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UPDATE: - grinding the shift rod worked! 5th gear engages and works like a champ - replaced the bushings and shift pin with the kit from MSA (clear rubber bushings) - shifter feels so much better and no more vibrations at high RPM's - cruized home at 85 mph in 5th gear and felt so good Enjoyed a ribeye with my buddy after we got done (and a few beers of course) Cheers, y'all! Thanks again for your help. This site is a wealth of knowledge Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Hello there Z lovers and enthusiasts! My name is Wesley and I've been hanging out here for a little while and I have finally decided to create an account and join the fun. I've recently entered a position where I'm able to purchase my dream I am a Canadian resident located near Toronto. Sadly Canada's market doesn't have any affordable Z's in decent shape. SO, my reason of writing today is to ask a huge favour. I've found a 240z I'm ready to buy yesterday in Huntington Beach California. Everything checks out in the ad, however before I fly myself out and uHaul the car back home I'd love a second opinion. I was hoping there might be a local member willing to check the vehicle out for me. I will happily compensate your time and knowledge! Wether you'd like to exchange favours (no innuendo intended) or make a quick buck please do let me know. I'm crazy excited and serious about this 240! I would post the ad but seeing as I'm new here I should read the posting rules out before i potentially get myself into trouble! Please please please contact me through PM or chat, my number, or my email address (which i will provide personally to posters in the thread!) Thanks a ton for the read, this is a rather urgent post so I will probably be able to reply 24/7! Excuse my grogginess if you catch me asleep. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars/thunder-bay/1937-ford-sedan-deluxe-rat-rod/1252695568?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

Whoof! You have a previous owner's jimmy rigging to sort out. We can help but you need to get a wiring diagram first, that's what eveybodies gonna say. Play the game, you'll get answers you need. Best of luck.

IMO, to eliminate the obvious, (no offense to the Cap'n) a complete tuneup is the first thing to do. It should be done sooner rather than later. I had one of those high RPM misses years ago. I convinced myself that it had to be something beyond the obvious (apologies again) and after much head scratching and many w.t.f. moments, it was finally cured with new plugs.

Yes sir Sent from my SM-J320V using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Hi there, notWes, and welcome to the forum! I'd be happy to go check the car out for you. By chance, is it a '71 silver automatic? I'll shoot you a PM and we can chat. Gary norcal z in SoCal

I'm about 40 miles away from Huntington Beach, but as far as places to go, it's not so bad Can't make it out that far in the next few days, but I've been trying to get a couple days off next week and could probably make some time. Shoot me a PM if you're still looking for help and I'll see if I can swing something.

A V6 in an F1 car I long for the sound of those screaming V10s.

I custom made the wire set myself from bulk MSD 8.5mm wire as well as their boots and terminals. It was the best I could find and reviews on it online were excellent. If there is sufficient interest in this I might be interested in making it available to others on the forum as well. Mike.

@norcal z @New-to-240z @charliekwin

@Wick Humble The Z Community will be really excited about your HTRYDZC revisited Title. Your book has been invaluable to me and many, many others in our quest to restore these Z'z. It IS the definitive work on the subject. I can't tell you how many times I have wished for clearer photos though! Right now--- I want (hope/ wish/ will pay for) an autographed copy as soon as it is released. So glad to see you "name drop" Steve as a collaborator! What a great combination,--- you two! He is my "go to" guy out there in the "Land o' Plenty" for hard to find Z items and has helped me numerous times. We chat by phone every few months. Steve clued me in on his projects some time back, but I am "sworn to silence" even though you mentioned it. I would say he has one in particular that is the "project of a lifetime". Thanks Wick, for everything! Jim D. "Zup"

I am refurbishing my halfshafts and would like to know what people are using for lubrication of the ball and spacer splines inside the sleeve yokes. The manual calls for MIL G2108 or G 10924 grease. Has anyone tried a CV joint grease. It seems a bit thin but might be better for sliding friction. Also seeing some minor scuffing on the spline surfaces and some minor circumferential scratches on some of the nylon spacers. Is this normal. I have used some fine polishing paper on the splines to remove minor imperfections.

Thank you everyone, my like button run out today, sorry I could not hit all of them, tomorrow I will ! Like Alan said, Datsun Netherland advised a lot , and Mr.Takei is the important engineer about this. He talked about this in some magazines, we can read it with cross reference techniques.I will refer the articles later. Kats

You do the "at" symbol first. @grannyknot

The ball just presses into the base housing. It has some splines machined into it to bite a little into the base, but it's just pressed in. Just pull straight out with enough force and the ball will come out of the base. It's been a number of years since I did that job, and the details are fading, but I think I just grabbed the round part of the ball with some soft jaws in a vice and then tapped the base with a plastic mallet until it came free from the ball. I do remember that I used a little epoxy on the splines when I put it back together just to take up the gaps and be sure it stayed together. Splined fits like that are usually not designed to be used more than once. So about your method... I toyed around with similar ideas with a slot in a piece of something that would keep the ball from pulling through, and gave up because I had to either a) make the slot big enough to fit over the shaft of the ball, or 2) make the reinforcement out of something thin enough to bend like you did. Problem is I was worried if I made it out of something thin, it would just bend under the force of use. What I did NOT think of, was your great idea of using the screw posts for additional support for the reinforcing part. Using those posts to support it should keep even a thinner material from opening up again under use. Much simpler than what I did, and probably works just as well!

The car has sat untouched basically for the last year. I did not have a good place to start such a big project so I bought a new house with lots of garage space PLUS a 24x24 shop garage in the back of the property. I am running a gas line to it this spring, insulating and finishing the inside so I can hook up the furnace for year round workshop use. Once that is done, the teardown will begin! Parts are starting to accumulate too.... A friend is doing a similar resto and has donated his L28 and four spd from a 76 280 that he will not be re-using as he is going with an newer motor (RB25 or VQ35). I will use this block as a spare to rebuild for more fun later... I have sourced another 5 spd tranny from a 78 Z and an R200 3.90 rear end. I also have a P90 head that I will probably shave and reuse on the spare block when I rebuild it. For now, I will re-use my stock L28 and do a mild rebuild with flattop pistons for a higher compression on the N47 head. That's the plan for now... The body will be getting a complete frame up resto with new floor pans etc. Can't wait to tear it all apart! Who knows what I will find...