Leaderboard

S20 head , type K4 which is the final version (approximately 1972 and later) upgraded its material and internal shape for better performance and strength. Kats

A race option heat shield and air cleaner boxes for L series engine. This boxes are the same part which was used for the factory rally cars . Kats

Hi, two vintage Zs are going on sale here, http://bhauction.jp/search/lot15.html Estimate price is too optimistic, but let's see how it goes. Merry Christmas Kats

Where did the year go? Glad to have so many friends here. Janet & I hope you see many of you again in 2018!

Makes me want a do over of my 2.4 rebuild. 8^( Congratulations Craig.

Those are good points. Don't leave out volatiles, which can dirty up windows pretty quickly. Hate to be negative but there are many ways to go wrong. Finding a material to make the shape isn't too hard, finding one that meets the demands of use is more work. An installed dash after a test run in Las Vegas summer would answer some questions. Pretty sure that there's a setting in Facebook that opens viewing to the public. Then we could all see it without logging in .

AARP260 just bought the engine......congrats Craig....I built her with tender loving care and all (and I do mean all, down to the front cover and oil pan bolts) new parts. Guy

GFR was one of the best of 70s bands

Hi Gave , if I find this I will let you know. Or some one can make it from a sheet metal. Yesterday I picked up my blue 240Z from a museum to have some work . I dropped my 240ZG there instead of it. I replaced a battery which I bought in 2004 ! to a new one, it was an amazingly durable battery , when I brought this blue 240Z to the ZCON long beach LA 2004, I visited Bakers field Nissan then I bought this black battery and installed at the dealer. A former battery which was on my car was presented to the dealer . The former battery was like a new at that time but it was white YUASA one , I wanted black battery. This time I found YUASA black one, I will decorate like old Nissan wrapping. And the water system, terribly bad condition in a decade, I replaced hoses and water pipes. Kats

Nice part no. 16500-E4620. I didn't know there was that heat shield available. I am interested in this set up on my 72 240z.

Thanks Alan, logical explanation about the clamps , and we have nice twin factory's exhaust systems ! Thanks Carl, about the story of the clamps and detailed driving expression. I am thinking I may install it to my Z432 or not. Hi Jason240z, not special recently, but Santa brought me a new head for Z432 and some presents for my L24. Merry Christmas Kats

Ditto !!!!

It works great as a carb cleaner as well!

Are you looking to produce one for right hand drive vehicles as well?

The Z looks Fantastic ! A side note, since you mentioned it: About the windshield wipers - - interesting story in Mr. Uemura’s Book about the development of the windshield wipers - needed to clear the windshield. They even looked at treating the windshield with a product that sounds like RainX.. seems the wipers originally experienced a lot “aerodynamic lift” at higher speeds, and wouldn’t clear the rain drops off the windshield. The finally used that wire frame on the blades as the best solution to reduce the aerodynamic lift.

Hi Kats, any update with your amazing cars?

Hi Kats: My first 240Z - HLS30 01777 -purchased in March of 1970 - did not have the Clamp on the steering rack. It was Dealer Installed - as I recall - sometime around Nov./ Dec. of 1970. I had taken the Z back to the Dealer because the shocks were leaking again. They installed the Clamp at that time and pointed it out to me. Even before that time we knew the steering rack was too loosely mounted - you could feel it in the steering wheel. The steering rack had a lot of play (movement) in its original rubber mounts. You could feel this during hard driving - on an Auto-X course for example. At the time, the cure was to place a section of Lead tire weights - the type used to balance aluminum wheels - thin strips of lead with two sided stick-on adhesive - on top of the rubber rack isolators - and then clamp everything down firmly. This tightened up the steering response. This having already been done - I never noticed any difference with or without that Clamp installed. If I had to guess - the Clamp and Bumper was just a way to limit the amount of travel the Rack had in the soft rubber mounts. FWIW, Carl B.

Kats, If this is for the L24 in your 240ZG, I would go with the later system. It seems to me that it is more appropriate for the later car. For my 432-R replica project car (1970 Fairlady Z-L based) I found a full 20010-E4201 and 20050-E4200 system. I am using an R192 diff in the stock, early, location. Pipe bending/shaping on the early system is very distinctive!

Hi Kats, My impression is that the white paint mark on the 'U' clamp corresponds with the rubber 'snubber' block. The thread on that side is longer, and corresponds with the snubber block. When fitting, you tighten the nut on the side with the shorter thread just to the point where it is snug, then you tighten the nut on the snubber side so that the snubber block is firmly against the crossmember. The longer thread on that side allows you to do that. That's the way I've fitted them before, and it seems to make sense to me.

And a few photos. Kats