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Last summer I flew 1000 miles to a town I had never visited before to spend a long weekend with a number of Z car people I had never met. Heck... I even jumped blindly into cars with some of them and their wives!

Thursday was the monthly meeting for the Georgia Z Club. I use the club meetings as "Drive Your Z to Work" days, weather permitting (and sometimes even if I know the Z might get rained upon). The weather was pretty good, considering it's January, so I was in the Z car. I received one thumbs up on the drive in. That always feels good. On the drive home, I heard the driver next to me honk his horn. I turned to look, and he also gave a thumbs up. Then a little while down the road he got behind me, flashed his lights, and briefly turned on his right turn signal. I figured that he wanted to talk or get a better look at my car. I turned into the next shopping center, and he followed. He started off saying that he used to own 7 Z cars. He was active in the local Z scene 20 years ago, but as life changes happened, his Z collection went away. He told me that when he saw mine, he had to get a closer look. We chatted for a while, and I gave him a card for the club. I told my wife about the incident when I got home. She was surprised that I pulled over. I guess I lead a charmed life that I was confident about the other guy's intentions.

The surprising part is that they let you into their cars.

So here's a picture of both the 1st and current generation of our single point jack plates. The left side front of the car has a jackstand under it to allow the header/collector to slide in (tomorrow's chore). If you look closely you can see the small 1st gen and to the right the current plate which is being held up by a magnet. Looking even closer you can see my reflection. I'm down on one knee and in a standing position you can't see the lip of the plate unless you are more than 20 or so feet away. You might also see the very small flare lip on the rear wheel arc.

By the way, now that I'm working less I may actually remember to send you the light sockets you've been wanting.

The reason you are six thousand dollars in and still have problems is you just randomly try things!!!! If you want to fix it without wasting money pay attention and take the advise that is given...these aren't hard things to do. My ten year old daughter could do it with a little direction...

I am still mad at you for getting those sweet dark grey panaorts

What about proper coolant line connections and the thermostat? Too easy?

its a 1987 n/a 300zx. It has 160000km on it. This was a one owner vehicle. The owner bought it from Edmonton in may of 1987. He babied this car well always taking it to the dealership for service. It has had the suspension timing belt and clutch changed all at 100000km. In fact the last time he serviced it was in November of 2015 when he took it to the dealership and had the entire fuel system changed because old gas sat in the tank. Its a great car but it isn't perfect. The issues it has are minor though. The headliner is falling out from the back. Rear windshield wiper sprayer doesn't want to spray. The radio antenna's gear is stripped so it won't go up anymore. (Previous owner gave me the parts to fix it) and the temperature gauge is out on the digital dash. That's all the issues it has. There is no rust on this car which is quite a shock as this is Calgary. This car cost me 2000$ CAD which i think is a good deal. I've already posted on the forum and got some wonderful responses so I am excited to be a part of the classic z community.

If you guys buy from ZcarDepot, can you let them know you are a frequent member here? m

I run 2 regulators. I have a Sharpes dryair system where I regulate down to about 50-60 psi and then I have a small inline gauge at the gun and regulate that down to where it sprays the way I want. Nix's question referring to tip size is important too. Primers don't flow well through smaller tips. The P sheets will also make tip suggestions for their products. FWIW I would think 20 psi is too low...you need to regulate right at the gun because there is pressure loss in the hose...

What is the brand and model spray gun that you are using and which size nozzles? for primer I use a cheap HF gun with 1.8 and for paint I use a Iwata's LPH400 1.4

Based on my experiences... Don't use Bondo brand. Go to a paint shop and buy a good filler. Spray some black sandable primer and then a gray sandable primer. Don't use spray cans because they don't sand well and block up the sandpaper. Buy good paper (Norton). Use EuroDat's process of sanding and you'll see high spots in black and low spots in gray. The tape line trick works well too. Good luck! Chuck

I have not seen the youtube film from eatwood. I have not seen a powder treatment for this work. After filling minor repair work and skin coating with filler I give it a coat of spray putty and then I use a rattle can and give it a light dust coat of black. That way I can see where the high and low spots are when I block sand it. Im absolutly not a speacialist on the subject, but it works for me. I have some photos of my spoiler. It was primed with plastic primer than a coat of spray putty and a rattle can. Sanded back and then primed for the top coat. Its not perfect, but a lot better than just painting it. Another trick I learnt when sanding lines along the side of the car is to tape the line and sand to it. Then change over by taping the section you sanded and sanding the other side. Gives you nice straight lines.

I'm no Bob Sharp, not even John Morton, or even Jim Fitzgerald. Just run hard enough to break suspension brackets.

Here you go