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The package arrived today. I had to unbox it to take photos.

I drilled an appriately sized hole in a piece of 3/8” steel which supported the race and taped it through. Thanks guys.

You guys should just call them directly and tell them that their new policy doesn't work for you. Often these decisions are made by people who don't understand the consequences. And, somehow, these days, we've all been (re)trained to do everything by computer. I actually just called the local post office by phone and talked to a real person, about my new delivery guy delivering the wrong mail to my address. It was weird. He said that he would talk to the new guy and get it straightened out. It was like a time warp, talking to a person and solving a problem. Just saying...the old ways still work sometimes. https://www.eastwood.com/paints.html

Call it what you want.... I've got 2 (well, one now since I used a slot for my headlight relay feed) spare +12V fused feeds that I don't have to tap off the battery. No gremlins and no maintenance. Nothing about this screams 'bling'.

I have tried this. The phone managers say it is a corporate decision to streamline their shipping process and eliminate the time it takes for them to process the international shipping documents (five minutes...) etc. Bottom line is saves them a few dollars in wages and time, and offloads those and more costs onto the purchaser. On large purchases, this makes sense. You are going to get a brokerage fee and manifest paperwork charges anyways, so no big deal. Duty will be assessed at the border. The main problem here are the brokerage companies that find a way to charge for "brokerage" plus a "document prep fee" on your package. No matter the size of the item, if it is expensive their charges reflect a portion of that cost. Almost like real estate commission. An example was my coil overs. $850 US for the coil overs. $125 US for shipping, $75 Cdn tax at the border, $200 Cdn brokerage and document fees! But yet somehow I manage to get 100 lbs of metal poles (wedding backdrop) shipped from China for $25 Cdn.... no brokerage, no fees, not even stopped for tax assessment. I ordered a crimping tool for the EZ Clip A/C system. $49 US for the tool. $26 US for the shipping. I asked them why so much for shipping and they said it was because they don't want to bother with USPS shipping when they can offload to UPS or FEDEX. The result is a small letter sized package that would have cost $12 US to mail, cost me $35 Cdn to receive. As much as I try and support my favourite vendors, it is increasingly more difficult to justify the expense. I order from Canadian companies whenever I can, and overseas for others that offer huge savings on shipping costs. I don't order Chinese junk, obviously, but sometimes it is the exact same product just shipping from the manufacturer in China versus from the states with their markups on top. In the end, I am disappointed that the costs are seen as trivial to the US vendors. If Americans had to pay the costs we do for their parts, no one would be restoring their vehicles the way they do now. Ask @EuroDat and other Europeans how they feel about importing parts! And their Euro is worth more than the US Dollar!

Blitzed, I recently went through many of the same issues getting my '71 240Z back up and running after sitting idle in the garage for 28 years. As Mark just mentioned, the mixture adjustment nuts are just for fine tuning the mixture, you've got to get the float bowl level set correctly first for the adjustment nuts to work properly. If you're down 4 turns and still backfiring out the front carb, it sounds like the front carb needs the float level checked and adjusted to "richen" it up. I noticed your location says Placentia, is that Placentia, California? If so, I am just a few miles away in Orange. Let me know, I would be happy to stop by and give you a hand. I am by no means an expert, but two eyes may be better than one to help get it sorted out.

There was a 15 minute window for free shipping... and all their packages were coming via 737 Max 8's.....

Interstate Batteries, bling to my eyes. ??

I will probably replace the hood as there is one on the west coast I can get fairly easily. Or I may repair it. I saw that the locking gas cap was selling for $325 US... ? ouch! However I also saw that a set of taillights was under $200... fairly reasonable. I have a front bumper lined up, just need a rear. Also need a new set of badges and a mirror, some hub caps, new seat covers and foams..... arrrgh here we go....

I like mark II. Sounds good to me!

Nice pick up, congratulations. I'm in the market for the right one myself.

I remember buying an air dam for $190 and shipping was $285, because it was oversize. I received an e-mail stating the air dam was in the ciuntry and I had to pay €14.95 administration costs before they would process it, which I paid. They then sent me an e-mail saying the taxation office wanted 21% tax for the air dam, shipping and admin charges. Back then the Euro would buy $1.31 so I had to pay something around €78 in taxes. That air dam ended up costing me a little under $600. I think at least 40% of my restoration costs go to shipping alone.

Haha!!

Was I that Obvious?

LOL! I see what you did there. And I like it!

Hi Nomad, That would be awesome. Love to see your car and your vision moving forward. Give me a call this weekend if you have the time. send me your contact info we'll and set a time. anwhiteford@att.net Thanks,

Wow, that’s disappointing. I guess I will try to clear lacquer mine before I run it.

It will be going back as soon as I have some free time. The concept that you need to some how keep it from rusting is nuts. Bare metal that is exposed to the elements with no thought on some form of protection. I sprayed it with oil before and after running in the wet.

Had to twist the nuts a bit too...

Torture is going a bit far... Did he/she get it out after that? ?

Hi All, You all are brilliant. The 240 roared back to life after a very long sleep. Adjusted all the linkage to neutral, high revs gone. I'm out about 3 3/4 - 4 turns on the air mixture nut. Backfiring and stalling gone, engine will hold a 700 - 800 idle. New issue, can't rev the engine, front carb backfires with the introduction of air and fuel. Rear carb reacts fine. Engine is now dieseling at shut off. These SU devil's are tricky to tune. Thanks for all the advice, Cheers.

I use these guys for USA orders, https://www.crossborderpickups.ca/ They say they ship across Canada but I don't know the costs, I have my orders shipped to their border address and they bring it across the border and up to Toronto for $10 plus taxes on the item. I pick it up at their warehouse on the way home from work, saved hundreds dollars so far.

Yes, You, Wayne and I pulled the caps and "kind of discussed it" just ever so shortly. I had a red link in the forward position at the time, Wayne wanted me to switch to the dark side and replace the fusible links with something else, plus being in huge parking lot in ATL at at National car show, drizzle, It was about lunch time, probably some gravity warps going on and my recently discovered short attention span was present. ?️ I think we all deserve a pass..... ?

A little bit of good news... The car was picked up from it's curbside location and deposited into a secured yard. At least now I know it will not fall prey to teenage hi-jinks or enthusiast-collector scavenging! I hope to have it back in my location 3.5 hours north of Calgary by the end of the month.

Hey Jeff, some people fill the diff by pulling a half shaft out the side. Top it up there and reinstall the half shaft.

I had an ATI dampener on last year's race engine and we had no issues. This year's engine is a rebuild using parts from an earlier race engine. That engine had a BJH dampener which if not kept oiled begins to rust pretty quickly. Inspection of the crank months ago revealed no damage or scoring. Today I got a call telling me that the inside of the dampener was damaged. I will post a picture tomorrow once I get a chance to go see it. An ATI is on the way. We did not install the BJH so I'm unsure why.

Richard, you could tap that little dent out then give that blade another shot of paint but even if you left it as is it will not run out of balance, it is still the same amount of weight in the same axis. The rad fan doesn't rotate fast enough for that dent to make a difference.

Dinwiddie? What, when, where? I’m only 2 hours away and may be able to drive up.

Good to know guys. For now then, I think it can stay where it is, as I just need to get it driving first, then I can worry about a few old bushes later ?

I'm working on upgrading electrical system. My car is '75 280z. My goal is : Replace Alternator to CS144 with removing external voltage regulator. Remove Shunt. Add extra fuse with install Maxi-fuse box. (75 has only 2 fusible link) Add ignition relay (75 does not have it) Swap Ammeter and Voltmeter My '75 280z has only 5 wire for external voltage regulator. When I googled, several people encounter issue for the missing #1 wire, which is green/red colored. Blues web site is always helpful. There is answer for this. HELP 75 Alternator swap I just create illustration for this solution. I will keep update the progress.

Didn't realize that it was that bad. Can you buy their products through Amazon? Amazon is bigger than any country so they can control their own shipping costs. Just asking, you might be surprised. Down here we are slowly, actually rapidly, turning in to one giant commercial entity. USA LLC. Everything is for sale, even people.