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Apologize and I'm sorry are way traveled down the road. Opinions make all this fun. If you want to be a play like moderator you'll need to go back and read 10 years worth of post. There's a lot of history in play, I suggest stay out of it. We are all grown men and have the choice to ignore or reply. I chose to ignore the silly stuff and pay attention to the facts. HS-30 has a lot of knowledge as does Zed Head. A lot of guys don't agree with me but twice as many do.

I got the rolling chassis back from Miguel today and the paint is just AMAZING, way better than I was anticipating. The clear coat is like smooth glass. Factory paint NEVER looked this good. Anyway, nice to have it back in my garage. I removed the a lot of the protective paper which was like unwrapping presents on Christmas, very enjoyable. I did clean up the spare tire area and put that in. I am now removing the the front suspension. Will have most of the parts powder coated and fasteners zinc plated. I got a new Energy suspension kit to install once the parts are finished.

Zed Head we don't want you to go away. We want you to be a team player and a positive contributor. Just write a little direct apology to HS30-H and the "low vin" members who you insulted. Write it here. After all, you did insult them. And they had done nothing to you. So its not their fault they got offended. All the "low vin" guys did was take the time to provide carnutatthebeach with factual, direct and thorough information about his car. It would of taken carnutatthebeach weeks or months to find this info out on his own. They did this new member a real solid and demonstrated what the spirit of this web site should be. And, without provocation, you insulted them for it. So show the new member we are not a bunch of gesticulating hooting monkeys flinging poo at each other. Show him that you can rise above the butt hurt and be the bigger man. Apologize to HS30-H. I don't even know the guy but I am sure he will graciously accept your apology. Get this done so we can move forward, come back and lets get this very informative and interesting thread back on subject.

You can hear the exhaust leak in the video.

Haven't had a chance to take any more logs or make any changes. But based on that last one using 165/215.....should 175/235 do it? I figure make a larger jump with the corrector to flatten it. I'll try to take another log tomorrow just to confirm where I'm at.

http://www.datsunworks.com/Blog/ It makes me wish I had a few thousand to spend.

I spent a lot of time cleaning the area at the base of the bolt of rust so that the PB Blaster could sit in a groove and seep in. Also cleaned up the sides of the stub and filed flats in it so that my Vise Grips would get a firm purchase. Then, when trying to turn it, never forced it. Once I got some movement I worked it forward and backward, to work in more lubricant and break up the rust. I waited a lot also which you might not be able to do. The basic message is - don't use brute force. It already broke once. Even if you weld a nut to the stub, you can still break it so be careful.

Gave her a bath Casey

Very misleading thread title.

Well said, dodging monkey poo and all. Hahaha. I can tell you all are an awesome group of guys/gals.

You didn't start anything. ZED HEAD fabricated the "not worthy" statement, no one else. Yes - he is one of "those guys" - looking for arguments, quick to insult and paranoid.

You know Zed Head, you swung the first purse. It was a civil discussion until you thought you "saw a fin in the water" and started dropping insults. Spin it how you want, but you started it, like usual. You really ought to apologize directly to HS30-H. And to carnutatthebeach for ruining his thread. And to the whole forum for collectively casting us in bad light. Your crap is why I quit coming here for so long. I see nothing has changed.

So what was the "low VIN club guys" comment all about then?

(my bold) What's the "..."not worthy" thing..." you are referring to? Have I missed some posts? With respect, I think you have to expect straight talk on a marque specialist forum. I'm not going to blow smoke up your rear end for you and if I see claims - no matter who they are attributed to - that I believe are mistaken, unlikely or just plain wrong then I'm going to speak up. I think it's fair to say that I know a little bit about the Japanese market models and I'm probably one of their most passionate advocates on this forum. I think I have a pretty good handle on what your car was and is, and if you put it in front of us on this forum I'm going to say it as I see it. As a car enthusiast, I can't believe you would honestly want to hear only *good stuff* or have people swallow every tenth-hand tale whole? If you acknowledge this forum's integrity - which I think you have done, by asking your questions here - then you have to accept that you might not necessarily be pleased by every response you get. Am I right? My feeling is that these cars can tell us a lot if we only learn to listen. Your Fairlady - even from the limited photos you have posted - says quite a lot about itself. I think the fact that the rear arches have not been cut, and that the trailing edges of the lower section on the G-nose have not been relieved says a lot, and it's likely that it has never been fitted with very wide wheels, as many were in-period. My personal view is that this is a good thing, both for the lower panel of the G-Nose (they are worth more if they have not been chopped) and the 'shell of the car, which is - in my opinion - better off in stock configuration. I've already stated that I think it very unlikely that this car was circuit raced in period (scrutineering for even the most basic clubmans races in Japan would require fuel and safety-related changes that would be difficult to erase completely) and I also think it much more likely the RHD to LHD conversion was done in USA than in Japan. Some deeper research would surely answer a lot of questions. You asked about value but - as has been pointed out - the photos are not enough to go on. In my first reply I asked about the firewall-engraved body number, but you have not answered that question. It's quite an important point for the destiny of the car, I think. So too are the details of the RHD to LHD conversion. From your description, it sounds as though this was not a whole firewall change and that the original RHD details were covered or patched? To my mind that makes it more viable to be reversed. As an early 1970 production car, it surely makes much more sense to turn it back to its original RHD layout - even if you are forced to use slightly later componentry (such as the dash, for instance) - as if it's kept in LHD configuration it is neither fish nor fowl. It doesn't need to be 100% stock. Some Japanese period-correct touches would not be frowned on, but I think it needs that RHD layout for it to actually mean something in the context of its true origin and its original market. The G-nose, to my mind, seems a little incongruous on an early 1970 car. Stock body would surely make more sense?

See that? Three sentences that make me think I've taken acid and accidentally wandered onto zcar.com. I mean really, WTF? LOL... If there was any low-VIN bingo going on I certainly didn't notice it. Shame I missed it if there was, as I would have enjoyed the delicious irony. Here's a heads-up for you; The car in question is (according to the engine bay identity tag) an S30-prefixed, early 1970 production dated 'Fairlady Z-L'. Harry Potter would struggle to make it a "240Z". Even Nissan Shatai would struggle with that one.

It's almost impossible to take a stab at value in current condition with so few photos to go on. From what I see so far, it's in a bit of a mess. The true extent of the corrosion is a worry, as is the nature of the 'LHD conversion'. From your photos so far it looks as though wiper configuration was included, so perhaps radical changes to sheetmetal under the cowl (what happened to the heater inlet duct 'chimney'?). To reverse all that might be difficult, requiring RHD parts to replace. Properly restored? I think it's a moot point. Again, from the limited photos I see a LOT of original parts missing. Rounding up the correct parts for an early production LHD car is hard enough, but you can multiply it by a factor of ten for early RHD. If you start writing out a list it gets long pretty quick, and long means expensive. Proper restoration costs would easily outstrip the value of the finished car in your market. This is a car that needs to find an owner who will do what it takes without paying too much attention to the bottom line.

Yes, hood hinge and front bumper look to be correct for genuine Nissan-supplied items. Hard to value with so few photos though. Condition is important.

Some observations; 'S30-01036' would indeed be an early 1970 production (probably January or early February) S30-S Standard model 'Fairlady Z' or S30 Deluxe model 'Fairlady Z-L'. A closer look at your remaining trim and accessories should tell you whether it was a Standard or Deluxe model, but it's more likely to be a Deluxe just based on the law of averages and the stainless trim that I can see. The G-Nose assembly, whether it indeed is a genuine factory item or an early aftermarket copy, would have been attached to the car after (probably quite a way after) October 1971. The original colour of the car looks to be #905 red, which would be correct for a 1970 production Fairlady Z or Z-L. The 'Grand Prix Red' choice on the Fairlady 240ZGs was actually #110, so a different shade. It's kind of a moot point anyway as your car clearly isn't a Fairlady 240ZG. I don't see anything specific that would point to circuit race use in-period. The seats are aftermarket sports seats and are certainly not factory race seats, the centre drop bar brackets for the roll hoop look to be an aftermarket copy of the Nissan Sports Option items (yours appear simplified in comparison to originals) and there's an awful lot of interior re-trim with non-standard materials evident, along with a later centre console. It looks like a fairly typical 70s/80s 'street tune' car to me. The photo of the left door interior looks - to me - to show it is a later replacement. Does the engine bay tag match up with the body serial number engraved on the firewall?

Cool. Just wanted to quadruple check. Good luck with your efforts, and I hope they pay off soon. Have you considered M-80's?

The Japanese market got the choice of L24-engined S30-series Zs when they were added to the domestic lineup in late September 1971, installed in the HS30-S 'Fairlady 240Z', HS30 'Fairlady 240Z-L' and HS30-H 'Fairlady 240ZG'. They were discontinued in late 1973 following the effects of the Yom Kippur War, the OPEC oil embargo and the consequent 'Oil Shock' in Japan.

I know you said you bought a sledge hammer , but I would have recommended a 3-5 lb dead blow hammer( not a rubber mallet) . Then you could hit the head directly anywhere , for the most part , from any direction without holding wood too. A miss with the sledge will break aluminum, but unlikely with a dead blow. It sounds like your just hitting it from one side also. You need to hit it from every angle to break things loose.

Harbor Freight also. If you get some constant lifting force from the rafters, or from below with a 2x4, then pound/tap on the broken bolt piece that will help break that bond. The broken piece will stretch a bit and each "tap" will compress it, causing it to move it out of the hole a fraction of an inch with each blow. Eventually a gap will open somewhere and you can start filling the gaps with wedges. .

After I had tried all the suggestions, the "final solution" was to use a crow bar and a block of wood on the driver side where the PCV tube comes out of the block. There is a lip of the head that hangs over a little over that ledge on the engine block. I put the block of wood underneath the lip of the head and used the Ledge on the engine block for leverage. Do not lever off the tube to do this, just the part of the eng. block sticking out. Use slow steady pressure while pushing down on the crowbar. When it lifted a little, I stuck some plastic wedges used for tile from Home Depot to hold it .Maybe it was a combination of everything else but that is when actual separation happened.

There's some square "knobs" on both sides of the head I believe. Something else I thought of, a ractchet strap around the cam and a rafter would work too. A little pressure today a little more tomorrow and so on. It'll crack loose soon enough. Good luck and we'll be all over it if you need help, that's a common problem.

Some type of a chain hoist/come along from a ceiling rafter or an engine hoist around the cam. Little pressure today, little more tomorrow. I've used a floor jack and a 2x4 to push up from the bottom too. If you can get it to break somewhere a flat nail puller or a stiff putty knife will work. Just remember the block is steel the head aluminum so work off the block if and when you can.

I broke your wordblock in to edible chunks. Is there any gap at all, anywhere? We need a visual. The head bolt that broke might be rusted in place. Is it rusty? If it is, you might have to spend a lot of time rocking the head back and forth around that broken piece, until the rust breaks up. I had that problem and just had to rock it back and forth and stick wedges and things in to the gaps to get it to work up off of the broken piece.

Stiction??

Noah, welcome to the site. Usually in your case, assuming you are correct and all fasteners are removed, the leverage from a long bar in the head ports & the rubber mallet method works well. When all else fails, some have used a engine hoist to lift the head off the block. the cars weight will overcome the stiction of the head & block. Patience is the key... best of luck.

My experience along with a lot of good advice posted here..

You need to hurry up and get the car back on the road! My turbo wasn't locked up, the car sat for a long time, but the guy did his best to protect the engine, hoses were capped off, carb inlet was covered. Totally sent me some pictures, I'd love to see another one of these setups and how they're run.

Mine is RLS30-012443 build date 11/73' (early) emerald green. Originally purchased in Oregon moved to California then Arizona now here on the East coast. Funny thing the original owner has the same last name as me. Back into the family!:surprised