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Made a bit of progress on the rad support ... templating .... Laying out the template and the bead roll pattern .... Got most of the hard part done.... Should be able to wrap it up in the next few days ....

My test drive last night, 10 minute test drive turned into a 1 hour cruse! I forget how much fun this car is to drive over the winter months.

Glad you got it fixed! Since you mentioned the debris in the rear prop. valve, I am betting you ended up circulating some rust or dirt throughout the system when you bled it. Then the debris got stuck causing the issue. The brake components are somewhat precision pieces so it would not take much to create an issue. Taking everything a part, cleaning it, and rebuilding it along with the blow out of the lines ensures your system is clean.

I am happy to report that the brake problem is resolved. That is the good news. The bad news is that I have no idea what fixed it. I got so frustrated that I took each and every brake component apart and rebuilt it, flushed and blew out all of the lines and last night took it out for a spin and the brakes are working great. ?

5 speed is mostly apart. Really all I needed was a long puller.

The noise is likely coming from the worn u joints on the shafts, I don't think you have replaced them. You can change them yourself for around $20 (Neapco) each or any driveline shop Seattle can do it at a reasonable price if you take them just the shafts. (the permanently lubed ones are stronger than the greaseable type. Drivelines NW is a good choice for parts or the work in your area.

I just got my car checked for emissions again so that I can renew my tags. We're on a two year cycle here so that gives plenty of time to mess around and get it screwed up . I had my car running greatly and went straight to the emissions check station without doing anything to help it pass. It failed, of course, so I spent the next few hours dinking around with the idle air bypass and my fuel pressure and failed three more times. So I went home and realized that I was using my MSA AFM that I had bought new nine+ years ago and that it had always run rich. I don't know why, it just does. No matter how far I back out the idle air bypass I couldn't get it to lean out. I pondered drilling out the bypass passage to let more air past the blade but it's not an easy operation. So I pulled my last old AFM down from the shelf, an original 75/76 AFM, and installed it. Then I leaned out the idle air bypass until removing the oil filler cap caused it to stumble to barely running. I went back to the test center the next day and passed on the first shot through. I realized as I was tuning that I could remove my oil filler cap and the engine would not stumble, when I had bad results. I had forgotten about that basic "running rich" test. Even though it was not noticeably rich, it wouldn't pass, and I could leave the cap off with no problems. Anyway, the short story is that if you can remove your oil filler cap and your 280Z doesn't notice, you're probably going to fail the idle emissions test. So that's the tuning tip. If you're in CA with the 2500 RPM requirement the same test might still help. And even though I could leave the filler cap off, it still only failed CO. Not HC. It was very close.

This says it all I guess....

I just got my booster back. These guys do a great job.

Here's the permanent stuff that hardens, and one of the the silver powders (aluminum dust). There's a bunch. Don't forget the raw egg fix. https://barsleaks.com/product/head-gasket-fix/ https://www.amazon.com/Silver-Seal-Radiator-Sealer-Powder/dp/B000AME522/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 https://www.goldeagle.com/product/alumaseal-radiator-stop-leak-powder/

Yes, Trevor is still loving the car. Took a half day recently to go up in the hills just to take photos of it :) Right now I'm most concerned with some minor electrical issues (turn signal not working and no horn) and WATER issues. I took out several CUPS of water pooled on the floor a couple of weeks ago during our weeks of rain. The car won't stand for that very long. I sold a trailer last week that will allow me to start putting the Z in the garage, and we have started installation on a full kit of weather stripping. So far, installed both door strips. Next, door window "wiper" trim to keep water out of doors, and the rear hatch trim. Day by day... This coming year, Trevor will be heading off to college and won't be taking the Z with him. Then it will finally be out of daily use mode, and I can more easily work on it.

I just sent him an e-mail. Hope he responds.

Yeah your missing the fact that such a car is a bargain .. over here a rustbucket with warn out mechanic's is 15000 euro... WAKE UP U.S.A. !!!! The fact that these cars were mostly sold in de States let you think it's a cheap item... (Most have rusted away and everyone wants one..) These cars were 3-4 times more expensive overhere (Europe) than a Ford Taunus (yeah that's what they are called overhere with a 1300 or 1600cc v4 engine.. (overhere midclass) ) offcourse we got the 5 speed standard in a 240z but still .. Little boy's who walk aside of mom and say: Mom look!! What a nice car!! And also i've seen cyclists looking over their shoulder and run into a street light pole! i was LMFAO.... !!!

Thats a lovely build there. He builds the best L series in the world though(probably!). I'm +3mm pistons(29mm pin) 280 crank 140mm rods so a lot more conventional.

Residual pressure valve.. here's one from Jeep... ?

Good detective work, Terrapin! I recently subscribed to Instagram about a month ago, but I haven't posted anything yet. Right now I just follow family, friends, ski areas where I go and classic cars, etc. ThreePedalCollective is a character, he calls his cars sh**t boxes, even his very expensive Porsche 911s, etc.

Hey @Mike W, we are moving away from publishing our own app. If you are looking for something to keep in touch on your mobile device you can connect using your mobile browser or there are 3rd party apps that can connect as well. Do a search in your app store of choice for "Tapatalk" and it will give you the option to add our site. Mike

Does the bottom end need rebuilt, or you are just wanting to try it?!The bottom ends are about bullet proof unless it’s been neglected . Should be able to tell that by how clean the inside of the valve cover looks. Does it use or blow smoke? You might pull the head off and still see the cross hatch marks in the cylinders. I’ve seen it on a motor with 100k + You could save $$ and time and aggravation and less down time with your car by not touching the short block except gaskets . You could improve CR with a smaller combustion chamber head . Instead of rebuilding that head you could put money towards a different head . Facing the block? Probably won’t need decked either. Now the head should be resurfaced if it has any defects or just for the HG longevity. Shorter valve seals or different valve springs for anything more then 460 lift cam. Probably get away with stock seals up to 480. Just throwing it out there

I had to rewind because this went by so quickly, but it looks like the Z has earned its place in the investment world, in a manner of speaking. This showed up tonight in an ad for Principal Financial on CBS news, and it seems to show a good market ...

Dude - I swear on the Bible I have never been to Seattle or helped you in person.... oh wait, you must be talking about someone else... ?

You need a guide guide!