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So I decided to fab up some new front rails for the Z.. What is the worst that can happen, right? (Answer: waste some time, buy a proper set from a vendor). So why not? Step 1 ? Step 2 - Pretty much committed now .... Step 3 - make a pattern and a cheap test piece from some leftover 20 ga Step 4 - game time ...18 ga Step 5 - bend them up.... This was way harder than it looks. My cheapo metal brake was at capacity, and several teeth had to be removed, inserted and realigned in order to make all the bends. But it seemed to work. z Step 6 - test fit Still a lot to do, (weld in the bend, all the internal bracing, new crossmember brackets, all the nuts, TC rod supports) but so far so good! And the jig is working perfectly. I should have done this years ago....

Hi Guys. My name is Kent and I am a long time lurker here. I have several 240z project cars - none completed - but lots of ambition ....but that’s a story for a whole different thread probably. I started this car a few years back and, skipping to the point, I recently realized that I needed to take a step backwards in order to go forwards. I had replaced the floors and fabricated some new floor rails, but I realized that it would be nearly impossible to replace the front rails and firewall rust without stabilizing the entire chassis. Plus the rad support was repaired poorly by a previous owner at some point. Rotisserie was out of the question - way too much rust... Here she is on the completed jig .... a The jig was made from 2 x 2 x 1/8 tubing. It supports the chassis at stock suspension and drivetrain points - front swaybar, front crossmember, trans tunnel, and both side of the rear differential mounting point. I also added a support for the front strut tower, and across the door openings as I will be cutting out a lot of the firewall and the front rails. All the dimensions are available in the FSM. It is bolted (not welded) to the chassis. The whole structure is very rigid and I think that the firewall and frame rail replacement is going to zip right along. Here’s how she came together, in pictures .... hopefully this inspires someone else to get back on the horse. Cheers! e ;

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-70-7-73-240Z-NOS-Step-Lights-2x-26420-E4100/143107595083?hash=item2151e09b4b:g:H58AAOSw411cT1LB:rk:1:pf:0

Sweet. From what I've read, you won't be disappointed. And with the temperature at this time of year, I'm sure you'll be trying your new one out before I try mine. Just had to go a little bigger than mine, huh? Not the first time that's happened to me...

Achievement unlocked! E88 head tapped and ported for N42 non-webbed fuel injection intake!

Hi Kats, I know it says it's painted the "original orange color" in the auction text I posted above, but I think it is still painted 905 red. Both 905 and 110 red are orange tinted reds (110 more so). I think to the uninformed eyes it can be seen as orange in certain light. I also didn't understand the auction text comment about the hatch glass being replaced with a US version of the glass. I think the hatch glass would be the same for the US market and the Z432 in September 1970; tinted glass with vertical defroster lines. -Mike

This PS30-00166 was registered in September 1970. Originally this car should have been painted with the red 905 . Kats

Haha - thanks Mark! Now that I am rolling, I am going to try to FINISH one LOL!

Charles,. It appears to be a 'dealer installed' aftermarket type evap. TO ALL: The evaporator assembly has been gifted.

The V8 swapped Z sold at another nearby auction (Barrett Jackson) a day or two before. Searching the internet I found some more information and pictures of this car from prior auctions. The car had more work done on it/isssue, some of which was noted at a prior auction but not at the one last week. The upper radiator support is not correct for a 1970, so it was replaced as some point and the dash had multiple badly repaired cracks and there was no mention of either of those. I still think it was a good deal for a driveable Z432 that is already in the US, especially considering that the S20 engine and rough shell sold for $67K (plus buyers commission I assume) in Japan. When I saw the car the hood was closed and the rest of the car locked up so I couldn't see all the issues. Comments from a prior auction: The car has been repainted in what appears to be the original orange color, resulting in a good driver quality level finish. There are some paint imprefections along the lower body and orange peel along the rocker panels that potentially should wet sand and compound out. Overall the finish and color is consistent and glossy, though showing some signs of stone chips and minor blemishes in a few upper body areas. The hood color has been painted satin black to emulate the R version. race prepped 432 cars. Trim and rubber appears consistent with the condition throughout with minor hazing and light scratches on the bumpers as well as some imperfections in the various rubber trim and window gaskets. Glass appears to be correct with the exception of the rear hatch, which has glass from a US spec car. Further inspection of the hatch shows that the entire hatch might also have been painted green at some point. Lights, lenses and side marker lenses are all in good condition. The distinctive 432 grille is of the correct type. Wheels are tires are not factory original but give the car a nice aggressive stance. The engine has been very nicely restored using correct factory type finishes and proper equipment per the 432 designation. Some evidence of minor touch up paint is notable on a few accessory parts. The undercarriage shows some evidence of use over the years and possibly rear quarter panel replacement The interior is nicely finished with the correct style seats and a radio has been added to the center console. The rear uprights are covered with standard vinyl material differing from the original diamond-stitched material from the factory. For the most part, the remainder of the interior is quite nice overall, again in keeping with the general driver level condition of the restoration. The underside of the car shows some evidence of former corrosion repair along the rocker panels and the likely replacement of the floors, work which is commonplace to unibody-design cars which have spent considerable time in Japan. The car remains solid and structurally sound, and is ready to be enjoyed.

You got a deal there Guy! If it doesn't fit send it on down to Alabama.

His video and blog gave me the idea! I'm in the process of rebuilding my front suspension. As soon as I finish this car I'll look into getting a rb30e head. I can only read some of the kanji so it's hard trying to figure out how he did it... But yeah thanks for mentioning him. His my #1 source for gathering information about this swap. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Tabco still makes them too. Fitment is iffy from what I've read, no personal experience with zcardepot or tabco panels. Zcardepot is 100% to buy from, that I do know.

$10k is too low! Did you see what Z's are going for these days?

Great detail on the Solex. Nice to see some Kehin FCR's on the l6/twincam engine.

By the way , the left choke disc is an early type , the right one is later type . My spare set of Mikuni 40 PHH is an early type which has straight-head screw for securing top cover . They must have an early type choke disc but , later type is on . Today Mr. Shimoura ( Hakosuka GTR And ZG owner ) gave me an old picture attached on a wooden frame , he told me the engine is for KPGC 110 ( Ken & Merry GTR ) because the oil cap is a black plastic , and the carburetors has Philip head screws for a top cover .And the choke disc is a later type . Kats

It's all one piece. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02a01a/50-1504A

An appropriate place for the sticker...

Will look into that....and go into production? ?

If I were to try to make filters, I would start with brass screen just like the stock filters. That way you could solder the seam just like the originals. And then you could also use some soft brass sheet to welt the ends and solder them in place as well. I don't know what hole size would be appropriate, but McMaster has brass screen with hole sizes down to six thousandths. >> https://www.mcmaster.com/brass-wire-cloth You can get a one square foot piece for about $7.50. Enough to go into production and supply filters for probably all of the flat-tops still on the road today!

Typically I do a light wire wheel on the heavy rust or corroded items. I also try and remove any grease or oil just because it contaminates the nicer parts. Also, all paint needs to be removed. No need to be real clean on everything and no need to remove the old zinc. They do a nice job with the plating.

Two big thumbs up for Kent posting his build(s). We have been friends for a while now and I can vouch for his collection of awesome 240’s, 300’s, and a few other tasty exotic morsels too! zKars can also chime in here as well. He has known Kent longer than I have.

I hope I fixed the pics? Still learning to drive, sorry

Pictures don't work for me. It's best to upload them to the site. There they will remain even if Photobucket or any other hosting site sucks

@wal280z Wayne, did that evap unit come out of a 240z? If it did I'll take it

You need to come out into the light! You have some neat stuff going on it sounds like. Cliff

Not completely finished, but i am about 90% done. I need to get some more of those micro cotter pins to finish out the choke diaphragm assembly. Also need to look into getting new fuel filters. Do they exist? Surprised those are not in the rebuild kit. May do a bit more polishing on the right flat top. Technically $26 each. Actually there is typically a lot charge, $75, and then price reduced with QTY. The more you bring in, the cheaper it is. Tried to disassemble but could not do it without damaging something. The locking ring on bottom of cast iron has a spot weld. I zinced the whole thing and did cast iron spray over the base. Yes, this was a bit of an issue. Tried to reduce the problem by putting silicon in holes. The silicon did not always stay in place. They actually assemble nice when you have the correct set installed. I had throttle plates segregated but should have marked the throttle shafts. The shafts for this set of carbs was in the best condition, but after the coating it was a bit harder to discern which were the better set. The forward carbs assembled perfectly with no issues (beginners luck). On the rear, must have grabbed the wrong shaft as the throttle plate would not align. Took several tries to get the correct shaft. Also, the correct shaft rotated smoothly in the bushings. The wrong shafts did not. Also, had four gasket sets. Two of the gasket sets had nice fit for the fuel bowl seal. The other two were short as shown in pics below.

We used to heat our snowmobile plugs with a lighter to start on cold days. Heat is as important as spark.

PM sent

Also, didn't a v8 swap hls30 sell here for big money? I think with this auction, money doesn't buy taste. That 432 was a bargain. The ls swapped thing was overpriced tat.

Yes. It is PS30-00166 and sold for $170,500 including the buyers premium at Amelia Island in 2017. Today it sold for $90,000 with the 12% buyers premium. The pre auction estimate was $125,000 to $175,000, not including the buyers premium. https://rmsothebys.com/en/auctions/am17/auction/lots/r169-1970-nissan-fairlady-z-432 Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

This 80000 USD Z432 needs a set of magnesium wheels for 10000 USD , then it is still good price compared to when this car was first sold in the US . Mike , you can make it perfect using early Fairlady Z parts from your parts shelf . Oh , a set of Z432 coil spring is now on sale at Yahoo Japan . An exhaust manifold will show up some time . An aluminum radiator is bit hard to see but , It is not impossible. Kats

$25 for 19x13 https://www.uniquecarposters.com/datsun-240z-and-nissan-fairlady-z-car-model-chart-

It's out there! I'll find it somehow. Almost as cool as the coffee cup Jim and Jim gave me for Christmas.

Just an fyi and why I ask, my 9/'76 was one of the first change overs to the 5 speed. It has a "5 Speed" emblem on the passenger's side of the rear deck lid. You have a great car. I just always look for oddities in these old cars. I guess im a pessimist? Great car, carry on with the great updates and details. This is my social world, sad to say, I love reading the stories. Cliff