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I now have New Rally Clock Oscillator box by Zclocks. This photo is the first one out and currently taking orders., It's a plug and play if you have your own circuit board or I can supply a complete working oscillator . Contact me at :ron@ zclocks.com for pricing and info.

Thank you everyone for looking at my ZG and the video of the test drive. Today I show you my S20 parts, a racing option starter motor and a racing alternator.They are lighter than the normal ones. The alternator has a big pulley, the starter has an aluminum body. Kats

This doesn't make any sense. In our planning meeting tonight we covered the hotel bookings so far and there were definitely a number of rooms left at the Hilton. I'll look into this tomorrow and see what's up and will let you know. Mike.

The need to extract my rear strut inserts had me facing the same challenge as many other owners needing to replace the struts on their classic Z, removing the dreaded gland nuts. More often than not they are seized on due to years of use. Worse, it seems to be the best method for getting them off by using two opposing pipe wrenches can also be the most damaging. I went through this same exercise with my 1972 lime green 240z several years ago and vowed this time would be different. I remember seeing an workshop manual showing how these were installed at the factory using a special made socket and wrench. I searched for a long time to find an 8-point socket of any kind that was 51mm or 2 inches in diameter. I was hoping to find an axle socket but after many days and nights of Googling and searching I came up empty handed. So I purchased a 12 point 2" socket made by Stanley on eBay for $21.50 shipped. I verified it fit as I could easily push down on the strut piston. The 3/4" drive opening was already close to being big enough. After about 30 minutes of enlarging the hole using my "worth its weight in gold" Makita rotary tool, it would now slip over the piston. Next was to grind some flats on the socket so I could use a pipe wrench to turn it. Threw it on and with one good turn, the glad nut was loose! Once I off I verified there was no damage to the strut tube or the gland nut itself. You can see in the last picture with the gland nut in the socket that the corners are not exactly aligned in to the socket. I am a little lucky as the entire suspension on my car was rebuilt in the past few years. Why the strut insert has already failed on stock springs is another story. If your gland nut is really stuck there is a decent chance the socket would slip. Going down one size may help with this. Anyway, that was my solution, it worked, and thought I would share.

That's exactly what I'm looking for! They sure look good in that ohoto Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Its called the shell game.

New photos now that it is back from upholstery shop. Reaching final stages. Wonder what that L28 turbo will bring on BAT? Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Since it vents crankcase pressure, I'd fix it before I'd drive it plugged like that. You could blow out front or back seals. You're lucky that is what keeps blowing off.

^ Yes I had that problem with a 240Z race car that we raced way back in Bell Bottom days. Changed transmissions from an early style ( F4W71A ) to late style ( F4W71B ) . Kept popping out of 3rd gear when ever you lifted the throttle. Turned out the big rubber shifter boot had to be changed as well. Slightly different design and the early boot was putting just enough pressure against the new style shift lever to pop it out of gear. It took surprisingly little force when the revs and loads matched just right.

You might consider leaving the rubber boots and leather off when you put it back together so that you can see the shifter action. Maybe the trim pieces are getting stuck in the gaps. It's the stuff you don't think about that isn't obvious until you think about it. Did the transmission shop mention anything specific? Did they check the roll pins in the shift forks, and the bearings in the adapter plate? A really good shop would have a check list to show what they inspected, and even a separate list specific to a problem, like shifting. Just saying, "we didn't find anything" doesn't mean they looked in the right places. Sometimes the good shops have been good for so long that they think they're infallible.

Finally got around to install some under dash lighting with LED's. Not exactly finished yet but I'm glad to address the black abyss issue when something fly's off the passenger seat and lands in the "wait until daylight" area. It'll be one less flashlight to carry. The bad part is now it'll show how dirty the floor is .

Two can play this game

I'll drop my car off to you on Friday. I have some rust bubbles on the rear hatch deck, and could use a small patch in the driver's foot well. I'd hate to see you having any free time to relax, Chris All kidding aside, I really can't wait to see how the car looks when you get it back!!

I tend to agree with this. I have a make shift booth but I still get some trash in my paint and have flaws. I will probably cut and buff when I'm done which will remove most of them. It is just really hard to get great professional results in a small shop with out a good booth and high end paint guns...

Pfff. Look at that shoddy paint matching. Hood looks like bare metal and those scoops are obviously photoshopped .....

So we had our weekly ZCON planning meeting this PM and I've confirmed that parking at the hotel is included in the room charge. There should be no additional charge for parking at the hotel. Mike.

I have a 72 shell that I can ship over as well as a 77

I don't think I've seen one connected to the valve cover? Always the intake or balance tube. A picture would nice.

pencil me in for 2 may long weekends from now, @wheee! hoping to have something to drive by then!

my 2 cents. i think the seam sealer is the better of the 2. it will flex with the metal as where the fiberglass wont. if the metal moves at all, the fiberglass will eventually seperate from the metal and allow water in.

$100.00.....Flat fee....he uses paypal. You email the pic you like....he emails it back in 2 to 3 days,

GLAND, NUTS and TONGUE? Chicka dow now...