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Who's going to pop out their rally car and hit the road?

I think that I actually have a 76 that is steel, and a 78 that's aluminum. Either way, good luck with it. I'd use a file rather than a grinder, just for the precision. Manning's last chance. Got to root for the old man.

any updates on these? i'm interested in a set

Patcon and Siteunseen.....you guys crack me up! I love my Gator....I mean really love it. The Canadians make a damned good Gator......I do use it for deer hunting....it goes anywhere!

If I had a Gator my kids would use it to bring firewood up to the house and we would use it to get deer up from the deer stand. It's a little easier than a trailer behind the garden tractor...

I don't see any difference in how the 240 or 280 circuits work. The HL switch on the combo turns on power to the pair of fuses in the fuse box (L and R), which then power the common terminal of each head light through the R and RY wires. Then the dimmer switch grounds either the High or Low beam side to decide which is on at any time. The only true difference is the dedicated HL fusible link on the 280z. The only slight year related difference is in the early 70-71 switch where the HL combo switch acts on the GROUND side of the circuit, at the center common line to the dimmer switch, while the battery + side power is hardwired to the two fuses in the fuse box. The dimmer still grounds either the HB or LB side of the head lights. Even the harness wire color codes out to the head lights stay the same across all years. I'm pretty sure the early issues were totally about the lack of connector availability. While there other ways to approach this problem, including the one you mention to just put a relay at the HL combo switch contacts, Dave's harness that puts the relays way out at the headlight connectors, and moves the power supply directly to the battery, is the best overall solution for one very important reason. It removes high current requirement (and the resulting voltage drops and heat buildups and failures) from ALL switch AND harness connections AND fuse box fuses areas in one fell swoop. All components (switches, fuses, connectors) are reduced to relay trigger level power levels, which even the worst condition stuff is capable of handling. The only areas the user has to improve, clean or replace might be the pin contacts at the head light connectors where the new harness splices in.

5 % import duty!! Lucky UK bastards ; ) I think we pay 16-20% here in Sweden. ( or we are supposed to do, but there's ways to cut those costs )

When you live on "Southfork Ranch" like JR, you need a Gator.

Thanks for the pics Guy. I was wondering how bad you got hit. So far, our winter hasn't been too bad. I've only had to shovel the walk once and the snow blower hasn't come out yet.

I think you will definitely be fine, I only had to slightly adjust the camber on my rears just a little bit to clear my tires. I could go more if I needed. Im very happy with the coilovers, they give me the adjust-ability I needed and the stance that I wanted.

Cliff, try to find a set of the steel rails. They are there to keep the pan flat and spread the pressure from the bolts and you are likely to have leaks without them. If I had a set, I'd be happy to send them to you, but it would be spring before I could get to my spare engines to pull a set. I'm sure somebody here has a set laying around. The longer bolts do go where the steel rails go.

No, no, no all bolts must seat on the pan with simple finger tightening. Sorry I don't remember where the longer bolts go. I suggest you remove all the bolts, sort out the longer bolts, and systematically insert them into each hole. If one doesn't seat with finger tightening, remove it and move on to the next hole. Once you have seated all the long bolts, install the remaining short bolts in the remaining holes. The holes are tapped to different levels. A shorter bolt will fit in a deeper hole but not vice versa. BTW I pulled out Tom Monroe's book to double check the torque specs. On Pg 132 oil pan bolts are set to 4-7 ftlbs (0.6-1.0kgm) or 48-84 inchlbs. (and that ain't much).

I don't think that pic has been altered. I think the front is lighter than the rear and if you got the nuts, you can move it like those three guys in the pic. At this stage in life I wouldn't want to be any of those three guys, but back in my youth, I would have been any of them. Of course, that may be why I couldn't be one of them anymore. My spine aint what it used to be, and doing stuff like that in the past is probably why.

If it's a rust free car then there will be people interested in the UK, www.pistonheads.com is a good site to advertise on, be prepared to put plenty of pictures on of the vulnerable rust areas, if someone is going to import then they'll need as much information as possible, best of luck. Deoending on on condition it could be worth up to £20K, however there'll be around $1800 or more from Hawaii for shipping and then 5% import duty when it lands in the UK so bear that in mind.

Good to hear from you again Sara, so glad to hear your partner is doing well. We will all support you in anything you need, just let us know what's needed. I know I'm new, but I can speak for all I think, as this wonderful family has helped me so much. But you were the one who took me under your wings, and got me started. I thank you so much for everything, as I know the others do. Nothing but good comments about you! God bless you and your partner... Jai

Well, not laughing but a big smile as least. Get a Subaru with dedicated winter tires and there aren't too many storms that can stop you. Be safe guys. Chris

I used Tom Monroe's book reference as well. Yes, I used a circular pattern after running the bolts down finger tight. BTW I just checked the Harbor Freight website. Even without a coupon, using the usual 20% off, you can walk out of at store with a 1/4" torque wrench for under $20. If you watch for coupons, maybe only half that.

Been making a little progress on some stuff while I am still waiting to get my trans back. Installed poly steering rack bushings and cleaned up the whole rack. Then I opened up and cleaned up the intake manifold and header ports a bit to match the enlarged head ports. Hopefully getting my trans back this week...will install engine/trans then this weekend or next most likely. IMG_5975 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_5970 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_5974 by blodi, on Flickr Soon!........ IMG_5976 by blodi, on Flickr

I like my headlight covers, they fit nice on silver cars. You should start hunting for a set.

A friend of mine built one out of square channel and angle iron. It works good and mounts to the factory bumper shocks on the 280... A little high for centre of gravity but manageable.

Here's a pic of mine. I forget the name but it's a pretty good one. Put the car on jack stands, attach rotisserie to bumper mounts and then raise each end of the rotisserie. It works very well. The brackets are meant for Mopars but I drilled an extra hole in the front mounts and made adapters for the rear. Chuck

sleep well little ones... Don't let the rust bugs bite

Sleepy Time.......at least till April.

Here's my other Mopar. It's a 1970 Plymouth Road Runner, 440, 6bbl, 4-speed 4.10 Dana, air grabber, Hemi Orange car. Repainted back in the early 1980 and had a vinyl top installed. It's all numbers matching and has no rust. Chuck

Wow, what an overwhelming response to the thread! It's so good to hear from everyone even with the good and bad. We are a small niche community and it doesn't go without notice if you're gone. I'm so glad that we moved to this new software and have this new ability to call people back to check in. @FastWoman may need help with her car in VA, so hopefully we have some people in the area who can help her out. Cancer is a bad thing and most of us past 40 have had some exposure be it with a friend, coworker, or relative. There are others we are missing and have lost. My best wishes and prayers go out to all of you. We started this club around people, and we will keep it that way. Thanks for being a part of this fun place.

Here are my latest two. A 2002 Mini Cooper S and a 1970 Plymouth AAR 'cuda 4-speed. Chuck

I see the little man in the reflection off the door, he's liking that! Me too.

I agree....My friend decided to ship all the parts and put nothing in the car. It's done and ready to come over....

My wife had this made for my Z garage.......

Here's the Mikuni PHH Manual for anyone who needs it. Mikuni PHH Manual.pdf