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I'm going to chime in on this as I just went through a very lengthy exercise to source a new set of tires and wheels for my car. So for reference, mine is a late manufacture 260Z (read that as 280Z). I run Eibach lowering springs and Tokiko illuminas. My present setup uses 16 x 7" Konig Rewinds (0 offset) on Michelin Pilot Sport 225-50X16. I have zero clearance problems on the front and some very minor rubbing on the rear when I go over hard bumps at speed. Rolling the rear fenders solved 90% of that problem. My only regret is that I did not do the rolling before the car was painted which made the task a lot more challenging. I would suggest that if you are going to go with a more aggressive setup that you have your fenders rolled prior to paint. My initial motivation was to get a set of real summer tires that would provide a stickier grip for summer driving. I really liked the Michelins I have on the car now, but they are more of an all season tire and I really wanted to switch to a summer tire. In discussing this with my son Alex (and for those of you who know him, his feedback will not be surprising), his input was "Hey dad, if you are going to get new tires, you may as well get a new set of wheels as well so you have the option of switching tires and wheels and achieving a different look". Extra expense aside, his feedback made sense to me so I was off to the races seeking a new set of wheels and tires for my car. On the wheels, I really wanted something that was different from the most common wheels used on the S30's (ie Watanabe's, Konig's, Enkei's, etc) but I had no idea that finding something a little out of the ordinary was going to be so difficult. The big issue here is finding a wheels with the right bolt pattern and the right offset with a width that will not interfere. For the front, I found that a 0 offset was ideal but try finding a modern, non-standard Z wheel that is visually appealing and meets all of the specs. I spent weeks looking for something suitable and frankly only came up with a couple of options and almost all of them were wider than what I was already running (either 8 or 8.25" wide) and this raised concern about clearance in the front. As it turns out, a 0 offset will clear the strut and spring and will also clear the fenders. The strut clearance is acceptable but it does not provide a lot of room for error, so in my opinion any wheels with a positive offset would potentially interfere with the strut / spring and a negative offset would likely result in fender clearance problems. The rears are a lot more forgiving on the strut side but I wanted wheels to match the front so I also decided to go with 0 offset for the rears as well. So in the end I decided on a set of XXR's in Chromium Black, 16 x 8.25, 0 offset. Unfortunately I did not find a lot of summer tires that would fit this wheel, but ended up with Pirelli Trofeo R's. They are basically track tires meant to be used on the street, and are pretty aggressive, very soft compound, and sticky as hell. I also decided that I wanted to try a staggered tire setup as I do like the visual look of slightly larger tires on the rear than on the front. Totally understand the downside of doing this (ie can't rotate, etc) but my main motivation was visual appearance along with acceptable performance. So in the end, I went with 225-50x16 up front and 245-45x16 in the rear. Finally, I am not a huge fan of black wheels and had a high level of concern about how these were going to look, but my son convinced me to go for it, which I did. Fortunately, these are powercoated in chromium black and so look more chrome than black depending on the lighting, so I am quite happy with the end result. In any case a long winded story to a simple question, but I do hope it helps those trying to find something that's a little different than the ordinary. I will say that the easiest way to solve this problem would have been to go for a set of complete custom wheels made to my exact specs, but in checking into this as an option the cost was through the roof. For what it would have cost for one custom wheel, I got a complete set of 4 with money left over to put towards my tires. So that is definitely an option, but you better have deep pockets if you plan to go that route. Here's a few pictures with the final result.

Here's the comparison pic between 240 and 260 from that other thread: I'm wondering if anyone has done a similar comparison for the 280's.

Is that the flattest surface you can find? Your level is sitting on a plant. The ground looks gravelly. Looks like a fair idea but execution is iffy. A carpenter's square would get you closer.

One correction that needs to be made to Datsunzgarage in the Engine section "Seventh - Ignition" it talks about if you do a 81 to 83 distributor you'll have to swap the E12-92 for an E12-80 module. This is NOT true. The E12-92 module works EXACTLY like the E12-80 module when you only use the "C" and "B" connections, just don't hook up anything else. I've been running an E12-92 module on my car for years with only the C and B connections and it works just like the E12-80.

Got a hold of Harmon Classic Brakes, Georgia and it looks like 64-65 Mustang boot fits. Thanks for the help

Ok! Go Hoover!!!! @240260280 I'll settle up with you in Atlanta So I got the Mustang brake booster kit in from Harmon Classic Brakes today I think that diaphragm is going to work great! I haven't looked through the rest of the kit yet Old diaphragm New diaphragm OD 6-13/16" 6 3/4" ID 2.59" 2.42" Hub OD 2.65" at diaphragm I suspect the ID on the old disc is stretched from having been on the hub for so long They basically look identical except for the tears in the old one and the deformation from having been previously installed

Would Datsunzgarage be here? http://datsunzgarage.us/

Except for the fact that really wide tires on the back looks really really cool. OK. I'll stop now.

'73 automatic for $3,200. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/224104808219824/ $3,200 Driven 48,565 miles Automatic transmission Mechanically sound, ready to drive or for someone to finish restoration. This car has been in the family since 1984. It was reupholstered, painted and in cherry condition in 1987. Poor thing sat for 20yrs here in Central Oregon before coming to me in 2007. I won’t get into the time and money I’ve scraped together in order to get it where it is, but I’m done and hoping to find an enthusiast to take over.

I like the Maxima N47 head. It is one of the later heads and seems to have the same geometry as modified E31's for racing. The exhaust ports are fine. Larger intake seats will help it. btw it is nice to get a HP data point from your work! 185HP 10.2CR 2.82litre

Another option is to remove the strut tops, heat them to remove the rubber insert, cut 1" (or whatever) off the rubber, insert into the metal cup and then fold the metal sides over to hold it in place. You'll want to cut 4 slices in the metal side to fold it over in 4 sections. Does that make sense? Chuck

The answer is in your picture.