Leaderboard

#187 is home safely. We'll sort it out this weekend. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

No vacuum leak, but rather a health check for the engine. You can very easily tell if you have a leaking valve, carb's out of sync, broken ring, bad timing, blown headgasket, etc. Please see below:

Stock it with catfish and bull frogs and live off the land!!!

For future reference. When I ran into this problem many years ago, I was told to set the engine so both #1 and #6 pistons were down and then stuff as much small diameter rope into #1 & #6 cylinders then hand turn the engine with the crank bolt. I had tried all the ways mentioned, but this was the one that got it off. Sent from my K88 using Classic Zcar Club mobile

My Dad says his wife is a good witch. I say know way, burn her at the stake!

As ZCON is quickly approaching and will be in Austin this year, a lot of the work I have been doing has been in preparation for the various events I will be attending. One event I am looking forward to is the parade lap at the Circuit of the Americas (COTA). Even though it will only be a parade lap, I am leaving no stone un-turned on the car as I do not want anything to spoil this opportunity. A few weeks ago I had noticed a very small amount of coolant coming out of the rear driver side of the engine block were a temp. sending unit had been installed. Wanting to resolve this I figured I would pull the sending unit and use one of my thousands of bolts to seal and plug it. Unfortunately that was not the case. Once I had a temp. sensor off I determined the previous owner used a piece brass pipe which was not the correct size or thread for the boss on the block. After trying a lot of different metric bolts, nothing I had fit correctly. A 12mm bolt was almost there but still had a little wiggle room. My research showed 13mm is pretty much obsolete so using an online calculator I determined 12.7mm = 1/2 inch. Could this be the only standard non-metric bolt on the entire car? I went Lowes and purchased a 1/2 inch bolt in both course and fine thread along with a cap screw in 1/2 inch fine thread since it was in the same drawer. After a quick test the 1/2 inch fine thread bolt was the winner. I tested the plug just for good measure, wrapped it in some yellow sealant tape, and installed it. JOB DONE! For anyone that needs to buy one of the cap screws, it is a Hillman brand fastener, model 880938, Lowes item 137329. That's it for now. I am ready for ZCON and looking forward to meeting many of you in person.

Hey Rich someone with more Zs in his driveway and garage than you. Congrats on getting 187 home safe and sound. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Congrats! That is a lot of Z's in the picture. Now I don't feel so bad about my garage and driveway.

The right question is... divorce or not divorce...

This is definitely sage advice! I completely agree and will take this approach. Looks like @Montezuma can set me up with a place to store it. This is starting to look possible.

I'd say more like 1971, if not even early 1972. Most of those drivers were assembled for a similar shoot with the photos published in 'Auto Sport Young' (a special edition of Auto Sport magazine) in early March 1971, and the difference in hairstyle/length is noticeable. They were pretty much all following a trend for longer hair at the time and I reckon your photo was taken later than that shoot.

This should remind all of the correct procedure to determine if she really is a witch:

Ask away, ill try to answer. I have what msa call the stage 3 kit 270/280 460 cam that's correct. /Andreas

Picked these up a couple weeks ago. Dyna Lite 14x6 Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thanks for doing this, Ziggy, but I have a question that you, or someone here may help me with. I believe my car had 6 tags in total, one on each lap belt, and a third on each shoulder harness. Mike Bs' picture above also shows a shoulder harness tag. Your offer is for a "set" of 4 tags, but didn't all 240zs come with 6? That being said, could you do 6 tags for me and I will gladly pay the pricing that you have established? I am also torn between using a date code of "12-1970" for my 1/71 production car instead of "1-1971" as it was said to have been made in the first half of January. Since I don't have the original tags on my car to confirm the actual date, any thoughts, anyone? Dan

The kit to move the choke lever mounting point from the underside (now broken) of the console to the trans tunnel will fix the floppiness in your lever. Lube everything including the cables and nozzles. With the choke cables disconnected, grab the end of the linkage the cable connects to and move it back and forth, mimicking the action of the choke cables, The nozzles should lower and raise smoothly with no hesitation or difficulty. Let us know what you find.

Beautiful picture of your car. Another castle with a moat! Americans would be riding jet skis around something like that you know. Now can you tell me if you put a Schneider 270/280 .460 cam kit in your car? I tagged Lumens the other day thinking it as him but I realize now it maybe was your car. I wanted to ask you a couple of questions, through private message. Thank you, Cliff

Thanks guys. It is an amazing job and I think I was fortunate to pick the specialty that suited me best but medicine (if done correctly) is more a religion than a career, requiring all your effort with very little respite. I've been at it for 33 years though and I've put myself on a "pre-retirement protocol" . I promised my kids I would retire by 60 which comes up in March of next year and I plan to honor my promise. I'm sure I'll miss surgery terribly and a lot of free time will be tough to manage but I'm sure working on my toys (cars, motorcycles, house, etc), maybe a new business venture, and spending time with the people I truly care for will take up a lot of it very pleasantly.

It is a cool job! It's actually the exact job I had planned for myself when I was younger...until I got about halfway through my undergrad major courses (physiology) and suddenly realized I didn't have the passion for it that my fellow pre-med students did. I just stuck with technology and ended up in health care anyway.

Summit Point Jefferson 500

Happier times...

At last, both rear panels welded in. Bout time! Did the passenger side this weekend. Pretty much the same process as I did the Drive side, except this time I used a shrinking disc on the Passenger side in some areas to lower the high spots, still has some wavy in it but not as bad as the driver side. I took a crap load of pictures from all angles for you guys to see based on the lighting. Some far and some close shots. The really close shots, you will see how uneven and wavy the welding zone is. I probably can get some more waves out with the shrinking disc and hammer and dolly the welds in some areas, but on a car like this, I am satisfied, not excited, but pleased enough to move on. Just take what I did and learn from it for the next project. I still need to work on my welding, as in laying the weld bead. Still trying to get the welding part figured out. Having gaps in the fitment doesnt help, so getting the fitment right may help me out more. Also I think I am still laying to much filler in the weld, though with good Butt Fitment, I wouldnt need much filler, which goes back to having good fitment from the start. Also on my list to buy are Body Filers to shave down the welds, like block sanding bondo. Starting to think now the angle sanding grinder I have is a no no if I want to achieve the invisible weld/smooth transitions, hehe. Another thing is the base metal seems to cave in on its self at the toe/edge of the weld. I am gonna have to work on how to eliminate that aswell. Its not under cut if thats what your thinking. I may have to play around with the pulser feature on my welder, could be I am spending too much time in the act of welding which means too much heat that is not needed. Also I wish I had done a better job on the profile of the crease. The dies I used were to sharp, needed a little bit of a radius to better match the original crease profile. Enjoy! Well Now its time to get the rear side markers shaved and the gas door shaved. Then get the flares mounted, panels trimmed and inner fender well made. Just never ends... Stay Tuned!

Upon starting college (1977, Wlikes University, Wilkes-Barre, Pa) my twin brother and I begged our parents for a "vehicle allowance" because he would be going to school 3 hours away in New Jersey and this would be our first "separation". We never thought it would work but it did! After a very long conversation to make sure we understood the value and importance of his gift, our amazingly generous Dad gave me a check for $15,000 to be split between my brother and I in the purchase of 2 new vehicles. This was just one more episode in which Dad showed his love and sacrificed his own perks to benefit one of us kids (and we're 5 boys!). We understood the message and never let him down. I had dreamed of owning a Z for about 3 years and knew that they were very close to 8 grand by 1977, which was more than the $7,500 allotted to me. I kept my desire for a Z secret and started a campaign to convince my brother that the best car for us was a Pontiac Trans Am. He would buy a white one, I would buy one in black. We visited dealers and worked out a deal for $6,700 each, fully loaded, out the door. We would have about $1,000 for "extras" . He fell for it (I still laugh at him for that) and I backed out at the last minute (as planned) and rushed to Fred Schuler's Datsun on King Street in Wilkes-Barre and bought my amazing yellow 280Zap for exactly $8,000 plus $500 for a technologically advanced AM/FM/cassette/CB radio by Clarion that would switch seamlessly between functions during those numerous 3 hour rides from Pennsylvania to New Jersey and back almost every weekend listening to Billy Joel's "The Stranger" and the soundtrack to "Star Wars". Never before or since have I enjoyed or loved a car more. I traded it for a 1980 280ZX once I started medical school but dreamed of driving a Z again for the last 20 years. Literally, I had a recurrent dream of driving my '77 yellow Z around town only to wake up when it would break down and nobody had the knowledge to work on them anymore ! A friggin' nightmare. I decided to hunt down a 1977 280Zap 4 years ago and read every forum I could find (thank you so much). I opted for a final year of S30 production May of '78 280Z in amazing condition and have immensely enjoyed driving and working on it with my 14 year old son who loves it and will eventually inherit it, closing the circle and paying it forward.

Me at 19 with my brand new 73 I loved that car Today's version

Spent the day with the Edmonton and Calgary Z crew and@zKars Here at the oldest hill climb in North America! Knox Mountain Kelowna BC

I was 23 when I bought my 1972 Z for a really great price of $4144. It was the most I had ever paid for a car that is now considered a classic. The car was in perfect condition when I got it. I still have the Z today with no plans to ever sell it. I turn 69 this year.. Then . Now Phil Smith