Leaderboard

So another project during this off season was to do something better with my brake booster. I took both the newly purchased "rebuilt" unit, and my old failed original boosters apart and reassembled one unit using the best parts from the two, plus a couple new parts I made to replace some rusty bits. Here's the final unit. Reassembled, painted, and ready to put back in the car: Some of the internal parts were really crappy, so I made some stainless replacements. I used stainless steel for everything with the exception of the threaded output shaft tip. I reused the original tip because it's hardened and I didn't feel like dealing with the heat treating. Besides, it doesn't ride against the vacuum seal, so even if it's not perfect, it doesn't affect operation. Here's what I made: Here's a pic of the smooth stainless output shaft sticking through the vacuum seal. This has GOT to seal better than the rusty crusty versions I had from both the boosters. My idle will thank me: As a bonus... My PO had painted the booster that came with the car, and I found the original sticker hiding under a thick coat of paint. Thankfully the paint didn't stick too well to the plastic sticker, and I was able to chip most of it off. It's not perfect, but it looks "appropriate" for the rest of the car. I haven't put it back on yet. Anyone have a good reference pic showing the location of where the sticker should go?

Finally finished the welding today So glad, feels like I have been welding all winter. P/S rail was pretty banged up so had to do some surgery to get it to fit inside the Baddog rail, I'm sure after I look at it for a while I will pull the welder back out and start filling in and fine tunning but for now have to clean the shop and get ready for primer prep.

I thought this was pretty funny. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Looks like it's priced for the turbo. Front end looks bad, bumpers gone, only showing one door panel and one seat (makes you wonder). No idea where you're looking or where you are, or where the car is, so advice will be limited, re rust. I got a complete 1976 car with minimal rust, non-running, for $1000. Got 20,000 miles out of the engine once I got it going. If you're just looking for a sound body, there might be better options out there. Also notice that that's a 280Z fuel rail, not a 280ZX fuel rail. Could be that all it really has is a TURBO valve cover. Beware.

I use Yahoo all the time for my CSP311 and I have added fun of cross model searching to find parts. In my experience of using it, the non-vented set up is less often found for sale on there. Obviously its not a barometer of availability and there are other routes to find them but it is the most easy. Lucky you have Kats helping you to navigate.

There's a lot that's fishy here: strangely cropped photos and photos that don't show much, what tuning needs to happen here? (i.e. does it have an aftermarket ECU?), and a missing key (that's kinda suspicious). I'd probably keep looking.

Pretty darn close, ask me how I know. My motor is very close except for the cam (Rebello custom vs Isky) and Dave estimates it a 285hp+ on SU's and he claims 300+ on triples.

Congratulations! Grannyknot Motor Corporation. GMC

I put new wheel cylinders and shoes on the orange 72......she blew a driver side cylinder a couple weeks ago.....cheap Datsun parts....only lasted 45 years!

One of the "tricks" that guys used to do in combination with the turbo AFM was to put a small potentiometer for variable resistance in line from the coolant temperature sensor so the could adjust the richness a bit. My personal feeling is that you're better off stock.

It's also available from Rockauto if it's not at a store near you. Rockauto has stepped up their shipping speed for most of their parts.

It looks like the pick up has failed or you have another break in the wiring to the pick up. They don't cost much and you have already repaired a faulty soldering job on the wiring to this one. I would replace it with the Autozone unit.

If you're sure that you're measuring resistance through the pickup coil itself then that $30 Autozone coil is the way to go. They don't fail often but they do fail. Didn't even know that you could get those at Autozone. http://www.autozone.com/ignition-tune-up-and-routine-maintenance/pick-up-coil/duralast-pick-up-coil/80242_0_0

Here's the motor as it sits now at Rebello Racing.