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I'd recommend contacting ZTherapy.com and order their "Just SUs" DVD. Lot's of info and tests you can do to improve the performance of the SUs. I would fill both carbs with 20w to the level indicated on the rear carb. Fire it up and see what it needs next.

My thoughts exactly.....”If it ain’t broke, don’t break it!”

Calibrated builder's eyes!

Probably a leaf blower at the ends of the intake tubes...

My Sahara Gold 1971, which I was rebuilding the entire undercarriage, upgrade the motor with a mild race cam, a set of triple Mikuni´s and a Z-Story Exhaust system etc. are finally ready for some indian summer rides.. All in all, it has been a blast, working on this project and the numbers of trial and error are to a minimum. as for all work, there will be some small adjustments, and I think I´m through them all, at this moment. The last small things was done this afternoon in my workshop, and was attended the front and rear number rubber, as I took the bumbers of, I decided to delete the horns at the front, and before putting the new rubber corners on, I cleaned and polished the chrome work.. Now, all I need is to get the number plates some times next week, and drive it, just in time before winter.....

Thanks for correcting my rash statement on "no vacuum", I overlooked the dizzy advance.

In that these cars had NO vacuum lines other than the brake booster, the quick answer is none are needed. Look closely and you'll see that they are attached to the overflow ports on the carb float bowls. Normally these ports would be connected to the factory air filter box so the PO connected them to the CAI tubing. Right now your safe bet is to leave it all in place. Long-term, clean it all up by removing the CAI setup as previously recommended and get a stock air filter box back on it. Here's a pic of a heat shield missing from your set-up, it bolts to the intake manifolds and provides a significant barrier of exhaust heat to the bottom of the carbs. It can be installed with a header as on your car.

Just came back from the 14th 2018 JCCS at Long Beach Ca. It was a 500 cars show....WHAT a turn out.Won 2nd Place in Skylines.The 1st was a Hako.

Yep was there and WHAT a turn out. Showed my Kenmeri and got the 2nd place in Skylines......

I have some fun for us all though. I'm not positive but I think that somebody has installed the plate on the bottom of the distributor backwards or sideways. Not even sure how the distributor is clamped down to avoid rotation when the engine is running. Might explain many past problems. Where is the screw?

hahaha I have the fuel section of the FSM downloaded although I cant see where the short rod would go

Good luck, have fun, hope it works out for you. Dennis

hope so, made a few more test lines, I tested it, looks like its about 5 ohms per inch, so will have to go measure the grid and see what that works out to be. Will also see if that changes after it cures overnite. if that's the case, then 36" wide times 5=180 ohms,/16 grids +11ohms=about 1 amp, not enough to generate any real heat (12-13 watts max). I will check the resistance again after it cures, and see if adding another layer of paint will get it down to a lower number. just a guess but I would think 1ohm per inch would get to about 65 watts, at about 5 amps, which I think is prob about 1/2 of what it should be when you consider it used a relay to control the current and not just a switch. I don't recall the fuse size but if it was a 10amp then again guessing 5amp would be a target amount if it had a 20amp then they prob wanted 10amp or about 120watts. to get that I would need about .5 ohm per inch. One thing for sure, the copper lines sure are purdy!

we're gonna need a bigger fridge