overspray on the wiper stalks, hood latch, and brake booster check valve. In addition, it appears there is blue paint on TOP of the dirt on the hood hinges. I got no dog in this fight, but I call BS.

AK260, In the states we look for the "D.OT. Approved" label. Lots of options on amazon, none with a brand name that i recognize.

So with the incredibly generous help from @jonathanrussell, I've got a replacement cam on the way. Since they are both factory grinds, I'm hoping his cam is a drop-in.... errr.... slide-in replacement for what I have now. So with his help, I'm not out of the woods, but I should be a lot closer to the tree-line than I was before. This people here on this forum are fantastic!

Cliff might be busy doing the final buff on the Camry to make the 560 mi. trek to Branson.

It's probably the ink from the warning label that's the problem.

Sounds like more nays than yays. This will be my first, looking forward to zeeing some z's.

I'm sort of in the place. The headlight relay kit isn't available for the 260, so I'm thinking LED's are good interim fix until builld my own (working on specs for that now). And I agree, 3000 is a more comfortable color. I use 2700 in my home. Is that an LED bulb in a generic H4 housing, or something similar to the eagle lights that w3wilkes is using?

Only in California.

You can push the stock N47 deeper into the piston to enrich the whole range:

Dang---- I will really miss seeing and talking with you again Bruce, Gary, Charles and Cody, Steve J., Gary W., Wayne, Mike W. and Alex and so many, many more that may not make this Zcon. Great recent memories, but more to come next year at Nashville! Yes---the torch will be carried by Rich, Bob and I! Can't wait to get with you guys at Branson!!!! Safe travels in your journey East!

SMOKING GUN!!! So I was messing with trying to align the cam towers by loosening them a little bit and trying to get the cam to spin smooth, but #3 kept giving me trouble. Just didn't feel right. So I decided to pull it off completely and see what I could see. And....... Here's what my Previous Owner put in there on one side to "align" the tower to the head: And it gets worse... Notice that since that threaded "thing" is so crappy, it caused the other side alignment ring to be so far off that he had to use the cam tower bolts to jack the tower down (because it was out of alignment). it caught the alignment ring on the other side and pinched it in the gap and smashed it. Here's what used to be the precision alignment ring: The ring got smashed and actually extruded a tongue of material out into the seam between the tower and the head. Pulling that damaged ring out, you can see the dent it left in the aluminum head: At first, I thought that threaded thing was a Helicoil or something, but it was just a short stub of bolt that he drilled out. I guess he lost or mangled the original alignment ring and made that instead. Here's the two pieces that were "aligning" my #3 tower: Previous Owner strikes again!!! It's beyond me how you can't tell that something doesn't feel right as you need a wrench to crank that tower down into place and crushing that alignment ring in the process. I know the hobby is filled with people of varying skill levels, but this surprises even me.

It runs nice. Pistons are dished. 32cc Compression with C Cam is ~ 190psi.

Little Video......

Looks fine to me. I have a 3 cylinder Honda Insight so I am partial to unbalanced, low power engines.

Head is off, and by some incredible stroke of luck.... No contact between pistons and valves!! So I don't know if the engine isn't interference (with the dished pistons), or if I just got lucky and the rear half of the camshaft just happened to stop in a position where none of the valves were open enough to cause a problem, but whatever the reason, I'm thankful for small victories. Here's a pic of the valves from one of the rear cylinders. They all look like this. No clean spots and no hint of collision: My beautiful camshaft. The rear portion spun really easily in the two rear journals. I just slipped it out the rear of the head: The front portion of the camshaft spins relatively easily, but not as easy as the rear half. There is also one part of the front half rotation where it gets a little tighter. Not so tight that I can't turn it by hand, but to my calibrated hands, it's a little tighter in one spot then the rest. I wouldn't be surprised if there's some sort of alignment issue with the cam journals that was stressing the shaft for the past five years. Here's the break area. I don't have any of the typical beach marks of a gradual failure. It looks like it was a one time catastrophic snap: I took the front half out to get a better pic. Here's another close-up: Next chance I get, I'm going to put the front portion of the cam back in and see if I can loosen up the front towers and get them aligned better. I suspect that if I loosen them up and tighten them down again evenly I might be able to get rid of the rotational tight spot. Just to see if I can.

Got the air cleaner back from Powder coating. Installed loosely just to see how everything looks. Meant to comment on the wires above. I thought that I would need to make a new radio and antenna harness after pulling these two cables off of the dash harness. I lucked out however, as these were the cables that were the original radio leads. Somewhere out there is an original radio with the cables cut off. The new OEM radio just plugged right in making things easy.

You know I had to chime in here. Still amazes me that people are promoting the technically inferior SUs over the Flat tops, which are stock for this vehicle. I think most do not realize the advances that were incorporated into the flat tops that are not on the SUs. The flat tops feature 1) factory aligned needle and seats 2) a visible glass float bowl level 3) Anti-stall fuel rich mechanism 4) multi-point adjustable fuel mixture screws 5) fuel pump accelerator. I would bet that most who are promoting the SU’s are unfamiliar with these features and have no clue what I am talking about. Personally, this car is about as good as it gets…I even love those hubcaps! OK, no more carb comments from me…I will go back into hiding. I tried to post this comment on the auction site, but looks like they will not allow it....perhaps it is too inflammatory. Maybe I should try to sanitize it and then re-submit.

I've played around with three different types of LED headlights. I've never needed the anti flicker. I also have LEDs for parking lights, turn signals, and almost all of the dash lights. I had converted the headlight circuit to relays with switched positives before I ever played with the LED headlights. I know there are several threads on this board where I have advised people about using relays (and switched positive) with LED headlights.