Leaderboard

Don't give up on chanting Ed Zachary. Works for me on this thread. As for help from my wife, I'm sure she'd be willing to sell you some answers to the IQ and personality test questions. You're on your own with block design, however. In the meanwhile, if you don't think "Ed Zachary" is helping, try repeating "2016 Erection". Dennis

Uh oh. I feel an addiction coming on. Keeping the other one too, or is this the replacement? Looks like a nice car, although there's a few adjustments I'd have to make (wheels and tail light surrounds). Congrats! (again)

I just poured motor oil over the chain before the first start up. The tensioner has it's own oil supply hole on front of the block and as long as you prime the oiling before cranking it should be fine.

Is #6 135 or 185? Hard to tell from here. I'm sure it's 185, well pretty sure and those are great readings. I feel like you have the main problem resolved, getting the floats right. You owe Mark a big ole THANK YOU. Just know that you need to baby it until it reaches temp. No need for full choke until then though. It'll spit and sputter with full choke while driving. My suggestion is run full choke before getting on the road, you'll be able to look at the motor while it gets warm. Check for leaks and just a good overall inspection before running it up to 110mph. How are your brakes by the way? Can't remember you talking about them in the past. You don't want any supplies-es at 110! You know Ed Zachery what I mean. We want you to be around for the 2020 Erection. @psdenno

Spend a little more for a good kit than those cheap ones on ebay. My 280 has a $60 one from ebay and I got one from a Z specific online for $100. The quality difference of the parts was daylight and dark. It was a True Line? or something like that. The ebay was Chinese and the other American made. Cheap one had rough edges on the tensioner body and all black links on the chain. You could compare them on amazon and look for the higher rating. Good luck in your search.

No offense intended to you or your family members but I'd run that thing over to CO and let him have a look. Sounds like you have an odd mismatch of dimensions or something is bent. He did offer, and he does drive a train you know...

Clevite Assembly Lube: Rocker Pivot Tops Rocker Arms (both contact surfaces and socket) Valve Tip Lash Pad (top, sides, and bottom) Cam Lobes Cam Rotating contact surfaces Cam Tower Surfaces Main Bearings (inside, and sides of thrust) Crank Rotating contact surfaces (main and rod) Rod Bearings (inside)

Response to Mark: Did they slide freely before the rebuild?<- Yes, Use a Sharpie pen on the piston. <-I'm assuming you mean to look for scuffs when I move the piston up/down? You might also try leaving the 4 screws slightly loose and gradually tighten them as the piston is being slid up and down. <- I need to hold the dome down or it will lift when I move the piston Did you try switching the pistons too? <-I'll try that maybe tonight. Response to 240260280 Remove needle and plunger, Install dome but with all 4 screws very loose and not touching dome, Rotate Dome CCW and CW while lifting and dropping piston to explore where it binds and does not bind. Put dome in middle of its free rotation limits. Turn down 4 screws so they just kiss the metal dome <- this is where I don't understand. The dome screw holes will only permit two orientations. Neither resolves the problem, even with the needle removed. Response to the Great CO: If the piston is sticking even without the needle installed, then it should stick even without the dome installed on the carb body. <- No, it freely moves without the dome but sticks with the dome. With that in mind... Did you try mixing and matching all the domes, pistons, and carb bodies? Maybe something got mixed up during the rebuild? <-That is a strong possibility. I've only tried switching the domes but not the pistons. I'll try that tonight. Did you accidentally drop a piston or a dome? <-not that I recall but if I can figure out how to mount the piston and dome on a rotating jig, I can use a precision micrometer to look for deformation. My next steps: 1) Switch the pistons and domes around in all combinations to try to isolate the problem. 2) Mark the piston with something that easily rubs off and figure out what is rubbing against what.

I think the seat hit the piston...thus the wider diameter that hit. Missed it by that much. Piston damage is actually very minimal. Yeah, the motor was built with all the right stuff......but the dude was asleep at the wheel when he installed that particular seat. I'll hand it off in the next week or so and then we'll go from there. Honestly...I'm just glad to have found the problem and will rest assured that it will all be good from here. Heck, we might even get this thread back to being about tuning carbs sometime.

I suppose I have to since I was foolish enough to volunteer for the organizing committee.

But maybe if it has sharp pointy teeth ? https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rabbit_of_Caerbannog

So I have used the Rare Parts ITR ends on a couple of different rack rebuilds and they work great. All of the ones that you see from T3, Z Car Depot, etc are all the Rare Parts ones. I can definitely vouch for the quality and performance of the part. Looks a little different from the OEM one but works perfectly. I can also tell you for sure that the ZX TRE do not work on S30's. I purchased a set from Rock Auto that were listed for the S30 but turns out they were for the ZX and are nothing like the ones for our cars. I also know that you can get the Rare Parts ITR ends for around $60 but I'll have to look up the site where I purchased them Let me know if you are interested in that information. Mike.

I'm putting in more resistance in addition to what was originally in there, so I'm actually significantly under-driving the LED's. Remember... I'm trying to decrease brightness. I'm thinking that I should never ever have to go back in there again. Not for about 50K hours anyway. My soldering technique is better than the kid in China that put them together the first time and I used enough glue to assure they won't easily twist apart like they did originally.

I know e bay has cheap parts but some times they do not. I bought a set of ball joints and were great, had the grease fitting and the snap ring. Years ago I had bad experiences with MSA but these past years they been great. Napa has the Ball joint also.