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I had the winning bid. This is my first Z car. After looking for a couple of years, I figured I'd better jump in before I couldn't afford it anymore. I'm excited to get it home and get it ready for summer if this damn rain will ever stop!

I thought this was pretty funny. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Why don't you just build a second car, it's all there Looks like a real treasure trove.

I had been watching the car for a few days. I was actually down in LA this weekend looking at a different car. I drove down yesterday morning, inspected the car and drove it. I found some issues that I wasn't expecting, so I asked for the night to think it over. Didn't sleep much of course. It was such a good car for me in so many ways, but in the end we couldn't make a deal work. So we left LA and I spent the whole trip trying to decide whether to bid on this car which I did when I got home. It was a long, eventful weekend to say the least. I really have to thank Carl Beck. He was very generous with his time, giving me some great advice and guidance. Resources like this site are truly invaluable tools. I know I'll be making great use of it and lean heavily on the wisdom of it's members as I work on this car.

I'm probably the youngest one on this to be restoring a Z at 20yrs old. It has been my dream to own one. Nonetheless i am humbled to be around people who know so much. I will continue with updates on her restoration but i will also ask for help for i don't know everything. Thanks [emoji1591] Space_cowboy '74 260z

And I'm the Gangster of Love! Yes, welcome to the club. Good to hear a young man with an eye for a classic car.

Looks like a very solid starting point! Good luck and make sure you read all the blogs on here for tips on the restoration/rebuild steps. It will save you time and money... lot's of it!

They are not progressive. My ride quality is pretty good. I have no complaints. Springs are stiffer than stock, for sure. I haven't had any issues over bumps thus far. I have urethane bump stops but in my somewhat limited experience I don't think I have ever bottomed them out hard. Overall I am pretty happy... but you may have trouble finding them now as many places that listed them (ebay & brandcarparts) stopped stocking them a while back. Maybe they have more now but I don't know. I got them because I wanted a small amount of lowering, to not deal with the possible uneven problems some have with progressives, and a slightly higher spring force for more composed handling. In my research of them initially I didn't read anyone that was unhappy with the harshness (or lack of) in the ride. I unfortunately do not have miles on the car with the stock springs to offer a comparison.

I found them at the dealership below, but I think it was the last set back in Oct 2016. Paul Barnett Nissan Address: 845 Brookway Blvd, Brookhaven, MS 39601 Phone: (601) 833-9124

I would have loved to have bought this car. However, I have two '71 projects that I've invested in and at the present time, I'm not in a position to buy another 240Z. But trust me, I was very tempted! Congrats to KStewart! You have just purchased one of the most original 240Zs that has been for sale in recent memory. I see that you joined ClassicZcars in July of 2016 and it looks like you only made one bid and it was at the very end of the eBay auction. Just curious, did you know already know about the car or did you first see it in this thread?

For that particular 280, just from the few pics, IMO I wouldn't offer more than 1500 tops if all the planets were in line. And that's if if ran and could drive it home. Mainly because you would spend at least 7K just to get it safely back on the road, plus whatever else it will require, interior suspension, brakes. The list goes on…… and then there's body and paint. As far a looking for a project Z (they are all projects by the way, even if they are "finished") a lot depends on what year and condition. Series one 240s all original with matching #'s currently go for the most money. Everything after that kind of works on a sliding scale. 260's seem to be worth less even though they were only sold in the US for one year. There are still quite a few 280's out there that are in fair shape. ZX's can be even cheaper but the prices have climbed on all the the Z's lately. I don't know where you are posting from but location also makes a difference. West coast cars seem to be reasonable to us east coast folks just for the rust factor alone. Wheee! just gave you some ball park figures that seem about right. Keeping those #'s in mind you can approach your future Z with two thoughts in mind. You can bring one back from the crusher and get the satisfaction of saving a Z and it will become "your" baby. A lot of us have done that. Or you could search for one that is mostly done. You'll still find things to fix/restore but the work will be significantly less. There are quite a few I've seen in great condition around the 8-15K range that I know the builder/restorer are losing money on. Much like if I were to have to sell mine right now . Spend your conscience and what you are comfortable with wallet wise. If you get infected like us, it won't matter in the long run.

I'd be single if I bought it!! My wife would have said get out!

Who bought it? It was hard to not bid on this at the price. I watched it in the final 9 minutes and thought of what it would be like to have another Z and be single again. I decided at the last second not to bid.

First, determine what kind of car you want. A daily driver (fair condition) with no repairs or minimal work required (5-$15000 investment), a light restoration project (15-$25,000 investment in parts and labour), or a full restoration or restomod on a rotisserie (20-$60,000+). Be prepared for spending real money AFTER the initial purchase! Spend more now and less later OR spend less now and a lot more later...

Worked on the drivers side fender this weekend. Removed fender and cleaned up the inside. Wire wheeled and sanded rust areas near bottom of fender and upper attach points. Cleaned up the upper air box area and then sprayed the area along with the fender. Also installed new foam seals and then re-installed the fender. The whole area came out very nice. Spent some more time detail sanding the engine bay in the nooks and crannies. I think I am finished with the sanding on the passenger side. I also sanded the roof and part of the rear hatch. I still have some more engine bay sanding to do and then the drivers side along with the hood, cowl and headlight buckets. So, I am pretty far along here. I am hoping to have this ready for the paint shop in two to three weeks. Also found another yellow car part, the drivers side turn signal valence. Here are some pics of the progress

I agree with the others. Probably the lack of pics is due to hide a lot of missing pieces (even the horns are missing). Certainly not a 4K car. That being said, I've seen worse. It could be restorable but I would have to see it in person and offer much, much less. I'd keep looking.

I'd want more pics of the car before I could even consider placing a bid, offer. Under carriage, the wiring issue, proof of turbo, etc, etc. Just looks like a parts car to me. Missing too much. Note the hole where the EGR goes.

Rockauto sell a pick-up from the manufacture Standard. P/N: LX-507. I used that in mine.

Took the Z out today for a few miles today. 74 degrees and Sunshine in GA today. February. go figure. Right off the bat got challenged by a Honda Civic breadbox (83'-87') with a dangling muffler. PA LEEZ! In all fairness, it did have some kind of LED lights zip tied to the grill.

Thanks so much! That is exactly what we need to finish off the exhaust manifold. I will be ordering that plug and new studs later tonight. Thanks, John-Lugoff, SC.