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@zKars, @Patcon Celebrating 50 years! Just went splits on a 1968 510 with my good buddy Ross He scouted it in Arizona. Here is one he bought ~12 years ago Here is the same wagon in 1969 film with same roof rack and no rear markers.

Nice car, I’m restoring a 903 color car as well.

Doing it for 30yrs doesn't necessarily it was done right, now before you get your back up let me try and explain it another way. Stock brakes are designed to have a balance of 70/30 front to back, you throw a set of Toyota 4 pot calipers up front and because of the larger displacement now you have a balance of 85/15, you take the car for a drive and slam on the brakes, the front of the car pitches down a lot more than it did before with the stock brakes and feels like the car is stopping faster, but it isn't, it's actually taking you longer to stop because the rear brakes aren't doing the right amount of work and the front brakes are overloaded. I've had 3 different configurations of "upgraded" brakes, rear discs, larger MC, larger booster, adjustable proportioning valve on my Z and I still can't lock up all 4 wheels at the same time. It took me a long time and a lot of money to realize that it is called a braking system for a reason. Each braking system is designed specifically for that car if you change any major component on a braking system you will throw the systems balance off.

Cleaned up the carb bodies today with Lacquer Thinner (my favorite solvent) and fine dremel wire wheel brushes. I didn't want to scratch anything. Before and after pics (front and back actually) shown below. I put the plungers back in the carb bodies after the pics to help protect the needle. Got all the platable carb parts prepped to plate along with some of the remaining items that need to be plated. Will mail those out to Sav-on plating here shortly. This is about as far as I can go on the carbs until I get the plated parts back. I think I will get started on the differential and half shafts tomorrow.

This first thread is a must for anyone interested in modifying brakes, https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/38592-brake-balance-faq/ These next two threads are specifically on modifying 240z-280z brakes, you can see over the 11 yrs of the thread what people have tried, what worked, what didn't, https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/38499-brake-upgrade-faq/ https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/104910-brakes-who-is-running-what/ Now if you need to occasionally escape all the "fun" of Christmas, these threads will keep you busy.

Sorry Jeff @Home Built by Jeff Squirrel!!!

Maybe we should move this to it’s own thread.. Very interesting conversation!

(Alice's Restaurant). and creatin' a nuisance...they all came back and shook my hand and we had a great time...

For Sale: 240Z-Ealry 260Z NOS Hood Release Cable Part Number: 65640-N3000 Cable is in excellent condition, complete with grommet. Part may have been test fitted only. Price: $125.00 plus $20.00 shipping in continental US

26% increase in required foot pedal pressure to exert the same psi on the caliper pistons. Also a 26% increase in volume of fluid to be moved.

Looks like both pins are N-62. Looks like I need and manicure also.

TY

Arlo said the same thing when the song's fiftieth anniversary was coming up. He said he had to go back and relearn it.

There has been some discussion about that cooling fan motor sub-harness in the past. Unfortunately the pics are dead because photobucket sucks, but here's some threads: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/46256-always-hot-connection-for-radio-install/?tab=comments#comment-420468 https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/52262-recommendation-for-new-radiator-and-elctrical-fan-for-280z/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-478260 I reattached a couple of my previous pics here... The two connections for that sub-harness are under the dash above the passengers right knee. Tucked up to the right of the glove box:

Unfortunately Alice's doesn't exist anymore... Here's what's left: However, the nearby church is still going strong: Here's an inside shot (taken from down among the pews) up towards the bell tower where Alice, Ray, and Fascher the dog slept: So is this a record for just how far off target a thread can be jacked?

I'm looking for a Datsun/Nissan (not Subaru) r180 in 354, 390, or 411 ratio. (first preference is a 390 or 411) I'm located in Colorado, 81401

Nice catch! I'm thinking there will soon be a new Ultimate 510 reference guide in the near future.

Zed Head's logic is right on the money. If you improve the brakes on the rear of the vehicle only, you subsequently alter the balance provided by the factory setup bias. In order to return to the original bias you either have to upgrade the front brakes as well (theoretically in the same proportion as you improved the rears), or introduce an adjustable proportioning valve.

Merry Happy! Dennis

Sorry about that, I guess I could have just looked at the title of your thread.

hiyabrad, 7tooZ, Zup, I am going to produce sets (8 pieces to a set) of the seat protectors for the 1969-1970 seats in mid-January 2019. The pricing will be: $38.00 for the first set, $30.00 for additional sets mailed to the same address. Shipping will be via FedEx Express Saver, insured, with tracking. Once I have fabricated some sets I will create a new post in the Classifieds offering them. Thanks to all. Keith

You used the vague term "perfectly well" again. Nissan has a test for proper brake bias, where you lock up the tires to be sure that they're balanced. So here's the logic - if the stock parts give proper brake bias, how can the Toyota calipers be "better" without changing that bias? And if they don't change the bias how can they be "better". They would be the same. And if they're the same, what's the point of using them? That's the issue that always comes up with these "upgrades". What is being improved? All you're saying is that you did something and the car still stops.

Litter'in (parts under the bed) and creat'in a public nuisance and they all moved back.

@inline6 Watching the ZCon 2018 judges this year, I'm not so sure. I guarantee I never paid more than $600 for any parts car I bought and dismantled. PM me if you want and we can discuss options.

I regret not buying that windshield when we discussed it in that thread, I was more worried about getting the car started. I’ve seen several Zs in junk yards over the past 6 months with windshields but assume they are probably not in the best condition. Will be looking closer next time. BTW that 75 Z is was successfully crushed and now in Z Valhalla. I called the yard last month and its steel was sent to China to make coat hangers, Good luck on your quest. If I come across one that is good I’ll let you know, There is a yard about 90 miles from me that has 4 or 5 unpicked over 280Z’s. I plan of going back next month with a parts list of things I need.

I also made the seat covers and used a cnc punch for the holes. The protective covering is still on the clear plastic. a couple of pictures of before and after my seat restoration....