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They changed a whole bunch of sheet metal all over the car in 77, including that rear area. And because of that, the 77/78 situation is more complicated. For your 75, you've got all sorts of options. "Help me I'm missing something!" Rust? You're missing rust, right?

Replaced my rear main seal for the third time...hoping that the third time is the final time. It took me and a friend 6 hours. He has a lift so we just pulled the tranny. I used a 3" PVC cap (NIBCO 3" PVC #4817) I got at Home depot as a seal setter. It worked really well. So far no leaks, no drips, no errors. Fingers crossed. Cheers, Mike

I did the Xenon air dam on my 260Z along with stainless steel bumpers. There is a version of the Xenon air dam for the 280Z that doesn't have the lower turn signals.

Time to break your problem in to pieces, I think. Try this, if you can get the engine to start again - let it sit and idle. For a long time. There won't be any fuel sloshing around in the tank, just the pump pushing it around in a circle. Watch the pressure, listen to the pump and the various relays involved in supplying power. If it idles for many minutes (longer than three laps around the block at least), then you can focus on stuff in the tank. If it does the same thing as before, at least you'll have a clue, that's it not some large thing sloshing around in the tank Then, if you want to take the tank out of the picture, run your supply and return lines in to a gas can under or beside the car. Do the same thing, let the engine idle. See what happens. You can do the same thing as above, but without the engine running at all . Just jump the fuel pump relay or hot wire the fuel pump. Let it spin and push fuel. See what happens. Actually, that's what I'd do first, because it's quieter and you'll be able to hear the pump. You're trying to think about too many things at once. Turn the big problem in to several small ones.

Maybe my engineering backgrounds lends itself to more of a 'push your way thru and get it done ' mentality

And a few photos. Kats

You can stop with all of the over the top craftsmanship and attention to detail. Not sure if I want to completely redo my 71 or not even bother trying to achieve your level of work. I think I will stick to resto mods and utilize my artistic license to skirt around all that hard work and relentless perfection

You can read through my thread. Might give yoh some pointers. If you need anything, just send a pm. Impo done properly, it really looks good.

@Eurodat for the bumper conversion parts. His system is artwork.

I used a 240 air dam and bumpers. If this floats your boat I can give details. You should search Eurodat up too. He did a nice detailed post on the conversion.

You can a have a perfectly balanced " square tire" . It won't roll very smoothly though. Old tires that are sitting flat are a prime candidate for hidden internal damage. If they've been sitting flat for any appreciable length of time..... get new tires as others have mentioned. Go through the whole suspension ( and brakes ) top to bottom. Plan on replacing ALL of the suspension bushings if they are still original. Beware of the Poly kits. They can cause more harm than good, particularly in the Tension Rods and Front lower control arms.

#0509, pretty low. Be interesting to see if any one thinks it's worth 23k. It seems to have some rust so some pictures or the more rust prone areas would be good.

I got the rolling chassis back from Miguel today and the paint is just AMAZING, way better than I was anticipating. The clear coat is like smooth glass. Factory paint NEVER looked this good. Anyway, nice to have it back in my garage. I removed the a lot of the protective paper which was like unwrapping presents on Christmas, very enjoyable. I did clean up the spare tire area and put that in. I am now removing the the front suspension. Will have most of the parts powder coated and fasteners zinc plated. I got a new Energy suspension kit to install once the parts are finished.

RUSSIA!