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Hi guys, I had an hour or so to do some thinking on this issue and here's what I've decided to do. I don't think it's fair to censor individual posts. From now on, I am going to avoid removing individual posts. Instead, if a thread has gone "bad" (like this one), I will reserve the right to remove or lock the ENTIRE thread. There will be exceptions to this case I'm sure, but, this should make it easier on all of us. What does this mean? It means YOU now have control. If you don't think a topic should be removed, then it's up to YOU to keep it on topic (avoiding flame wars). If someone is causing a problem and standing out, report the post to me. The more complaints I receive the faster I will give a warning to that user. OK? I have re-enabled the posts that were hidden in this thread, to remain as an example.

i dropped the head off today at the machine shop. guy was surprised at how good of shape it is in. $75 to have it all checked out, then go from there

Thanks. MSA didn't say it fits for SUs but I guess I'll try that.

Isn't that interesting to have the list of tools document!? I don't recall ever seeing one of those. The crescent wrench is still in the bag! Fabulous! We have had discussions in the past about the tools. I finally found my picture collection, probably all from the archives but I can't find the threads! Oh bother! I wish I could tell you more but these pictures should give you an idea of what you may encounter.

Cool. Good luck. Actually, my suggestion would be to put the car back to where it was when it ran good and then take some pics for us. Then we can discuss emissions changes from that point?

CO is right, don't move too fast. Collected the basics above. If you mean "starts out' from a cold engine, then the idle behavior could be your AAR working correctly as the engine warms up, with a vacuum leak that causes the low idle after the engine warms up and the AAR closes. Could also be your timing is retarded now and you didn't reset idle speed (idle speed drops as timing is retarded). Find your service manual here, and use the Engine Tuneup, Engine Fuel, and Emissions chapters to get things right. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/9-factory-service-manuals/ Forgot to say - the sensor will work fine even with a leak. Just fix the leak, not the sensor.

I wouldn’t be ready to condemn the BCDD quite yet, and I am confused by a couple things in your original post... First thing is that there is only one externally visible connection to the BCDD, and that is an electrical one. There are a couple vacuum connections made to the BCDD, but none of them are externally visible. They are all made internally to the throttle body and are not visible without peering into the throat of the throttle body. So when you say "the BCDD was disconnected and lines running to and away from it were blocked off", if you're talking about some vacuum lines being capped... Those vacuum lines originate from the throttle body, but despite how close in proximity they are to the BCDD, neither of them have anything to do with it. One of those vacuum lines should be connected to your distributor and carbon canister, and the other vacuum line is used for the EGR system. So if you're having troubles after messing with those vacuum lines, it's not the BCDD's problem. If you are talking about the electrical connection to the BCDD, that connection is a kind of "dead man switch" such that when that wire supplies power to the BCDD, the BCDD is deactivated and should have no impact. But if that wire was disconnected, your BCDD was active at all times. Second thing is about you hearing a vacuum leak after you turn the car off... As soon as the engine stops turning, the manifold vacuum goes away, and there are two places where that vacuum is "stored" while the engine isn't running. Those two places are in the HVAC system, and in the power brake booster. Both of those systems should have a check valve in series with them to prevent that vacuum from bleeding off, but I'd start looking there.

And the cam journals are staggered in such a way that they go through the cam bearings at the same time so as to leave room once they are through to slightly move the cam to avoid hitting and scratching the cam bearing. Removing and installing a cam is the most potentially dangerous time there as it is SO easy to scratch the bearing surfaces, very hard cam metal, very soft bearing metal. Beers only to be enjoyed after the job.

e How ironic. If you used the search function for more than just “hoovering” and reposting other people’s photos you would see that Alan has shared quite a bit of the information he’s acquired over the years. If not for people like Alan and Kats obtaining, translating, and sharing the information they’ve gathered and obsrved first hand, we’d know a lot less about the family of S30 cars and how they differed across models and markets around the world. Why don’t you post in Kat’s great Datsun 240Z vs Fairlady Z432 thread how you think his car is just an overpriced 240Z with girly named badges? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/23900-datsun-240z-vs-fairlady-z432/ Several people in this thread have made great comparisons to put in context why a Z432 costs so much more than a NA 240Z, but you ignore that and focus on the horse power specs and make unrealistic comparisons to modern cars. Clearly you don’t get what makes a Z432 special or appreciate it for what it is. I don’t think that you speak for the majority of people on this site (at least I am hopeful that you don’t) and you certainly don’t speak for all of North America, so please quit making broad sweeping statements like you have been.

Hey Mike, I very subtly suggested a short while ago that somebody keep their opinions about China to themselves and not troll the forum for xenophobia and I got an Abusive Behavior warning. HS30 calls Blue and grannyknot "dimwits" directly and that's not abusive. That's where the bias charge comes from. You have subconscious favorites. Dimwits is still there. It's another name for stupid or dumb, in case it's not clear. I think that HS30 gets on the forum just to be an arrogant a s s (that's American for arse). All of the bad in this thread started from his name-calling. There's your problem. Be consistent.

That engine stainless steel bolt kit from Zcardepot.com was very nice for $99, I forgot about that. It has all your exhaust manifold studs with proper lock nuts included. Everything is separately packaged and labeled, very nice. He may have a bearing kit too, I like the way he does things by getting everything together for you and selling it all together as a kit. I would also buy some Aviation Gasket Sealer and a bottle of Anti-Seize Thread Lubricant from Advance Auto with the discount. If you have a store close by, use the "ship to store" option at checkout and pick it up there. No shipping charges. I wasn't too happy with the felpro rear main crank seal and those flat side seals and nails. The second motor i bought a Nissan seal and the side seals, way better in my opinion. I've got those part numbers in a file I can post later.

I can't speak to ownership of #13, but in my experience, I've found the opposite largely to be true. Cars that were once owned by known individuals knowledgeable about the marque tend to be worth a percentage more. Cars owned by celebrities and dictators alike can be worth double. And don't get me started on the many multiples over retail that people will pay for a car that was once owned by Steve McQueen.

Thanks for the response everyone. It has really been fun (and educational) putting this all back together. I will probably take a break from the car restorations for a bit once the JCCS is past. I need to get going on some overdue house maintenance items. Not nearly as fun as working on the cars but very necessary. Thanks again, Rich

I have a 12,500 BTU I'm hoping to put in the back window this weekend. With a pedestal fan in front helping move the air it should work okay if I turn it on early enough and keep the doors down.

I'd swear you could strike a match off one of the lobes on the Schneider cam I just bought. The Delta resurfaced rockers were a little smoother though.