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When I rebuilt mine, I took some photos after disassembly and made sure I kept things in order so I think this should help you. My photo isn't the best but ...the order starting from the outside hex bolt/plug goes.... 1) Hex plug. 2) Seal with flat side out and U cupped shape in. 3) smaller washer. 4) snap ring. 5) larger washer. 6) spring. 7) shaft (see photo for orientation). 8 ) Seal with flat side in and U cup shape pointing toward the hex plug/out. Essentially the U / cupped shape of the seals both point toward the center. I used a 5/16 socket to push the assembly down and cause the snap ring to re-seat when I reassembled. I used the MSA seal kit but really I think the original seals were just fine. Mostly what I accomplished was cleaning out 45 years of gunk.

I'm going to go the other direction and suggest that it may be running rich at idle. Is it possible it's as simple as a stuck nozzle or choke out of adjustment?

Does he not have a ring compressor? All of the rings need to be checked for end gap in their corresponding bores. This should have already been done before trying to install them. If he hasn't done this then I would take my toys and go home. I would not replace the cam towers. You would be asking for trouble. Make some simple flat block off plates with a gasket under them. Not too hard to do really

I am going from memory, but I seem to remember that the sending unit is keyed so it will only go in one way. also, no need to bend the float arm. If you look closely at the float arm pivot point, you will find a set screw which allows you to adjust the travel of the float. hope this helps. Dan

Lol.... I'm not kidding, these are atrocious! I literally dodge and weave all over town... if you don't, prepare to pop tires and bend rims!! (and the city will NOT pay to fix your car...) Imagine a Z going over that road... not gonna happen. We get bad potholes every year, but this year was real bad with the winter etc. Supposedly our potholes are so bad because we have a high number of freeze/thaw days each year, something like 40 days. But it would be nice if they could get to fixing some of these... I literally caught some air the other day on a stretch of road that barely qualifies, and should be closed!

Holy moly, that's as bad as I've seen. I will never complain again about our roads.

This probably wont be helpful at all but I had soft pedal. I bled the brakes numerous times and nothing helped. Finally I installed bleeder valves on the brakes and bled them again. That worked.

I wish I could but 1) the valve is reassembled and installed in the car and 2) I am on an extended trip and am away from my car/garage/parts. Here is another photo with the larger washer sitting on the spring. Looks like it is about the same diameter as the spring. Its primary purpose seems to be to give the snap ring a solid surface before the spring.

That matches what we have. As far as our very old microfiche, the first month shown on the 0.3 (Brown/Red) links was 8/75 (Note: Greg said that initial months of the new Z weren't always consistent year to year, and that 8/75 was considered a 1976 model year). On the 76 section of the fiche, it shows a quantity of 2 (through 7/76). On the 77-78 section of the fiche, it shows a quantity of 3 (from 8/76). The 0.5 Green link (again, as far as our microfiche), showed 7/76 as the last month. ... Interesting completely unrelated random fact that never crossed my mind before during the past 26+ years at Motorsport (yikes), if the numbers are accurate, the 1975 280Z was technically only in production for 8 months, from December to July...

Sounds like you really know your way around these cars so I am guessing you have the carbs tuned well. But, I have found that these cars like to idle a bit rich. If you try to set the mixture too lean, you get (I get) terrible idle performance and backfiring through the carbs. If you apply a bit of choke while idling does it straighten out?

The diff had been sitting outdoors with no axels and was full of mud. I took it apart to clean it out, inspect it for wear and rust, and replace all the seals and whatnot. Thankfully it had enough grease on it that everything was peachy.

Got a few more items in. Got the rear tail lights in along with the side markers.

Got the motor in yesterday. Was great to have @jayhawkstop by and lend a hand.

Only bling I have is the GOLD lettering on my Duralast Gold series battery.

Here are some pics I got showing what broke, and what is left under the car. Also, a bonus picture of my new custom painted Michael Myers mask, to get everyone in the spirit! (New movie comes out on Friday!)