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Well, looks like she's sold to a local buyer/collector. Gentleman dropped by last night and looked the car over and we eventually finalized a price (North of $40k). So, looks like we will miss out on the BAT action, but I like the buyer a lot and feel like the car is going to a good home. Also looks like I will have visitation rights. So, we will finalize the transaction over the next couple days. I am sure this is probably something I will regret but for now this makes a lot of sense for me. And, I am still hard pressed for storage space. Thanks for all of the complements and support everyone.

I recently completed a throttle cable conversion on my 77 280Z. Combined with my new throttle body, it's smooth as can be. Without going into all the gory details, here's some pics. Here's an overview pic. Cable come through the bulkhead and swerves a soft S-bend towards the master cylinders. This allows some slack in the cable to account for engine movement while running. It also allows clearance for the EGR valve if you are running one. My PO removed mine, but I may reinstall at some point so I wanted the cable to clear. Top level overview: Here's the bulkhead passthrough. I made a threaded adapter and sealing nut on the lathe. The flats allow me to get wrenches on the passthrough from the engine compartment so I don't have to use tools up under the dash. This is the second passthrough I made... First one had the tightening nut on the other side under the dash. It worked fine, but was a real PITA to tighten with wrenches up under there. So I spun it around and made another one with the installation direction reversed:. Don't mind the loose A/C grommet: Here's another pic of the firewall passthrough. In this pic, you can see how the cable is held into the passthrough. The metal ring is crimped into a hex and that clamps down on the cable sheath holding it in place. Since the sheath is pretty much always in compression, it doesn't have to be a hard lock, but it's nice that the sheath is a decent friction fit into the passthrough. Yes, that's a cable RG-6 crimp tool used for cable TV and Ethernet. I got lucky and it works great for what I was doing: Under the dash, I converted over to a different connection design on the pedal. I purchased an already messed up pedal from someone with a failed cable conversion. He had already removed the original ball stud, so I drilled the hole out to the correct size to tap with threads and ran a tap through. I also made an "L" bracket adapter to attach to a Honda Civic throttle cable. I ground a little off the end of the pedal to get the angles right, and... Here's the parts separate: Another pic showing my original pedal next to my modified version. Here's the parts put together. A little blue threadlock on the bolt and it looks like this: So out in the engine compartment for the termination end at the throttle body, I made a bracket that mounts where my AAR used to attach. I have switched over to a different throttle body and the AAR is no longer needed so those holes were re-purposed for my cable bracket: And here's another pic of the bracket up by the throttle body. Note that doing it this way also allows me to adjust the throttle cable play extremely easy using the original Civic adjustment nuts: I'll talk about the cable itself in a little bit.

Today I did some work on the S20, Japan is now nice but little bit chilly in the morning and evening. I adjusted carbs at an airport parking lot before my flig?ht The carbs were summer set up , I was hoping I set for autumn, but I tried not to touch a lot . I felt I must stay with Mr . Watanabe ‘s tuning . My work is not perfect , I am just an amateur . Kats

Great to hear, well done. [emoji106] Imho those plugs look on the hot side, look at this ... If those colours were on the same bank of 3 cyls I would have said carbs, but since they are not, I'm tending towards valve clearances. Now, two questions: 1. Have you adjusted your valve lash clearances? They determine how much / little or consistently across the cyls your valves open and shut and their timing relative to each other. I find my engine (a highly modified L28 but with a mild cam of 270 degrees and .46" lift) reacts very strongly to well adjusted valve clearances. It's more noticeable on a modified engine but the principle is the same for yours. 2. As for your idle, are you running a working vacuum advance? Have you checked it is actually working? Your mix at idle or part throttle will be lean and will require more timing for it to burn well. Mine has a base timing of 17 degrees (higher than stock due to cam) and vacuum advance adds 12 degrees at idle. But as soon as I go on the throttle and open the carb butterflies, the manifold vac drops and timing goes back to 17 + mechanical advance as the revs rise to a total of 34 degrees (without Vac! With vac connected, add 12 degrees to that). A lean mix without sufficient timing will burn hotter. With vac advance, you will find your idle will improve and engine temp at idle or cruise will drop noticeably. Also the cruising to on-power responsiveness improves (not to mention gas mileage). Think of it this way, imagine you have two plates full of gun powder on the floor, one packed with dense gun powder (rich) and one sparsely packed (lean). On the rich one, the gun powder particles are touching, on the lean one there is air between them. Then you light both from the centre - the plate with the denser gun powder burns faster towards the edge. Now imagine you had a fixed amount of time of say 1 second for them to burn before you dump the contents into the trash can. The fully burnt / rich plate dumps hot soot. The lean plate is still combusting and finishes it's burn in the trash can, burning the edges of the bin as it goes in (and that is the edges of your exhaust valves in an engine). Next time around, you light the lean plate half a second ahead of the rich plate. This time, both finish their burn before you dump them. The principle in your engine is exactly the same and your exhaust / header temps will drop with more vac timing at idle. Hope that helps, good luck! BTW, where are you able to do 100mph without getting a blue light escort!? Are you in Germany!? (Joke!) Or a test track?

@Zed Head You’re right, I did mix up who said exactly what. It was member 240dkw who said “I really do not think he [that is, me] is trying to mess with any VIN”, not you. But that’s not all there is to say about that. Notice that member 240dkw responded to what you said by saying that he didn’t think I was “trying to mess with any VIN”. That shows that he interpreted your comments as suggesting that the VIN of my car might have been messed with, possibly by me. Likewise, I also thought that your comments suggested that the VIN of my car might have been messed with. Like commenter 240dkw, I also wondered why you talked about “reVINing” cars, and about a member from Oregon [which I was told was where my car came from] who “feels fine with moving VIN tags over to different bodies”. You were asking questions that both member 240DKw and I interpreted as implying that someone, possibly me, had “messed with the VIN”. And why did you also say: “Not sure why you're not giving more info. Is it one of those sketchy ‘lost title’ cars? The Oregon guy drove it in to Canada and left it maybe? No offense intended but the story has holes”, and that I “did not appear to have proper paperwork” and “Apparently he doesn’t have any transaction paperwork” and “he might not even have proof that the car is his”. Saying that a “story has holes” and those other comments above clearly implies that the storyteller---me---is possibly, or probably, being dishonest. You have no information that would lead to those potentially damaging conjectures. To bring up “reVINing” cars and someone from Oregon who “feels fine with moving VIN tags over to different bodies” in a discussion about my Oregon car is remarkable in the worst possible way, and potentially damaging to me. And saying that “...maybe there are problems with the title or will be in the future” and that “It kind of looks like [I’m] seeking information to help [me] get a proper title” adds nothing other than negative, totally unfounded, doubts about me and the car. You could have asked whether I have a proper title for the car, showing the VIN that I included in my description of the car, or about anything else about the car, but instead you seem to have assumed the worst. As for your comment that “The car has all of the ID tags removed”, it’s surprising that you would take that to mean there are doubts about the car’s authenticity as HLS30-00957. It’s normal for many owners to remove the door plate and the engine bay plate when there’s a compete repaint from the bare shell so there’s no overspray on the plates or need to mask them, which usually looks bad. If you had asked about those tags, or about the VIN etched (not stamped) on the firewall instead of assuming the worst, I could have explained that to you. Your comments that I “did not appear to have proper paperwork” and that I “didn’t mention that had a proper title” are amazing, since there was no reason for you to think those things. All you had to do was ask.....not assume the worst. Those kinds of comments could create doubts about the accuracy of my description of the car as HLS30-00957, whether you intended to create those doubts or not. And that could be very damaging to me and possibly also to whoever owns the car after me when I eventually sell it. I am very surprised that you would be so reckless in your comments on this site, especially since this is the best known website for vintage Z cars. There are reasons why I did not list every piece of information that you think was important or necessary for my request at the top of this thread. Things like the fact that I do not want to name the seller here without knowing that he is OK with that, that the seller was Canadian, not from Oregon, and I that have not been able to contact him because he has moved. Contrary to your implication, I do know the seller’s name and former address, but have not been able to contact him. Unfortunately I don’t have the names or records from any previous owners before him. That's why I posted on this site asking for information. You could have just accepted my approach to asking for help as I did, or you could have requested more information from me, but instead you made a number of very negative assumptions about the situation and about my intentions, and then you broadcast them here, on the best known website about vintage Z cars. I don’t know why you would do that, but I resent your unfounded implications and your approach to “discussion”, which seems to be to assume the worst about someone’s intentions. I think it would be best for everyone, especially for this wonderful site, if you and I had no further communication. @wal280z Thank you for your comments and the tip about the @. I appreciate it. @Carl Beck @240DKW @240260280 @Mark Maras @26th-Z

@Jem2749 If you live in Orlando - first thing to do is come over to Clearwater for a visit - we can spend some garage time together - and go over a lot of Z Car related subjects. drop me an Email - beck@becksysetms.com If the car is being shipped in an enclosed trailer - towed by a pick-up, by a private transporter for example. Then you can use wheel dollies on the rear wheels to load and unload the car. Just jack the car up and slip the wheel dollies under the rear wheels. Then remove them to tie the car down in the trailer. Reverse operation when it get here. DO NOT pull the EBrake lever. DO NOT PULL THE EBRAKE LEVER.!! DO NOT attempt to start the car prior to shipping. Don’t put a battery in it. Wait until you have car home.. Looks like Red to me - also since the rear tail light finisher is painted red - it may have been repainted at some Point. The A/T equipped 240Z’s start in production around 07 or 08 of 70. They seem to have been made in groups during 08, 10 and 11 of 70.

Oh, sorry didn't mean to offend anyone... I just thought it was related because you hammered too much. That wasn't mean to be political, but funny. I'll be careful

Be mindful that not all of our members live in the hill country of Texas. We as a forum group have done a good job of not letting politics get in the way of our fellowship and enjoyment of our cars. We have members from all parts of the US and I am sure we are not monolithic in our political views, and we don't need to be to enjoy getting together and inhaling exhaust fumes. It would probably be best to leave posts that include politics or political views unsubmitted... Just my 2cents

There seems to be so much confusion about tow hooks! How can that be?! The loop eye bolted to the front frame rail is the specified tow hook per the owner's manual and service manuals. There is a load rating given for it. Towing the car from the front is the only concession made. There is no recommendation for pulling or towing the car from the rear. These hooks mounted to the rear bumper brackets are tie-down hooks meant for transportation purposes; keeping a car stationary on a flat surface. That's how the cars were secured during shipping. Sometimes they were removed by the dealer but I see them all the time. They have no structural load rating.

50K with ~8 hours to go. Rich--Your work is so much more thorough and correct. 26thZ and Patcon nailed many of the flaws in the current BaT Z. While I agree it isn't couth to disparage a nice car, you would think 50K would get the correct battery cables, spindle nuts and firewall grommets, etc.---sheesh! I, for one, agree that your offering will indeed set a very high new mark on BaT. You've become one of the most pre-eminent restorers of these cars! Sooo glad I've met you in person!!! You are Awesome!!!!

Hi guys, It looks like the wife and I will likely be heading to Japan in early 2019. Do you guys have any suggestions on what (or who) to see? I'm thinking the Nissan Heritage Museum will be a good stop. Was also considering a visit with some local contacts while I am there - @kats and/or Shoji over at Starroad. There will also be other things too (eating and visiting local temples, etc.. ) Anyway, do you guys have any other ideas? Zcar and non-zcar related are welcome. Thank you! Mike

I believe a lot of this is misunderstanding and the limitations of communicating through a forum. I dont think zed head is trying to impugn or injure anyone but for all I know he got taken by someone on the internet and is a little suspicious now. We have also occasionally had discussions on altering vins in the past and some people are more ok with that then others. As these cars become more valuable and the production history is so hit or miss it may become a bigger problem. History has shown zed head to always be available to help solve problems. By the way I'm not paranoid if everyone's really out to get me. ?

I was thinking that but not sure thank you

You can't just imply that someone is tampering with a VIN tag, or withholding pertinent info like they're intentionally hiding something and not expect them to be annoyed. You've done this before, in the thread by 87mj, and now you're doing it again, assuming that the person posting is up to no good when in reality, they're just looking for info or advice. You're out of line. And quite frankly, I really don't know where you come up with this stuff to begin with. I don't think anyone else reading his posts saw any ill intent on his part.

Thanks, guys. I'm not looking to do a ground-up restoration for the foreseeable future. This would be a driver I can enjoy and fix/modify little things here and there. Maybe years down the line commit to putting it on a rotisserie, or sell and buy one already restored.

Great! It will be a fun trip. We are looking at visiting Tokyo and possibly taking the trains to visit other cities during the journey. Kats tells me that Kyoto is very good. I've already been to both Tokyo and Osaka in the past, but, this time we will be doing some sightseeing. Not sure if Tokyo Disney is an option (or even worth the hassle) but we are definitely open for other ideas. I would really like to see Mt Fuji from the ground. We flew over it on our way to China earlier this year and it's an amazing mountain!

Mike watching too. Looking at going in August 2019. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

No different from just about anywhere else in the world I can think of then... My point being that a photo of Jaremko Motors from '73 disappointingly doesn't show the vast queues of prospective 240Z owners around the block and teams of Jaremko-branded overall wearing minions throwing TOPY wheels and hubcaps in the dumpster, bolting on slot 'mag' wheels and plastic chrome belt line trim while salesmen in Sears sport coats and white loafers count wads of cash. That Bronco looks nice though.

Jaremko Motors 1973

I turned my attention to the thermostat housing and realized I needed to temporarily mount it on the engine in order to get the top cover bolts out. Luckily they did not snap off but they were in awful shape. Luckily, I ordered all new hardware from MSA for this project and so far it has paid for itself many times over. I am using an oil pan drain plug to cap one of the holes and upon closer inspection I can see it was hitting the thermostat. I will take note of this when I install the new thermostat as thermostat core is not centers and can be turned away from the plug. The housing will get a complete clean up and paint job before re-assembly.

Had a super busy week at work last week so this weekend was not as productive as I was hoping. I did manage to the get the intake painted which came out really good. While it dried I used my tap to clean out the holes for the mounting studs. M8x1.25 for anyone that needs to know. This really makes all the difference in the world! There no shortage of debris in the holes along with some slightly damaged threads, all of which were corrected with the tap. I used WD-40 to keep it lubricated as I am not looking to cut new threads, just clean up what is there. Installing the ARP studs was easy peasy. Hung the intake on for a photo.

Tape measure quality measurements: About 14.5 inches direct shot (as the crow files). About 4" elevation change (the holes in the intake manifold are 4" higher than the hole in the firewall). About 3" side-to-side change (the holes in the intake manifold are about 3" further toward the centerline of the vehicle than the hole in the firewall). And remember that you want a little slack in the cable between the firewall and the engine to allow for engine movement. You don't want it so tight that when the engine moves, it changes the throttle position.

Packages showed up! Mail strikes suck when parts take an extra week to get here. So the Mr. Gasket cable looks very well made. It fits inside the linkage guides perfect. The firewall length will be close... anyone with a 280 able to measure the distance to the end linkage loop on the intake from the firewall?

Congratulations Rich and also to the gentleman who purchased your car. He got a extremely nice example of a stock restored 240Z!

Hi blue, a lot of homework! I think it is a good idea to discuss about that at a new thread .? Kats

STOP THE HAMMERING! Sent from my OP 3T using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I have used the POR prep and it is a good product. I order Eastwood products online no problem. You can also get some Eastwood products at KMS Tools in Canada.

I'm betting 905 Monte Carlo Red. Its an early car and probably worth more in a stock configuration, but it's your car. Nice find! No, you don't really need to do anything more other than get it rolling before you ship it. Probably air up the tires.

working on the tune. She is sounding good! A34048CD-4027-4177-88A4-AF31256D785B.MOV